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Post Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 12:13 pm 
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OK i have a ute cab which is being extra cabbed and i need to put an internal cage in it, its an lj81 cab and so is quite restricted in space.

how do you get in to build a cage in there and still get to all the welds. doesnt look possible to build the cage first and put it in afterward.

just after some ideas from those in the know.

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 12:21 pm 
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If your extra cabbing it, couldn't the cage be somewhat built and installed before the back end is stuck on.

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 12:24 pm 
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boostedbrick wrote:
If your extra cabbing it, couldn't the cage be somewhat built and installed before the back end is stuck on.


This is how Just_Cruizin did his cage. His was complete and fitted before stitching the cab together

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 12:30 pm 
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I wouldn't do it unless your bloody good Panel beater, but our speedway cars get the roof cut of and rewelded back on.

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 12:54 pm 
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I've see them welded in place , then holes cut in the floor so the cage can be dropped to do the welding on the top

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 1:03 pm 
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UBZNZ wrote:
I've see them welded in place , then holes cut in the floor so the cage can be dropped to do the welding on the top


x2

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 2:27 pm 
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It's a PITA to do afterwards which is why I did mine before the back went on but the best way is to leave the feet off the cage and cut holes in the floor, when it welded lift it into position and slide the feet into position and weld them on. The base plates under the floor cover the holes anyways or you could weld the coupon back in then plate.

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 2:35 pm 
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interesting, i havent put the back on yet and it doesnt have a roof so i guess it will be cage as the next step before panel work.

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 2:38 pm 
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yeah cutting holes in the floor and dropping it down is a popular way of doing it

You will likely have enough room to not need to but I know an LJ ute who has the B pillar outside the cab and the roof to A pillar bar running through holes in the top corners

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 2:49 pm 
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royce wrote:
yeah cutting holes in the floor and dropping it down is a popular way of doing it

You will likely have enough room to not need to but I know an LJ ute who has the B pillar outside the cab and the roof to A pillar bar running through holes in the top corners


i considered this way but im not sure of the road legalities of it. the one im building will need to be regoed and road worthied with the cage in place

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 3:26 pm 
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Only problem with that is connection to both body and chassis

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 3:33 pm 
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The other option is to build the cage short & then box in the floor mounts to bring it up to the right height.

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 3:46 pm 
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atari4x4 wrote:
The other option is to build the cage short & then box in the floor mounts to bring it up to the right height.

Image

Image



Both Cams and CCDA like it being done like this as you can also tie the mount into stronger sections of body and sometimes avoid bends in the B pillar vertical sections, which CCDA are a big no on

FWIW on the LJ the front legs tie into the chassis to avoid the body - chassis different planes, but there are also allowed ways to get around this with bushes

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 4:00 pm 
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That's how the 2 full weld in cages I've seen built to CAMS spec were done, I think the way it mounts is also stronger as it's picking up more than one plane?

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 4:33 pm 
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I seen like a 50 mm hole saw cut out of the roof to weld the tops then weld the plate back in the roof

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