[shandy92]

swifty_ano wrote:

Is anyone else noticing shit fuel economy?

no, im getting close to 390km (365km on the dash) with 31's and std gearing. and thats with a dented tank

[swifty_ano]

steak_knife wrote:

swifty_ano wrote:

Is anyone else noticing shit fuel economy?

looked at your crank pulley???

seemed fine when I did the timing belt. But then again I didnt look for that problem. wasn't any movement.

How can the pulley (key way I assume cause bad fuel economy?)
I only seem to get about 250km to almost a full tank.

[steak_knife]

Did you tighten the fruck out of the main crank bolt???

[swifty_ano]

didnt take it off because I couldn't. No oil in there so I left it.
Dodgey backyard mechanics

[xl76]

I am currently traveling 130 klm a day and consistently get over 450 KLm from a tank and 412KLm with the Air on
my vit is a 94 SWB Bog stock

[swifty_ano]

xl76 wrote:

I am currently traveling 130 klm a day and consistently get over 450 KLm from a tank and 412KLm with the Air on
my vit is a 94 SWB Bog stock

I remember the days of getting 350+ with the 29's and almost 500km with stocks.

Now im starting to think something is seriously wrong
Lately my main hang out is the fuel station.

[Scrawny]

I do 1,000kms a week dragging a tonne of weight. I get around 500klms per tank












Oh wait........

[swifty_ano]

Scrawn wrote:

I do 1,000kms a week dragging a tonne of weight. I get around 500klms per tank












Oh wait........

different vehicle?

[Scrawny]

Maybe......

[swifty_ano]

Do I have to take the belt off to check the Pulley for play?

[steak_knife]

you could use a timing light & watch for variant's at idle...

[swifty_ano]

The bottom pulley seems to move a bit at idle.
when revs are applied seems to run true.
Its not just not an illusion the pulley moves side to side.

[swifty_ano]

Also tried to use the timing light but its broked

[royce]

How I told with mine is by pulling number 1 plug out, turning it over to jsut before tdc on the timing mark and sitting a piece of stiff wire on the piston and turning it over by hand and watching

if the wire starts to drop before the timing marks line up on tdc you have dramas

[swifty_ano]

could the flogged keyway have anything to do with the irregular idle?

[steak_knife]

swifty_ano wrote:

could the flogged keyway have anything to do with the irregular idle?

Fuck Yeah!!!!

[royce]

didnt with mine but my idle control worked

unplug the idle control solenoid thingy, then there is a black rubber bung on the throttle body with the base idle speed screw under it, set your idle to 1000rpm and see how it goes for a while, if it still gets the funny I reckon its a leak (your hoses are all terrible you can tell just from those pics)

even go and replace all those spring clamps with proper screw ones and put zipties on all the little vacuum hoses

[swifty_ano]

steak_knife wrote:

swifty_ano wrote:

could the flogged keyway have anything to do with the irregular idle?

Fuck Yeah!!!!

Guess i'll go in for a closer inspection.

Could anyone with a bit of time explain what the key does (i assume takes the pressure off the bolts) and how a flogged keyway can affect so much?

[swifty_ano]

Ok it is official.. my cat converter has collapsed as it was rattling like crazy. Could this be causing it. Maybe the insides are loose and when i hit a bump or something they jump up and block it again?

[Scrawny]

Pull it out, gut it then put it back in and try it.

[steak_knife]

Scrawn wrote:

Pull it out, gut it then put it back in and try it.

Then replace it so the squid stand a chance....

[Scrawny]

steak_knife wrote:

Scrawn wrote:

Pull it out, gut it then put it back in and try it.

Then replace it so the squid stand a chance....

Who cares about the squid

It's the penguins I like

[swifty_ano]

steak_knife wrote:

Scrawn wrote:

Pull it out, gut it then put it back in and try it.

Then replace it so the squid stand a chance....

Cheers guys. The whole exhaust Is shagged. Muffler is dinted like no tomorrow and all the mounts are broken. I am planning on getting a new one when I have the time.

I shall gut it today

[swifty_ano]

So the exhaust bolts are not coming off without persuasion. The sockets/spanners just slip on the nuts. They don't seem to be metric or imperial atm. They must be frucked.

[Scrawny]

Grab ya can of wd-40 and dose all the nuts in it then leave it for a bit

[stocker]

swifty_ano wrote:

So the exhaust bolts are not coming off without persuasion. The sockets/spanners just slip on the nuts. They don't seem to be metric or imperial atm. They must be frucked.

they are metric...

Rost Off Ice FTW... and Non-Multi Hex Sockets ...






...or if all else fails!
...a slightly larger hammer

[swifty_ano]

So it seems I am definately not alone with idle issues. So I hope my experience may be of some help.
So I have tried numerous things to try and DIY fix my idle problem. Now one of the other things I have tried and others have suggested may be causing your problem.

My problem was a carboned up throttle body. Now this is very simple thing to clean. Unfortunately I didn't take photos to write up a how to.

In summary (you may have to remove the obvious bolts ):
Remove airbox lid
Remove intake pipe
Remove hoses from intake pipe(remember where hose came from!!)
Remove coolant lines from bottom of throttle body (you may lose a tad bit of coolant, so remember to top it up after)
Now remove the 4 fasteners on the throttle body (top two are nuts and bottom two are bolts. )
Remove tps wire clip (important!!! Do not adjust or move the tps in any way)
Now the throttle body should slide off.

The inside of it should be all carboned up. There is a little screw on the top (outside) of the TB. Unscrew that all the way. This is your idle control screw. This was the culprit on my car. This was full of carbon and affecting the airflow. (My guess. I'm no mechanic)
Now no soak everything you can with Carby cleaner/throttle body cleaner and clean with a tooth brush. Now obviously, don't wash with water or clean the coolant jacket thingo (on the bottom) with carby cleaner.
Make extra care to clean the little screw hole as good as you can.

Now once clean. Screw that screw all the way in. Now 1 1/2 turns outwards should get you close.
Reassemble by doing the steps in reverse.

Start and test it. I'm pretty sure you can't adjust the idle until car is at operating temperature.
Once warm. Adjust the idle screw to recommendation in manual. My 1996 g16b is 800rpm.
Screw the screw in for lower rpm and out for higher.
Now I'm no mechanic and don't claim to be. Just hoping I May be able to help someone.
(Will proof read once on my laptop)