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Post Posted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 5:08 pm 
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I'm doing research into sill chops as I intend to boat side them on my sierra and I've done a lengthy search and found a few threads with some after shots and a couple of in progress but I was wondering if anyone had a bunch of pics or detailed explaination of one that they have done archived away somewhere? Any measurements would be helpfull too, like how far down from the door I can cut etc.

Would be handy I thought for people to research in future there was a dedicated thread on this. Please forgive me if there already is one and I haven't found it in my searches.

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 5:27 pm 
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it all depends on what your final product is. If your welding in steel back into the body, then your cut will be different to a chassis mounted slider.

if i was you i would just cut little by little and find your own boundaries.

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 7:24 pm 
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Cut
Image

Tacked in 3mm plate, precut with guillo from steel place
Image

Welded in
Image

Old Sill
Image

You can gain alot of clearance by doing this. Alot of people just weld n some rhs and thats the slider, But Im making a seperate chassis mounted slider. Still end up with more clearance than a stock sill.

Plan, Measure, Mark it out, Cut. There is not much that can go wrong with a sierra sill. I mig welded it in via random inch welds. The 3mm helped alot to reduce warpage and burning through the tin foil panel.

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 7:57 pm 
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My plan was to weld in some angle iron similar to the RHS method and then weld 3mm flat bar on a 45 degree to the angle iron.

As it is now I have sliders under the stock sills so I'm gonna gain 40mm just by removing them and I rarely get hung up as it is when I wheel.

It looks like you even cut the floor pain and boxed it in? I don't want to go that drastic I think, it's gonna be a butload of welding as it is. Do you think I can get away without carving up the floor?

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 8:23 pm 
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Why not just leave it at the right angle.

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 9:39 pm 
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Looks really. I see the point of leaving it at the right angle for more clearance but I think it looks neater with it filled in.

Any progress shots of that though? Pretty much exactly as I was thinking, did that cut into the floor at all?

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 10:01 pm 
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It looked pretty much the same as Bluesuzy's, I dont think he cut into the footwell, I didnt and I also left the extra bit behind were the foot well rises up as I cant weld panels for shit and so just sandwiched that section with plate and bolted it all on.. Stock foot well butts up against the part outlined in red. It worked very well even if it wasnt welded, however I only used 3 mm angle which meant the outer edge wasnt strong enough to hold up to being drag along rocks, so I would recommend using 5mm at least if you go this way.

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 11:49 pm 
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Very helpful, thankyou. What size angle is that? 100x100?

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Post Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 11:40 am 
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From memory it was around 100 down by 90 out, it was originally 3mm sheet that my brother in law bent up for me. It was less then 100mm wide though which is why i didnt just get 100x100, with the sharpish outer edge I didnt want it too wide and scratching the crap out of my shins calves every time I got in and out.

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Post Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 12:11 pm 
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Rightio, I might get 100x100 angle and trim it down to suit. I'd like it to sit a little away from the body but only by a few mm.

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Post Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 4:49 pm 
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I like your idea of having the plate cut down on an angle, looks pretty boss actually.

Now you've got me thinking if I should do some of this when I pull my zook apart!

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Post Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 7:00 pm 
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I didnt cut the floor. Only did rust repairs.

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Post Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 9:35 am 
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Good stuff, that was my hope Teracis, that people would see this thread and get ideas.

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