[Red89]

I have recently made up a new cradle for the transfer case which raises it above the chassis rails and lowers the front of the case as I had binding issues with the front output uni, however now I have a feeling the front shaft is going to hit the crossmember on full flex. Has anyone trimmed up the crossmember without affecting the strength at all and how much was pruned off it ? Lowrange use to sell an aftermarket high clearance one by Rock4xfabrication however I couldnt find it on their site and from the pics I am not sure how strong it would have been anyway. Has anyone made up a new basic crossmember they would like to share ?

[shep]

I am going to be cutting mine out and bolting in a auto gearbox crossmember, can take a few pics if it will help

[Fatzook]

The pics aren't good enout to tell if the front shaft will hit or not, but I can tell you that your transfer cradle/ mount thing will be a PITA to get out.

You would have been better off having the mounting tags higher on the chassis rail, and have the frame come up from underneath instead of sitting on those tags. It means you will have to slide it forwards or backwards to drop the frame.

Just my 2 cents.

[Red89]

shep wrote:

I am going to be cutting mine out and bolting in a auto gearbox crossmember, can take a few pics if it will help

Mate, I will take any ideas I can get

Fatzook wrote:

The pics aren't good enout to tell if the front shaft will hit or not, but I can tell you that your transfer cradle/ mount thing will be a PITA to get out.

You would have been better off having the mounting tags higher on the chassis rail, and have the frame come up from underneath instead of sitting on those tags. It means you will have to slide it forwards or backwards to drop the frame.

Just my 2 cents.

The floor pan has been modified to help and the tags will be trimmed once its all finished to help but yes it is a bit of a pain and will probably be worse once the Roctoy ring eventually arrives and gets bolted on. Hopefully I wont need to take it out too often.

The reason I didnt do it the way you suggested or use the tube method that a lot of people use is because I didnt want the bolts to be taking the whole weight of the case and torque, also with it having a bash plate bolted underneath it that would have also meant the bolts would have had to cope with hits as well.

[superduki]

I had the same problem in my LWB Sierra once I put a double cardin lux front tailshaft in, I trimmed the crossmember basically at the gearbox mount, and took it 90 degrees down, then 90 degrees flat under the chassis rail. Obviously you want to keep it above or inline with the bottom of the rails? Mine's not built to be doing the extreme work your's does, but will see generic / hard 4wd tracks. Mine actually sits below the chassis rails, but now I've had my car on a flex ramp (basic ruf setup) the tailshaft goes no where near the crossmember on full flex and I would of got away with running it practically inline with the rails.

I just welded some flat plate into the 90 degree corners to provide more strength. I haven't checked it offroad yet as I am still waiting on a lane change test for rego, but it passed engineering fine.

[superduki]

hope that helps. Basic but practical.

[TZAR]

Red89 wrote:

Lowrange use to sell an aftermarket high clearance one by Rock4xfabrication however I couldnt find it on their site and from the pics I am not sure how strong it would have been anyway.

this one???
http://www2.izook.com/?page_id=161

[Red89]

Cheers Superduki I was hoping to be able to get away with just modifying the drivers side.

Yer Tzar that's the one, from all reports they are good but I would be worried about the ungusseted plate flexing driving over rough corrugations etc.

[ajsr]

TZAR wrote:

Red89 wrote:

Lowrange use to sell an aftermarket high clearance one by Rock4xfabrication however I couldnt find it on their site and from the pics I am not sure how strong it would have been anyway.

this one???
http://www2.izook.com/?page_id=161

imo
this would have quite a bit less strengh than the factory job.

[Red89]

I have no fear of Suzuki from ever stealing my ideas but at least it is nowhere near hitting anything now, I had to cut a hole in the footwells which will be patched and I reused the stock passenger side mount brace and centre section. It needs another bolt in either end and the drivers side mount has been since gusseted, should probably plate the join above the centre mount but it looks strong enough. May remake it later on for some more aesthetically pleasing but for the time being if it solves my transfer problems I will be happy.

[joeblow]

I run them above the shaft.

[ajsr]

joeblow wrote:

I run them above the shaft.

any better pictures JB?

[BlueSuzy]

You have too much front drop

Im running a modified crossmember flat with the chassis, but my transfer is lifted also through the floor. Comes close to rubbing on full drop out, but flexing its fine.

A toyota double cardon gives me more clearance as it changes the shaft pivot point/angle, But it just binds with my drop

[SierraDan]

I like that one.