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az supporter
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Joined: Mon May 24, 2010 8:58 am
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Location: Noosa Sunshine Coast

Post Posted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 5:36 pm 
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Hey guys/girls,

Haven't been on here for awhile, but need some help with my brake issue... I've got to pump it twice to get a solid pedal then once I release the pedal I then have to pump twice to regather a solid pedal even if it's like 10 seconds after having a solid pedal (car can be running or off same situation). So I'll list the things I have done to try and over come the problem. I've also got a shit handbrake on Max adjustment.(also have extended brake lines)

1. New front rotors and pads
2. New rear shoes and wheel cylinders
3. S/hand handbrake cable
4. Made sure the adjuster isn't seized
5. Bleed the system 3 times thinking there could be air in the system
6. Replaced the master cylinder
7. Measured the rear drums to make sure they weren't over sized(also check shoes for correct size)

The only thing left is to replace the booster... I've also got the 4AGE 16V in it..... Don't think it makes a difference.

Any help is appreciated.
Fletcher

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az supporter
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Joined: Fri Aug 26, 2011 3:17 pm
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Location: Melbourne
Vehicle: Swb Sierra twin lock 32s 6.5s

Post Posted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 7:20 pm 
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My misses has that problem in her laser I know it's a laser and I changed the master and came good ou haven't got a vacuum leak on the booster?? All your brake lines in good nick?? And nothing leaking oil??

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 7:22 pm 
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what is it?

get a brake hose clamp and clamp off the rear hose and see if it gets better, if it does adjust your brakes PROPERLY

if not try with each front corner

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 8:21 pm 
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Also check your front wheel bearings for play

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az supporter
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Post Posted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 12:10 am 
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Cheers for the replies guys, it's got all brand new brake lines, brand new wheel bearings/axle bearings/swivel hub bearings. I tried clamping off the rear and it is spot on. There is only one way to adjust the shoes on a coily Sierra isn't there? I've also discovered that a brand new slave cylinder (1month old) has failed and is leaking very small amounts of fluid.. Getting a new one tommorow hopefully it will make it some what better.. Done a couple of tests of the booster and it's fine... It's defernatly something at the back. Ive re-adjusted the shoes multiple times and still ends the same.. Would having an extended brake line on the rear(body to diff) make a difference?

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Joined: Wed Mar 24, 2010 10:30 pm
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Location: Perth
Vehicle: '92 Sierra, 1.6efi, SPOA, 31s.

Post Posted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 12:21 am 
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my brakes have extended lines all round and work brilliantly even with 31's hindering them.

i was very suprised how much the rear brake affect braking after having the cylinders replaced a year and a bit ago - it was after that i made a conscious decision to avoid mud as much as possible, and my brakes have worked amazingly since - they've also lasted twice as long so far as the previous 2 lots of drums!

anyway, point is that extended lines shouldnt be making a difference so long as theres sufficient fluid in the system.

i'd check that the self adjusting thingy whatsit is working on the rear brakes, also known as the "LSPV" or Load Sensing Proportioning Valve.

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 6:48 am 
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Are you sure you want to call the LSPV a "self adjusting thingy"?

I wouldn't want anyone laboring under the impression it adjusts the rear brakes - because it doesn't - it adjusts how much pressure goes to the rear brakes based on the ride height - there is a presumption that the greater the load, the lower the rear of the vehicle will be.

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Joined: Sun May 09, 2010 2:32 am
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Location: Brisbane, South.
Vehicle: Jimny, Lifted on 30's

Post Posted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 1:15 pm 
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Same thing happened to my LJ, just had to tighten the drums up untill they were pretty tight, like just able to turn and brakes were fine....

Nick.

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 1:49 pm 
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unclip the handbrake cable off the arm poking out the backing plates
remove drums, adjsut shoes up, refit drums, keep doing this till it takes a good amount of effort to rotate the drum and they wont free spin (with the wheels off)

repeat on the other side

bleed your brakes again all you need to do is crack the bleed screw and let any air come out till its a solid dribble of fluid, no pumping or stuffing about

loosen the handbrake cable adjsuter, put the cables back on and adjsut teh cable till the handle pulls up in a good spot

your brakes are fixed


NOBODY ever adjsuts drums up enough for a good pedal and everyone thinks the cable has some magic effect on how well the handbrake works, its doesnt it jsut makes it worse

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 2:34 pm 
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royce wrote:
NOBODY ever adjsuts drums up enough for a good pedal and everyone thinks the cable has some magic effect on how well the handbrake works, its doesnt it jsut makes it worse


I'm somebody!! :roll:

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 3:07 pm 
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JrZook wrote:
royce wrote:
NOBODY ever adjsuts drums up enough for a good pedal and everyone thinks the cable has some magic effect on how well the handbrake works, its doesnt it jsut makes it worse


I'm somebody!! :roll:


Is that what your parents tell you snowflake :rofl:

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 3:43 pm 
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I keep telling myself I'm somebody too, still don't believe it tho......

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