[Che]

What's the best way to deal with this rust problem? I've knocked all the loose scale out and the rust seems under control, but the holes/divots are bare metal and need sorting.



The worst part is this - the flange that holds the rubber weather strip.




Is this repairable or is it too far gone? If bog is the best solution I might move this car along

[joel]

ive seen stuff like this in utes, and they have just cut out the whole floor and welded in sheet metal with a few folds in it, depends how handy you are with body work i spose.

[JrZook]

che_guitarra wrote:

The worst part is this - the flange that holds the rubber weather strip.




Is this repairable or is it too far gone? If bog is the best solution I might move this car along

The flange is the simplest bit. Cut the flange off and then rivet down a nice piece of 25x2 or 3mm alloy strip to it. That's how I did mine.

[royce]

rust cvonvertor and glue the strip on, its how I did mine

the floor looks like its started under the panel though, thats hard to fix

[Che]

joel wrote:

ive seen stuff like this in utes, and they have just cut out the whole floor and welded in sheet metal with a few folds in it, depends how handy you are with body work i spose.

It's only rusting on the flat of the panel, so it could potentially be cut out I guess. I can always scab panels off my hardtop too.

How are the floor panels held in? What's with all that sikaflex type stuff around the floorpan?

[Che]

royce wrote:

rust cvonvertor and glue the strip on, its how I did mine

the floor looks like its started under the panel though, thats hard to fix

I'd say so too. Got out the high pressure hose and blasted off 100 kilos of farm dirt from the underside. I'm guessing dirt's been trapped and held in the moisture... it's only along that one seam.

I might pull out the petrol tank and get a better look at things.

[BlueSuzy]

That back tray section is like triple layer.. PITA to get off. (my whole rear floor is cut out atm)

Sheet tacked/glued to main body frame, which has 2 sections. Look underneath you will see.

That tray door seal holder, mine is the same. Unsure what to do yet. My whole bottom section is cut off.

[missmyljdaze]

Since you have it cleaned up already:
Spray it wih R10 rust converter where ever you can, (comes in pump bottle) leave for 24 hours or so to do its stuff, Brush off dried residue (kinda dusty black stuff- I used an old banister brush)

Spray (or brush) it with penetrol to seal it,
Leave the penetrol a day or so to dry and spread itself around,
It will "creep" through the seams and work its way everywhere. The spray cans come with a skinny extension pipe so you can spray into hard to reach areas through holes etc. After its dry- you can spray it again if you need.
Try and use up the whole spray can- I have found that part used cans tend to die after a couple of days and you end up with half full cans that you cant use.
If you buy penetrol in regular cans (not spray cans) do not leave any air space in the can when you finish the job or it will turn to rubbery jelly as it reacts with air, to prevent this, drop marbles into the can until there is no airspace left!
Then paint with any oil paint, you can add penetrol to oil paint as well for a better finish if brushing on.

Before using R10 you need the surfaces damp- so get a cheapy spray bottle for water from the $2 shop.

Penetrol available from most bumblings in the paint additive section.
R10 from either bumblings or Auto one type shops.

R10 is non-toxic tannic acid based and works real good- but even though its non toxic- try not to get it on your skin- unless you want to do an Al Jolson impersonation.
It stains paving bricks and driveway concrete too.

(speaking from experience)

[Moph]

x100 on the Penetrol - it is great stuff. Don't be sparing with it either, slosh it on. Haven't had the problem with the jelly skin forming in can though - I just make sure it's done up tight and then gladwrap the tin complete. The air pocket in the can doesn't seem to be enough to cause it to go off by itself. I think it's actually moisture in the air that turns it to jelly anyhow.

[missmyljdaze]

just got back from having a look at the zook.

nah mate- shes cactus, beyond repair and well and truly stuffed.
your best bet is to cut your losses and ditch it.
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As you are pretty busy, I'll be nice and come and drag it away for you

[Che]

Fair call mate. I'll give you a couple of cartons of beer and a pat on the back if you get it outta my sight

[shakes]

por15 to seal it up afterwards. put your carpet over it, and ignore it until you have to deal with it properly. With rust in spots like that your often better off not digging any deeper.

[BlueSuzy]

You never know how much rust is there till you cut it out..!

[Che]

Yep, no corners will be cut, will sort it properly. I've completely eyeballed the car from top to tail now - the rest of the car is near spotless so it's worth a fix.

It's not too bad a problem, just fiddly. I reckon a chisel, small cutting disc and a mig will have it sorted. I'm just about to mock up a couple of stencils in MDF to take to a sheet metal place tomorrow.

[BlueSuzy]

what about cardboard? Or actual measurements?

[Bucket]

I pulled my rubber matting up the other day to find my floors in worse condition. I can see why the guys got rid of it.

Both footwells have previously been plated, but the welds are full of holes.
On the passenger side, theres a hole the size of a tennis ball that has been filled with silly-cone, and then painted over!!!

I'm taking the easy road out and prep-ing a new body. All the info I'm reading is handy though

[alien]

surely you can cut the floor out of the hard top to fix this?

[Che]

I'll use the hardtop where I need, but i'll try and keep it whole unless someone else can use a part or two.

Sorry to steal your pic Benchai, but can anyone tell me how hard it is to get to get a soft top body into this state - ie - how many hours to strip it down? If I could tip it on its side while it's bare like this it'd be a million times easier to get the floorpan spick and speck.

[alien]

undo all the body bolts, steering column and wiring and lift it off... but the pic is on another level with the dash etc removed also.

[sideways]

che_guitarra wrote:

I'll use the hardtop where I need, but i'll try and keep it whole unless someone else can use a part or two.

Sorry to steal your pic Benchai, but can anyone tell me how hard it is to get to get a soft top body into this state - ie - how many hours to strip it down? If I could tip it on its side while it's bare like this it'd be a million times easier to get the floorpan spick and speck.

You could do it in a day(or a few hours if you've done it before and have a mate helping) pretty easily, certainly in a weekend. You'l need a few people to help when you lift the body off. Probably 4 if you're keeping all the interior and the wind screen in/on it.

You really need to bite the bullet and get an air compressor and a spray gun.

[Hybrid]

Mines like that at the moment but with no windscreen and b pillar.. Did it in under a day. As a side note I was amazed how light the cab is stripped like this. I reckon I could tip it on it's side one handed.

[BJPK]

hey mate, i nearly bought this sierra but i think he was after to much. what did you get it for? also poor blokes spent all that time keeping the paint immaculate and your going to strip it off and paint it

[Che]

$2000 final price, a couple of hund since on consumables and car wash visits. All it needed was a good tidy up and a bottle of chemiweld to fix the head gasket (got a better motor at my disposal anyway). But it is a G16B - so I could go EFI if I wanted.

No plans to strip it back right now, http://auszookers.com/index.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=28625 - I want access to both sides of the floorpan to destroy all rust, then i'll give the whole underside a lick of zinc and tray liner so it'll never rust again.

[BJPK]

i must be thinking of a different sierra. same colour though. he was after around 6g for it.