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Post Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 5:02 pm 
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Hey guys

I have a G16A engine block with a G13BA head on it.
My temp gauge is sitting about half way and sometimes just over which I think is to much.

Would The G16A thermostat fit into the G13BA housing and would this lower the engine temp. Iv just done new radiator hoses and the radiator itself is in good condition. The engine is out just now for repaires and I'd rather get it all at once.

Thanks for your help

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 6:44 pm 
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Change the thermostat to a 180 (82 degrees C), it will spend most of the time at 1/5 of the temp guage.
The 190 (88 degrees) is probably what you are running atm.
180 and 192 are the last number of the thermo stat.
I cent remember the 1st part.

EDIT:
Tridon part numbers
TT 240 - 180
TT 240 - 192

Can also get highflow thermostats, which allow more coolant flow.


Last edited by jdk81 on Tue Feb 28, 2012 7:27 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 10:37 pm 
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Get a master gauge, the stupid thing that is stock does not tell temp, just silliness

You may well find that there is maybe a degree or two from what you call normal, to what you freak out about.

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 11:39 pm 
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Ok ill look into it then. We're can you get the 180 thermostat

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 7:24 am 
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SuziBlu wrote:
Get a master gauge, the stupid thing that is stock does not tell temp, just silliness

You may well find that there is maybe a degree or two from what you call normal, to what you freak out about.


I suspect this is what the OP is seeing, thinking the 192 is way too hot etc.

sbbunno wrote:
Ok ill look into it then. We're can you get the 180 thermostat


Auto store, just look up the tridon catalogue.
Part is TT240-180

Theres two used between swifts, sierras and vitaras (between the tt240 180/192)

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 2:24 pm 
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On low range it says the 180 is stock. Would you be able to tell the difference when I take it out?

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 2:28 pm 
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yes, it will be stamped on it.

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 2:34 pm 
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Cool thanks I'll have a lok today. I'd rather not order stuff before I check.

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 3:42 pm 
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ive just done the g16a into sierra conversion,, i used the 1.3ba inlet and thermostat housing onto the 1.6a as it was ported to suit the webber im runin..
& the std 1.3 thermostat was a 82dgs (marked),,
im using a thermo fan with original shroud and temp is between quarter and half (driving) then drops to quarter when at idle..

i also noticed when i got a new 1.3 thermostat the old one was a biger hole when open so i guess thats the high flow one..

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 4:38 pm 
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Ok I'm gonna have to look at it tonit when I get home. This might solve some issues I have with heating.
Theres no descriptive on the suzistore thermostat wether its 82 or 88 one. Might have to go through low range.

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 5:22 pm 
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Get the thermo stat from supercrap, autobarn, ripco etc

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 8:03 pm 
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Are you assuming that because the outside of the radiator looks good that the tubes aren't blocked?

Do you run a fan shroud?
Fixed/Clutch/thermo fan?

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 12:40 am 
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I flushed the radiator and I run a shroud with the standard engine fan.

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 9:45 am 
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Flushing the radiator doesn't necessary mean it's not clogged and flows well. Unless it's very new I would take it down to a radiator place and get the tanks removed and it rodded out and checked for piece of mind

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 9:59 am 
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Fair enough, but seein as the water came straight out the other end I would have thought it wasnt clogged.

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 10:01 am 
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So, have you checked what thermostat you are currently running?

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 11:30 am 
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Please don't trust Factory Temp Gauges, they are shit. Haven't quite finished testing the zookie yet.
so far the info that i've come up with it reads "half way" from 60Degree's, and haven't had it spike past 90Degree's yet, but the needle hasn't moved. the VDO Gauge i have is Relativly accurate reading the Temp range, some spots its out by a few degree's but suffice to say you get a relatively accurate reading. Will Post up a tech article with temps and ohm readings once im done testing her. (G16B) By the way. With a Suzuki Thermostat and New(ish) Radiator.

I know fact- That any 80 Series Toyota will read half way from 75Degree's right through to 105 Degree's before the needle starts moving. (Scary Shit that is)

Nissan Patrol TD42T - Reads "half way" between 68Degree's and 92 Degree's. (not so bad but not a very good indicator)

I also know Jaycar do a good kit for temp gauges that are relatively cheap :)

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 12:23 pm 
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jdk81 wrote:
So, have you checked what thermostat you are currently running?



I still haven't been home yet, since the last couple of post's. I'm using my iPad to check for updates on the topic.




stocker wrote:
Please don't trust Factory Temp Gauges, they are shit. Haven't quite finished testing the zookie yet.
so far the info that i've come up with it reads "half way" from 60Degree's, and haven't had it spike past 90Degree's yet, but the needle hasn't moved. the VDO Gauge i have is Relativly accurate reading the Temp range, some spots its out by a few degree's but suffice to say you get a relatively accurate reading. Will Post up a tech article with temps and ohm readings once im done testing her. (G16B) By the way. With a Suzuki Thermostat and New(ish) Radiator.

I know fact- That any 80 Series Toyota will read half way from 75Degree's right through to 105 Degree's before the needle starts moving. (Scary Shit that is)

Nissan Patrol TD42T - Reads "half way" between 68Degree's and 92 Degree's. (not so bad but not a very good indicator)

I also know Jaycar do a good kit for temp gauges that are relatively cheap :)




I realize the stock gauges aren't accurate but still it reads above half way to 3 quater. Which I figure is good reason to check.
I might invest in an after market one later when I have it all back together. A tech article would be good on this.

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 12:35 pm 
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sbbunno wrote:
Fair enough, but seein as the water came straight out the other end I would have thought it wasnt clogged.


All that tells you is its not 100% clogged.

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 1:27 pm 
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Haha makes sense I guess. Thanks I'll also check that.

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 11:43 pm 
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Ok haven't checked the radiator but I checked the thermostat, it's an 82 degree one, I boils It in a pot of water to see of it was working and it opened up but later than I expected.
I only just got in from working on the engine, new seals, new clutch, new starter and flywheel

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 12:31 pm 
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sorry to jump in, how hard to do a 16a conversion? i just got a sierra 89 sj50 and its stock.

I hope to get a bit more torque if possible..

Cheers

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 2:56 pm 
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This is the G16B, the mounting is very similar to the G16A,
viewtopic.php?f=17&t=4853


And you can get the different mounts hear.

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 5:22 pm 
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yeah i have seen that. i am wondering if i can use 16a bottom end and use the rest from the stock 1.3?


sbbunno wrote:
This is the G16B, the mounting is very similar to the G16A,
http://auszookers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=4853


And you can get the different mounts hear.

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 6:18 pm 
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defibros wrote:
yeah i have seen that. i am wondering if i can use 16a bottom end and use the rest from the stock 1.3?


Yes you can, I did a quick post on it about a year ago.

OP

did you use a thermometer to work out the temps of the thermostat, or just that it opened partially - fully.

Are there many fins of the radiator bent, is it clean or got a bit of mud in it?

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 6:35 pm 
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i'd say it's got a blocked radiator... get it rodded

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 7:37 pm 
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OP
Do you have the temp sender from the g16a? Try that
And as per OP yes the thermostat from the g16a will fit too. It will be the same type.

SuziBlu wrote:
You may well find that there is maybe a degree or two from what you call normal, to what you freak out about.


This is still the issue, between 1/5 and 1/2 on the scale is only a few degrees.
I panicked when mine would get warm thinking it was getting close to overheating, now i have an idea of the scale.

atari4x4 wrote:
i'd say it's got a blocked radiator... get it rodded

partially blocked, we are only talking a few degrees difference.

If the rad is clean on the outside, thermo and temp sender work correctly, then consider spending money on the rad.

Oh, is the egr working? That will lower combustion temps in 4th and 5th if working correctly. If its not working correctly, things get a bit hotter.

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 9:52 am 
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No I didn't have a thermometer so I just heated to see if it worked. Was to late at night to go get one.
It looked to me like it fully opened. The radiator is fairly clean outside, some of the fins are bent but not to much only a few, I'm not sure what type of temp sender is on it. I think it may the 1.3 according to my mate I bought it off a year ago. (if I remember correctly) how much is it to get the radiator roded?

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