[zukenutter]

Joe, I used 50mm x 2mm for my camper trailer chassis but also relied on the upper frame work to give it rigidity and strength. In the end I think the combination was overkill.

I also have a 75x50x5mm spine running 2/3 the length of the trailer which then extends forward as the draw bar with two angled braces just to make sure

I think 40x40 would be OK but would need a bit of bracing, If I built again I'd stick with 50x50.


By the way nice calendar

[jdk81]

Joe, are you putting sides on the trailer? These add a heap of strength.
What is the width of trailer you are going to make?

Generally the floor is easy to go overkill and add stupid weight.
A few extra cross-members means your design is stronger and you save weight.
Generally its the cross-members which will limit your factor of safety, unless its loaded to the hilt and running on bump-stops.

a 50x50x2.5 chassis, 1.6mm floor and sides, with 50x50x5 angle will weigh around 145 kg, not incl axle, springs and wheels.
The load capacity is around 6500kg (FoS around 1).
The suspension will bottom out, the axle will fail etc.
But it means, the extra it of weight, saves your a lot of risk etc.

A 30x30x1.6, 1.6 floor and sides, with 30x30x3 angle, will weigh around 110 kg, not incl axle and springs etc.
Load capacity is 1750 kg, FoS is 1. If 400 kg loaded is max weight, you are looking around 1750/400 = approx 4.

General FoS for off-road is accepted as 3.
When the springs are properly sized, the springs will bottom out first, when this occurs, the load on the chassis can go through the roof.
I'm looking at a trailer
loaded off-road weight around 400kg, design capacity is 2000 kg, and road use max capacity is around 1000 kg.
The 30x30x1.6 is technically fine, but it doesn't give any allowances for wear and tear damage to the chassis etc over time, or momentary stupidity.

I would think a 40x40x2 main chassis, with 40x40x4 angle as cross members, 1.6 sides and floors (make them easy to remove etc), and 50x50x3 draw bar would be ample.
But this is just my opinion, and I am often wrong, so don't listen to me.
Materials used for rhs to be open and get it hot dipped.
My proposed build has the sides high enough to store jerry cans on their side, track width is sierra, will probably tweak it a little more.

EDIT: with no sides, a 50x50x2 flatbed trailer is around 2000kg capacity, but cant remember exactly, Ive lost the FEA file (and it depends on design etc).

[Joe]

Thanks Zukenutter and JDK

It wont have sides on it but it will have a head board for the quads front tyres to sit up against so i might put some side bars on that taper down to the back corners and yes it will have cross members.
I'm not to sure on the size yet ill wait till i pick up the bike later this week but it will only be big enough for the bike to sit on so not that wide or long.

[Joe]

Have decided to go with 50x50 for the chassis and draw arm just to be on the safe side
Also instead of a flat floor ill get some sheet metal folded up into some wheel runners like this one

[Joe]

I was in the right place at the right time yesterday arvo

Got it for less then what it would of cost me to build it plus rego ect and it's only nine months old

[christover1]

Nice Find

[atari4x4]

score

[Joe]

Cheers guys
I have five trailers at my house atm only three of them are mine though

[christover1]

Stud pattern looks to match?

[atari4x4]

i'm guessing it would be a ford or holden 5 stud

[jdk81]

nice score

[Joe]

There dunnydoor rims

[zukenutter]

spoa and hub swap in your future?

[Joe]

zukenutter wrote:

spoa and hub swap in your future?

Yeah that will be happening soon enough

[atari4x4]

no ramps?

i wanna see you jump & land it on the trailer while doing a superman sprocket grab.

[Joe]

There will be no sprocket grabs
Ill make some ramps in a few weeks once i get tired of lifting the bike on and off

[SierraDan]

Any body know of a trailer with sierra springs and flop shackles?

[christover1]

I bowed to peer group pressure,
although I did try to think of something original.
Bought one of these 4wd shade thingys, 2nd hand off ebay.
Great for an extra room on the camper,
when I'm in one spot for a while.
Altho I did manage to buy a different brand,
with a different door/porch bit.
so I still a little unique

I was only getting ideas, wasn't intending to buy yet.
Oh and it is a DELUXE so it must be good

[atari4x4]

can i stand around & watch you put it up?

[Chop]

christover1 wrote:

I bowed to peer group pressure,
although I did try to think of something original.
Bought one of these 4wd shade thingys, 2nd hand off ebay.
Great for an extra room on the camper,
when I'm in one spot for a while.
Altho I did manage to buy a different brand,
with a different door/porch bit.
so I still a little unique

I was only getting ideas, wasn't intending to buy yet.
Oh and it is a DELUXE so it must be good

Haha given into the simple goodness of the RV shade! Theyre great, and don't forget a coouple of adjustable poles and 4 extra guy ropes for free standing joy!

[christover1]

I'm going to practice long before I erect it in public

Probably make it fit camper side, front, car and free standing.

At least I'm part of the IN crowd now

[zukenutter]

Is it the "pops up like an umbrella" type?

[christover1]

zukenutter wrote:

Is it the "pops up like an umbrella" type?

Nah, that would be nice.
Its the struggle as people laugh at you type

[zukenutter]

Yeah but you pay for the umbrella privilege.

[GeckoXL7]

Quickly put this together last night, bit of a rush job as heading to the flinders Friday morning, and just wanted to secure my bat better than on the side of the trailer and have everything Neat.

I will be carpeting inside the camper trailer tray later on including the bat box just so it looks nice and keeps things clean and easier to slide things in and out.

Box has a 165amp hour deep cycle Bat, 30Amp Solar Regulator with 4 stage charging and LCD to monitor bat status and what amps are going in and out, pluss for now just a 300watt Pure sine wave inverter, may put in a 1500w one but have a generator so see no point as yet but would be nice not to carry the stinky thing around that often leaks in the trailer.

Pic is not a finished product as yet but rough idea where its going



and the trailer its going into (need to put electric brakes, Polly block Hitch, and Shocks on it)

[christover1]

Happy with it.
All the bits are in the box and all are in good nick.
Sometimes a used ebay item is a win
Bit easier to assemble than I expected.
"Roof" section assembles first, on the ground.
Then hook it to car/tent/poles whatever.
Then the uprights have easy fitted poles with clip ons,
easier than slide throughs.
Has entrances/porches on 3 sides if desired.
Came with porch poles I can use for erection without car if wanted.

[atari4x4]

looks great chris, same set up as the ones we have, with the sleeves for the roof section & the clips, do you think it was easier to do with no one watching?

[christover1]

atari4x4 wrote:

looks great chris, same set up as the ones we have,
with the sleeves for the roof section & the clips,
do you think it was easier to do with no one watching?

A big YES to that .

Also easier without wind, rain, darkness, foggy brain etc.

True test will be under pressure, with a Bay 13 watching on .

I need to wait for dry weather, to see what, if anything, I need to do to fit it to camper.

It looks like it would be tall enough to fit over the camper door as one choice.
Making it an entrance hall.

The uprights are stiffer alloy poles,
And the joiner is fixed to tent with elastic.
But it does look pretty much the same.

Only mine don't color match my Zook, so yours is cooler

[atari4x4]

yeah i reckon that would be better than the way i had mine set up at beachport over the draw bar, although it was handy having the esky sitting on the draw bar for extra bench space & keeping it out of the sun etc.

[SierraDan]

SierraDan wrote:

Any body know of a trailer with sierra springs and flop shackles?