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djed
Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 7:31 am Posts: 114 Location: oz
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 Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 7:54 pm |
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Bennyzarb
Joined: Tue Aug 24, 2010 12:22 pm Posts: 500 Location: north richmond
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 Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 10:27 pm |
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That's an ok job for a non panel beater you did well but you only need to prime once and fiber filler is for covering holes and when you weld around just whatch out for your heat don't let it get to hot cause the panel will worp  Good job
_________________ 92sierra ht 33s 5in lift 2in zorst gti powered
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foolsp33d
Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 10:30 pm Posts: 2123 Location: Deep Inside Jamies Mouth
Vehicle: Clown Car..
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 Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 10:49 pm |
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I reckon the door split must be a pretty common occurrence on the sierras.. have the same split, in the same place.. both doors.. reckon it comes from above where the side mirror is that weld goes and allows flex in the panel..
as Benny said, good job for a non beater!
_________________ Roads... Where we're going we dont need Roads....
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djed
Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 7:31 am Posts: 114 Location: oz
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 Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 11:58 pm |
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Thanks guys, yeah still learning/improving my technique each time. The rear quarters were my first attempt and the welders sets resulted in allot of blow throughs. Found a mig welder calculator and realised with gasless the lowest thickness sheet metal it recommends is 2.4mm. so I got some argon/co2 bend gas, some solid core wire, flipped the polarity and it came out allot better will practically no blow throughs on 0.8 mm thick sheet metal.
The bottom sections of the rear quaters are the biggest rust traps i had to cut out about a 10*10 cm section of the pannel and the back section of the pannel altoghter. i think the area is a cavity that just fills up full of water and dirt.
After welding the rear quarters I covered everything with penatrol to try and seal out any air to minimise future rust. Penatrol recommends it is seal with a primer, so I used a primer before I used metal filler to fill in the entire blow through holes due to using a fluxed wire.
I am not sure about what caused the door rip. The driver’s panel has so much flexed in it, although it is a bit better now. the join near the side mirror was siliconed by the previous owner. i was going to weld this but i was unsure if it was originally metal welded. the other door looks original and the joint you can press your finger nail into it. this joint letting go may have been the cause.
With regards to inner door frame rip. i looks like this was caused by the door getting pushed to far open or a massive gust of wind. the inner door frame was also all ripped up on the inside near the door webbing mounting bolt holes
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Fatzook

az supporter
Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2007 11:30 pm Posts: 14977 Location: The Hills
Vehicle: Vitara, NGV
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 Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 8:04 pm |
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Good work but IMO you should have just cut the lower rear gaurd sections off. They do nothing, and if you ever plan on running a custom rear bar they will be in the way.
_________________ 2013 GV 1998 SV420 ute
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djed
Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 7:31 am Posts: 114 Location: oz
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 Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 10:17 pm |
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haha yeah that was my first though to cut it off, but i though if the cops ever get up me for not having mud flaps having that section would make it easy to install them . I am not sure what the previous owner got the alloy bumper off. I have not seen it on anyting else. from behibd it looks like the side have been cut and modified.
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Fatzook

az supporter
Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2007 11:30 pm Posts: 14977 Location: The Hills
Vehicle: Vitara, NGV
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 Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 10:56 pm |
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The previous owners name is Brad? Its a one off bar. Pretty sure I installed the seats in that beast.
_________________ 2013 GV 1998 SV420 ute
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djed
Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 7:31 am Posts: 114 Location: oz
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 Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 5:13 pm |
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yeah thats the one. I need to get a blue plate for the bucket seats. Do you recommend anyone?
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