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Post Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 5:47 pm 
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Hey all i am getting chromos soon......but was thinking last night....

the cv breaks because it is the weakest link....right?

so what breaks if chromos are in there? hubs or diffs?

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 5:49 pm 
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Hub bolts, R7P's, transfer gears, maybe uni-joints. If you don't rape its ass offroad, then just about everything should be ok.

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 7:40 pm 
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mmmmm sounds like i would rather do a cv! haha guess i will get some and see how they go! everyone swears by them....

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 7:44 pm 
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I blew up a ring gear under a LOT of load that isn't of the norm.

Flogged it on lots of high traction surfaces without issue. 34's though, make sure your diff is up to scratch, be wary on the pedal.

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 7:44 pm 
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Hub bolts. Take spares.

Steve

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 8:46 pm 
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SierraDan wrote:
I blew up a ring gear under a LOT of load that isn't of the norm.

Flogged it on lots of high traction surfaces without issue. 34's though, make sure your diff is up to scratch, be wary on the pedal.


Im on 34s too.... and i seem to get frustrated when i cant drive something......and hit it harder and harder!haha

Steve what does it do? blow the hub off? i have broken a standard cv and it took the hub with it! was thinkin a chromo would just distroy what is in there? only happened the once where the hub packed it in aswell.....but yeah

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 8:48 pm 
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I meant with you. With 34's.

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 10:06 pm 
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Just because you are upgrading to chromos it won't mean that you will be invincible. I've broken a set of chromo's and your twice as crazy as me Nath... So good luck buddy...

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 6:45 am 
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Get a solid pinion spacer made up when you install the chromo's

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 6:56 am 
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I fitted CrMo's and subsequently broke a set of locking hub bolts(1), a rear uni joint(2), a rear ring & pinion(3)

1. Snapped all the bolts flush with the bearing hub, carrying spares wouldn't have helped as I couldn't remove the broken bits in the bush anyway.Pics in my build theread somewhere. I replaced all the Grade 8 bolts with Grade 12.9 and never had another breakage.

2. Rear uni snapped a trunnion but I doubt that was because of the CrMo's, just giving it heaps on a very steep rock face.

3. Rear ring and pinion had just had its day.

Fit the CrMo's and enjoy. Upgrade the hub bolts too.

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 7:00 am 
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Yep, hub bolts, a pin punch or tiny chisel will help get them out in the bush. Check there tight before every trip

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 7:14 am 
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want33s wrote:
Fit the CrMo's and enjoy. Upgrade the hub bolts too.


I'm going to disagree with this. We've all left our hub bolts stock. (although I think Dank has gone to studs rather than bolts)

Our reasoning is that hub bolts are quick and easy to swap trackside - they're the easiest "fuse" to fix. We've had no trouble fishing out the broken bits with a pin punch/little screwdriver. If there was a meaningful upgrade in hub bolt strength, it might be enough to move the breakage point to somewhere that's not as easy to fix trackside, like a R&P. Even a uni is significantly more fiddle to change trackside than hub bolts.

When we've done bolts we've been being pretty silly, so for us, in Victorian conditions, I think they break at about the right point.

As an aside, those of us running floaters are using 12.9 unbrakos on the rear drive flanges and have had no problem with breakage.


Oh - DONT APPLY LOCTITE TO THE HUB BOLTS - you won't be able to get the broken bits out on the track.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 8:40 am 
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hey steve - how does a pin punch and small screwdriver get a hub bolt out? When i go crmo front i'll need to carry hub bolts and know how to get them out just in case!

also - where are you sourcing replacement bolts? i'd like to put fresh ones in when its first done so i know theyre all dandy.

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 8:58 am 
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They snap clean of at the hub. So you have enough room in there to jag an edge with the punch and just tap it out enough till ya can get ya fingers on it or pliers.

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 9:15 am 
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I've found with my Vitara that the driver is usually the weakest link. :oops:
Could be true for other cars, too. :thefinger:

Every time you go near a wreck, grab a handful of hub bolts.
Never seen new ones, but they must exist. :?:

I've only ever broke one overtightening during assembly. :roll:

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 9:32 am 
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sogone wrote:
They snap clean of at the hub. So you have enough room in there to jag an edge with the punch and just tap it out enough till ya can get ya fingers on it or pliers.


This.

I thought it was going to be impossible, but it turns out they're not hard to get started.

You can buy stud kits for toyotas pretty cheaply, but when we're at the wreckers we go on the scrounge.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 10:02 am 
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ahhh ok, so you're just doing the door hinge chisel trick on a smaller scale =) haha

my mate works in nuts and bolts, if i ever remember i'll see if he can source me new ones - the stock ones are grade 8 yeah?

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 10:09 am 
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I think its the cone shaped washers that are the hard to find bit,
bolt looks just like any bolt.

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 10:46 am 
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alien wrote:
ahhh ok, so you're just doing the door hinge chisel trick on a smaller scale =) haha

my mate works in nuts and bolts, if i ever remember i'll see if he can source me new ones - the stock ones are grade 8 yeah?


They're automotive grade 7, I've seen a comparison strength chart between JIS and "normal" grades but I can't recall the relationship now.

Christover is right though, I'd the cone washers that are the difficult bit.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 11:05 am 
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Ask benT were he gets the his bolts and come washers from.

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 1:29 pm 
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I like Steve's reasoning in having standard bolts as a 'fuse" so to speak, getting the weakest point out to where it is easiest to fix is a sensible approach.

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 1:57 pm 
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I was speaking to a guy on the trip on the weekend in regard to patrols blowing hubs up. They're making drive flanges that won't break and drilling the hub bolts to save CV's and pinions

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 2:35 pm 
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zooky08 wrote:
Ask benT were he gets the his bolts and come washers from.

From china I think.

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 5:11 pm 
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i have a hand full of hub bolts here from when i brought the complete front for spares....

will get the cromos in a few weeks!

cheers guys!

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 5:24 pm 
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actually while i still have you all.....

with hte chromos the hub end is the same spline count as stock?

and i got a rear here with a lockrite in it i housing and all i can bolt that straight in the front and im set?

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 5:39 pm 
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Yep if locker is a,rear one it'll go in the front with cromos. Nothing else doesn't need to be changed

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 6:15 pm 
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sweet!

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 9:58 pm 
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From memory the Toyota stud kits are about $60 a side, not exactly cheap to buy 2 sets and 1 spare.

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 10:08 pm 
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birko wrote:
From memory the Toyota stud kits are about $60 a side, not exactly cheap to buy 2 sets and 1 spare.

Last time I got some from Don Kyatt they were only about $1.80 a set of stud, cone washer, split washer and nut ? My wheel hub is too flogged out now after breaking them too often, so I ended up welding the free wheeling hub to the wheel hub, problem solved for now.

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 10:53 pm 
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These the ones?
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=120848931997
Ebay prices from $20-$35 a set

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