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Post Posted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 3:28 pm 
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just received my lift kit and was wondering if it was a hard job to do at home???

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 3:34 pm 
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is this where we guess what type of suzuki you own? :thefinger:

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 3:36 pm 
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im thinking Jimny, or a patrol as no one else would put 80mm of lift in a car and think its a good idea.

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 3:40 pm 
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Trolly jack and some car stands, basic had tools and a basic mechanical knowledge. If you open up the kit and dont no what the parts are, were they go or how to get them in there, I would take it to a professional.

Are you doing brake lines and all that jazz or just springs, shocks and panhards?

ps dont forget you steering wheel will no longer be straight until you do an alignment

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 3:42 pm 
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My steering wheel is a circle :thefinger:

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 5:25 pm 
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:rofl:

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 5:38 pm 
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It's a really easy job if you're mechanically apt. I did 4 coils today and the rear three times in two hours playing with different coils and spacers.
The hardest part is getting it jack up and supported safely. If you don't have good stands and jacks you should probably avoid doing it yourself.
Don't put 80mm of lift until you have longer brake lines.

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 6:44 pm 
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tanshi wrote:
im thinking Jimny, or a patrol as no one else would put 80mm of lift in a car and think its a good idea.


So much truth here.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 7:10 pm 
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Tanshi is a bit hard on the Jimny owners?

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 7:32 pm 
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Trolly jack and jack stands, easy as. Remove the wheels for easy access and so you can drop the diff lower.
If you don't have stands or trolly jack go and buy some, you'll use them quite a bit anyway, so they will pay themselves off quickly.
zukenutter wrote:
Don't put 80mm of lift until you have longer brake lines.

Extended brake lines are not a must to fit before fitting the lift. :wink:
With the rear, you can stretch the lines enough to remove and fit the new coils. But with the front you need to disconnect them so you can drop the diff low enough. Easy to do, just re-attach and bleed. You can use them until you get extended ones, just don't flex it up.

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Here you go Atari, stick that in your mangina

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 9:27 pm 
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Or don't hit a decent pothole, get to much body roll round a corner, get some lift off of a crest in the road..... That is unless you want to be ploughing into whatever is in front of you next moment you need to stop.

The practice described above by brindog is down right dangerous, I'd only do that if it were to drive onto a trailer to head down to the nearest brake shop to get longer lines fitted.

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 9:40 pm 
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brindog wrote:
Trolly jack and jack stands, easy as. Remove the wheels for easy access and so you can drop the diff lower.
If you don't have stands or trolly jack go and buy some, you'll use them quite a bit anyway, so they will pay themselves off quickly.
zukenutter wrote:
Don't put 80mm of lift until you have longer brake lines.

Extended brake lines are not a must to fit before fitting the lift. :wink:
With the rear, you can stretch the lines enough to remove and fit the new coils. But with the front you need to disconnect them so you can drop the diff low enough. Easy to do, just re-attach and bleed. You can use them until you get extended ones, just don't flex it up.


I went 6months with out extended brake line's - never had a issue :wink:

As other have said, jack stands, trolley jack and spanner's/socket's etc....away you go.

I can swap 4 coils and 4 shocks in less than a 1 hour now with just those basic tools :lol: I've only done it a dozen time's now :lol:

tanshi wrote:
im thinking Jimny, or a patrol as no one else would put 80mm of lift in a car and think its a good idea.


Care to elaborate please?

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 1:14 am 
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monley wrote:
As other have said, jack stands, trolley jack and spanner's/socket's etc....away you go.


but about the caster bushes :? it shouldnt have a special tool for it??

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 7:10 am 
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If you got a set of longer brake hoses fit them first this is only with the 3"lift, not needed on the 2" lift.
You will also need to fit caster correction bushes+rear shock brackets .
Next (WD40)all the nuts and bolts on the shocks for about 2 days before starting.
Start with the back axle,undo the wheel nuts a little,then jack up on the chassis on both sides and lower on to axle stands as near to the radius arms as possible , so the tyres are about 2" off the ground,now remove the wheels.
Next place the trolley jack in the middle of the axle, jack it up so you can remove the nuts+bolts from the shocks.
Next lower axle down and remove the old springs+shocks, you might need a mate to help you fit the new springs+shocks back on, or a length of wood to lever the axle down to get the new springs on.
Now do the the front the same way as the back.
When your finished CHECK all the nuts +bolts+ wheel nuts are tight.
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Post Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 7:40 am 
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BertZook wrote:
monley wrote:
As other have said, jack stands, trolley jack and spanner's/socket's etc....away you go.


but about the caster bushes :? it shouldnt have a special tool for it??



Oh yeah, hydraulic press for caster bushes.

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 8:35 am 
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tanshi wrote:
im thinking Jimny, or a patrol as no one else would put 80mm of lift in a car and think its a good idea.


Jimny's are lower then a Sierra stock for stock, and 80mm more track.

So if a Sierra owner has a 25mm BL, and 50mm lift springs, and a jimny owed puts in 80mm of lift it wouldn't be as high as a Sierra and wider then a Sierra.

Jimny's are going to blow up like sierras, it will all take time ;)

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 9:46 am 
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You've changed 8O

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 9:53 am 
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31zook wrote:
tanshi wrote:
im thinking Jimny, or a patrol as no one else would put 80mm of lift in a car and think its a good idea.


Jimny's are lower then a Sierra stock for stock, and 80mm more track.

So if a Sierra owner has a 25mm BL, and 50mm lift springs, and a jimny owed puts in 80mm of lift it wouldn't be as high as a Sierra and wider then a Sierra.

Jimny's are going to blow up like sierras, it will all take time ;)

im hopping on the jimny bandwagon!

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 11:40 am 
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Jimny
Front: 1355 mm
Rear: 1365 mm

Sierra WT
Front 1340mm
Rear 1350mm

That 15mm wouldnt count for that extra height i dont think..

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 11:45 am 
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Where did you get those from dan?

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 11:49 am 
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viewtopic.php?f=17&t=7678

RIKSTR wrote:
Sierra WT
Front 1340mm
Rear 1350mm


neofitou wrote:
Jimny
Front: 1355 mm
Rear: 1365 mm
Wheel Base: 2250mm

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 3:25 pm 
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That's weird, I was only going off the fact that WT long side and Jim long side axles are 40mm different, so I figured it would be either side...

I might have to keep searching for Jim spec's cause they don't seem right to me...

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 3:34 pm 
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Redbook agrees with the jimny specs. But doesnt list Sierra.
http://www.redbook.com.au/cars/research ... 4294842795

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 3:41 pm 
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So do a few other websites.... Maybe the front pumpkin is offset 40mm one way :?

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 3:43 pm 
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Yeah thats what i was thinking. Shorter short side?

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 7:35 pm 
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the width wont be as much, but we still have a bit of a longer wheel base too ;)

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 8:37 pm 
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Okay...

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 8:41 pm 
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I'm looking forward to getting back to Au and building a big Jimny,
I don't think there will be much Jimny left though, none of the driveline will stay..

I'm still only going to have about 50mm of suspension lift max.
I agree, yes Jimnys are lower and wider than Sierras, but it doesnt mean sticking in wobbly 80mm lift is a good idea, but they sell them the op's question as to how hard they are to install

It's pretty much been established that it's not hard and can easily be achieved with basic tools, however at a minimum: longer brake lines and caster correction will be needed for this lift as well as adjustable panhards being a good idea.

I hope that others come across this thread and think twice before buying an 80mm lift kit as thier first attempt and modifying thier car, but I'm too drunk right now to be posting on forums right now and to be more useful with the debate as to why.

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 9:30 pm 
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I dont see what's with all hate on the 80mm lift :roll:

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 9:40 pm 
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monley wrote:
I dont see what's with all hate on the 80mm lift :roll:


me neither :roll:

they all are "yeh 50mm its perfect pppfff I mean cmon.... but 80mm that sh&* crazy!!!!!!!!!!"..... ve u guys grab a ruler and actually see wht 30mm actually look like :P


and yeh of course a sierra with 2"lift and 1" of BL is acceptable... or with just with either the 2" lift or body...... but a 3" lift on a jimny is crazy???... :roll:

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