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Post Posted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 2:34 pm 
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Hi guys,

Well it looks like the 1L has decided to spring a leak. As fas as i can tell its coming from inside the timing cover so i'm assuming its going to be either the crank or cam shaft seal.

Is there any tricks/easy ways to do these? Am i going to have to remove the radiator? Probably my main concern is keeping everything where it should be once i get the timing belt off so i dont stuff up the timing.

Any advice you can offer would be appreciated!

Thanks
Steve


Last edited by sstteevvee on Thu Mar 15, 2012 8:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 8:21 am 
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Removing the rad and shroud gives plenty of room to work.

Line all the timing marks up and even put a paint dot on the belt at each gear mark to ensure you get it back on correctly.

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Post Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 10:04 pm 
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Thanks want33s, was probably going to replace the belt when i do them so ill be sure to take pics of the old one so i dont forget how the new one should go on

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 6:07 pm 
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Can anyone tell me how vital it is to have the No1 piston at TDC? My service manual is a lil vague as far as engine types go so i just wanna make sure that this is necessary

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 6:22 pm 
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haha im in the same boat mate my lil 1 liter has been leaking for months now at first i just used some silicon on it did the job for how long i needed it to work but i wouldnt mind fixing it up properly. with the engine just make sure that its at T.D.C the lines on the engine and you shouldnt have a problem i did my water pump the other week i just lined up the marks and nothing moved when i took the belt off

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 6:47 pm 
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Also there is no timing marks on the timing cover itself however i have seen mentioned that it uses the flywheel for a timing mark. Does this make sense?

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 7:22 pm 
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Answered my own question. The ignition timing marks are on the flywheel so i have succesfuly got no1 to TDC. Now to get the crank pulley off...........

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 8:07 pm 
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Sooooo I got the pulley off and this is what i've found with my timing marks......

Image

Image

Image

Image

So as you can see the timing mark on the flywheel is highlighted at a mark which appears to have 10? on it. The '1' on the distributor is where the lead to first piston (closest to bonnet) would sit if the cap were on, the rotor appears to be spot on as far as TDC goes.

But under the timing cover you can see that the marks dont really line up? Also what is wierd is that the actual 'dot' is at the bottom of the cam sprocket

So any thoughts/ideas would be appreciated, as you can tell this is my 1st attempt at this so im learning as im going

Ta,
Steve

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 10:03 pm 
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I can't remember off the top of my head wether the cam pulley mark is supposed to be top or bottom but I will say that cam turns at half crank revs so if you turn the engine 360 degrees the cam will turn 180 degrees. The marks will then line up.

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 3:02 am 
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sstteevvee wrote:
Sooooo I got the pulley off and this is what i've found with my timing marks......

Image

So as you can see the timing mark on the flywheel is highlighted at a mark which appears to have 10? on it. The '1' on the distributor is where the lead to first piston (closest to bonnet) would sit if the cap were on, the rotor appears to be spot on as far as TDC goes.

The ignition timing is set to the point where it fires a spark (10deg before TDC), NOT TDC. The mark on the flywheel is highlighted with whiteout for use with a timing light to show the correct point of ignition, which is also when the rotor button should align with the No 1 terminal on the cap. Looks to be all good for the ignition, but this DOES NOT SHOW TDC!!! You need to turn the crank 10 degrees to show another full size line (each small line shows 1 deg) with a "T" mark.

Image

But under the timing cover you can see that the marks dont really line up? Also what is wierd is that the actual 'dot' is at the bottom of the cam sprocket

So any thoughts/ideas would be appreciated, as you can tell this is my 1st attempt at this so im learning as im going

Ta,
Steve


The cam belt marks don't line up because you're at 10deg BTDC. When the flywheel shows the "T" mark lining up with the bellhousing mark, the "Dot" on the cam gear should be lining up with a little indented arrow stamped on the housing backing plate just above the tensioner bearing. There might be rubber belt dust and oil built up there, clean it up to see the mark. Ignore the white marks someone has put on at the top of the cam gear and the belt housing plate, they are way too vague to be setting any timing with!

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 3:07 am 
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sstteevvee wrote:
Sooooo I got the pulley off and this is what i've found with my timing marks......

Image


Oh, and that sticker above the timing hole will have all this info on it. Try to clear the paint off it by wiping it gently (don't scrub) with a rag soaked in brake fluid, it won't affect the vinyl sticker, but will lift the paint.

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 12:49 pm 
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Thanks guys. And yes once again 303zuke your 100% spot on, i cleared the sticker which states ignition timing 10deg BTDC. I've just gone out to suzistore and picked up new genuine seals so all thats left to do now is swap em over.

Once again thanks for the help guys!!

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Post Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2012 2:06 pm 
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Hey fellas,

im having a bit of trouble getting the actual seals out of their housings/off the shafts. According to my manual it says to pry the seal out using a small screwdriver wraped with tape, but this is doing absolutely nothing and the tape is just splitting leaving my camshaft with little marks on it. So far theres none on the part where the seal sits but i'm assuming there has to be a better way to get them out?

Cheers

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Post Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2012 6:08 pm 
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Tap the screw driver into the outer edge of the seal and 'flick' it out

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