[suzukikid]

I broke either a cv or axel yesterday and am wantin YOUR opion on if you think its worth takin the diff apart changing it to take the spline count when i have been offerd a standard one for $50...thats 10 for the price...

It was my first one yesterday and was my fault as lookin at the video i was on full lock into the bank and when i hit reverse bang it went!

i had a spare but only short side....so will also carry a spare long and short side from now on!

[tanshi]

YES!,

Its worth it in time wasted changing them alone!!!

[Gwagensteve]

Yes. They are 100% worth it.

You've been offered a standard one now for $50. The next time you break one you might not be able to find one so easily.... or at all.

Also, whilst it's not that time consuming to change a CV trackside, it's still a bit of a PITA, especially if it's raining or at night.

It also sounds like you haven't pulled the CV yet. Does that mean you drove home on a busted CV? That's not a good idea. You might not be aware than when a CV goes the chunks can rattle around and bind the steering, even in 2WD and with the hubs unlocked. We ALWAYS change or remove the CV as soon as possible. The consequences of bound steering on the drive home aren't worth the risk.

The larger cars int he Vic club have all been running chromoly axles for years and we have had zero CV breakage. It makes for a happier trip.

Steve.

[dank]

100% worth it....not for the headache of changing a CV but for knowing you can run decent sized rubber and give it some gas or wedge it right up in the Rut and know it won't snap on you.

[zooktastic]

do it, fitted mine and run round on 33s all day with plenty of limiter bashs and never had a drama (with my front axles)

[SierraDan]

100%.

I've flogged the crap out of mine front locked and no sign of a breakage.

[alien]

its on my "to-do" list for sure... i've not done a fron axle or CV yet, but its always in the back of my mind, especially given i've cracked and twisted both rear axles already!

I think if you're running a front locker its a MUST that you fit the crmo's... and if you are fitting the crmo's without a locker, then you might as well save up and chuck one in while its all apart (airlocker of course).

[Rusho]

YES.....

[Ruthless]

just to be different even though i have a set with a locker and a 4age and everyone know how much i flog my car im supprised i havent broken one yet

[suzukikid]

mmmmm well i dont have the cash to do it this time but next time i guess ill have to!

I did drive home on it didnt even think of it doin anything to the steering!

Will rip it out tomorow and have a squiz!

What exactly do ya have to change in the diff? can i keep my locker in there?

[steak_knife]

YEP!!!!!

[Samurai81]

I've got a set of chromos waiting to go in. Trouble is the cost of replacing the locker side gears. ARB want an arm and a leg for them. Its tempting fate but I'm still running the tracks with standard axels.

[Joe]

alien wrote:

its on my "to-do" list for sure... i've not done a fron axle or CV yet, but its always in the back of my mind, especially given i've cracked and twisted both rear axles already!

I think if you're running a front locker its a MUST that you fit the crmo's... and if you are fitting the crmo's without a locker, then you might as well save up and chuck one in while its all apart (airlocker of course).

Does that mean your locking the front of yours?

[alien]

not in the short term. I want to get my full floater rear done first as thats my current weak point (rear axles) - also means i get rear discs which is nice... and this is all approved to be done by DoT and my engineer.

Its just on the to-do list that i get a more solid front end, and in the process i'd be mad not to put a front locker in there given everything else is set up to take one (compressor and wiring is done). Its not something i've set a date or goal to have done anytime soon though, and will more than likely only happen once something lets go on the front end.

[suzukikid]

cheers guys!

i had lockers in my nt on 33's and never broke one....lookin at the videos its all my fault....it was pretty much on opposite lock into the bank and i tryd to go backwards.... then snap!haha

With the crawler gears i hardly hit anything fast....just crawl everything....

Anyway tomorow will tell me what i have done!

[CompTruck]

il be going cromos after i break the next one or one after that. havent gone out with my recently changed one so not sure what i can expect in terms of how often theyl break with my style driving. i frash it but so probly break lots

[suzukikid]

you blokes will know.....just watchin the video(if ya go into trips then the wombat thread on the 9th page ya can see it!) it doesnt seem to click untill its under load.....could this be a pin in the lock rite?

Have a squiz and let me know what ya think!

[Gwagensteve]

No you've broken a CV by jamming the tyre into the spring (? - maybe the cut off outrigger or something if not the spring) at full lock in reverse. That will take out a CV without question.

They are weakest at full lock and in reverse due to design and wear.

Steve.

[suzukikid]

cheers bud....watchin it i dont even know why i went to full lock!

Ah well will have photos tomorow!

[Gwagensteve]

I don't think you had any choice. With the tyre against the rut the wheel would have gone to full lock as soon as you reversed.

Steve.

[suzukikid]

yeah i didnt notice it happen...any way thats it built for!

[suzukikid]

what a weak excuse of doin a cv.....

didnt even explode.... just cracked the outer once and the inner bit 3 times....

good in a way cause there was no metal floating around in there!

and i know now what ya mean about it could cease ya steering! lucky really if it had of exploded could of been a different story on the way home!

[Brenno]

Its not an option for me as I am NT(not really relevant to you I guess). As far as I know they do not make a NT Cromo, correct? I would change to WT diffs, however I can't go any wider than I currently am on NT diffs as its engineered to the maximum width. Sensible driving has seen my diffs last in all three suzukis, running 30's, 31's, 33's and now 34's and with standard and 125kw.

[alien]

you could run WT diffs and different offset rims dude =)

[Gwagensteve]

alien wrote:

you could run WT diffs and different offset rims dude =)

^^^ This.

Much better outcome. Less scrub radius, happier bearings, more parts support.

Steve.

[suzukikid]

went to the mechanic over the road from my olds joint to get him to get the uni off my spare short side and put it on my long side axel....''turns out the axel has snapped all the splines and they had no where to go causing the uni to crack.....

[mika]

you have uni joint axles you mean cv's right

[Gwagensteve]

I assume you mean CV rather than uni?

Anyways, I think you have it the wrong way around. The splines are stronger than the axleshaft - splines don't break, the axle will break before the splines.

The inner part of the CV (I call it the cage, but it might have a proper/better I think the outer flexes under high load, the balls can then move outwards a bit and then the cage breaks because it's not butted hard against the balls. The axle then slips inside the broken cage.

I could be wrong, but that's how I have reasoned it.

They almost never fail with the wheels straight ahead, when the balls are fully seated inside the outer and there is much more material around t hem to prevent flex.

Doubletoughs will break hub bolts before anything else.

Steve.

[just_cruizin]

it's a jeep thing you guys just don't understand

[steak_knife]

Yes.