[GeckoXL7]

KK, What you think of this, also quite cheap they are drums, also saw disks but considerably more expensive and either Mechanical or hydrolic.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10-TRAILER-E ... 27c91dc38c

and are polly blocks are worth while investment? I am starting to hate the old ball type, tried getting the trailer off when bogged and was a real effort.

[atari4x4]

personally, i wouldn't go off a formed road without some sort of off road hitch.

[ball]

GeckoXL7 wrote:

KK, What you think of this, also quite cheap they are drums, also saw disks but considerably more expensive and either Mechanical or hydrolic.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10-TRAILER-E ... 27c91dc38c

and are polly blocks are worth while investment? I am starting to hate the old ball type, tried getting the trailer off when bogged and was a real effort.

That is a cheap kit still, I would guess that it is Chinese parts. Make sure they supply you with the correct bearings for your axle and upgrade to the Japanese bearings.

[ball]

This one is getting close to the right price for a genuine 2 ton kit

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HEAVY-DUTY-2 ... 27c5d4b4c6

[atari4x4]

Mr Gecko go & see the guys at SA Trailer & Chassis out at Cavan, damn cheap & awesome service & advice. http://www.satrailer.com.au/

then go across the road to the Cavan Steak Van & get you steak sandwich on, nom nom nom. (fark now i'm hanging for a steak sandwich)

[GeckoXL7]

My only concern with drum electric brakes is how well will they work after if go through a creek crossing. You can get the solenoids pretty cheap, but wouldn't want anything jamming up or burning out.

Lol, might check them out. Cant beat thoughs steak sandwich's!, haven't been back for a while mate kept peeping in the pub window....
Beats my sausage roll sitting in the freezer that will go soggy when heat it in the microwave...

[christover1]

ball wrote:

Anchor plates to weld to the axles to mount brakes are cheap ($15 each) and they aren't hard to fit.

If you already have a decent axle just buy drums and backing plates and it will be cheaper than the one listed above.

Realistically this is probably my best choice.
Though brake drums available would need to suit my axle/stubaxles,
mine being a 39mm ish round axle, and I think a holden bearing?.
And hopefully come in Zook/F100 type stud pattern.
Not looked into that yet.

[atari4x4]

have you've got drums on the rear of the XL-7 like the Vits & GV's?, can't see trailer brakes being affected enough to cause a problem.

[christover1]

GeckoXL7 wrote:

KK, What you think of this, also quite cheap they are drums, also saw disks but considerably more expensive and either Mechanical or hydrolic.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10-TRAILER-E ... 27c91dc38c

and are polly blocks are worth while investment? I am starting to hate the old ball type, tried getting the trailer off when bogged and was a real effort.

Found them in my huntings.
Possibly achievable on my buget/

Decent off road hitch is mandatory.
Off road can go beyond a normal balls movement range
(which may bust stuff ?)

[ball]

christover1 wrote:

ball wrote:

Anchor plates to weld to the axles to mount brakes are cheap ($15 each) and they aren't hard to fit.

If you already have a decent axle just buy drums and backing plates and it will be cheaper than the one listed above.

Realistically this is probably my best choice.
Though brake drums available would need to suit my axle/stubaxles,
mine being a 39mm ish round axle, and I think a holden bearing?.
And hopefully come in Zook/F100 type stud pattern.
Not looked into that yet.

yep to all above.

39 round axle will be the LM (holden) set. The drums for the ford and holden bearings are the same just the cups are different in the drums.

Stud pattern should be available in f100.

One thing to remember though is if you fit bigger wheels you will need to de rate the bearing capacity. I can't recall exactly what it is but 20% rings a bell.

A holden bearing set will only be rated to 750kg's

[christover1]

I would look into converting my Vits old rear brakes, if the drums/brakes/wheel cylinders weren't totally stuffed.





Not really, don't like to mess with braking stuff

[GeckoXL7]

Yeah i do, checked them two weeks ago, car hit 170,000k's original shoes and look only half used. Has ABS on rear too.

They are never a problem, just more concerned about cheap drums having cheap solenoids.

Will check that trailer place out.

[christover1]

ball wrote:

39 round axle will be the LM (holden) set. The drums for the ford and holden bearings are the same just the cups are different in the drums.

Stud pattern should be available in f100.

One thing to remember though is if you fit bigger wheels you will need to de rate the bearing capacity. I can't recall exactly what it is but 20% rings a bell.

A holden bearing set will only be rated to 750kg's

Just checked my spare bearing, yes it is a holden LM set.
Bearings have held up to the 31's well over the years, so should be fine with same bearings.
Don't intend to overload the trailers 500kg rego.
(A figure chosen by me)

[ball]

GeckoXL7 wrote:

Yeah i do, checked them two weeks ago, car hit 170,000k's original shoes and look only half used. Has ABS on rear too.

They are never a problem, just more concerned about cheap drums having cheap solenoids.

Will check that trailer place out.

there are no solenoids in electric brakes

[ball]

christover1 wrote:

ball wrote:

39 round axle will be the LM (holden) set. The drums for the ford and holden bearings are the same just the cups are different in the drums.

Stud pattern should be available in f100.

One thing to remember though is if you fit bigger wheels you will need to de rate the bearing capacity. I can't recall exactly what it is but 20% rings a bell.

A holden bearing set will only be rated to 750kg's

Just checked my spare bearing, yes it is a holden LM set.
Bearings have held up to the 31's well over the years, so should be fine with same bearings.
Don't intend to overload the trailers 500kg rego.
(A figure chosen by me)

If you are under 500kgs then you shouldn't have a problem

I had a trailer that used to come in that had the SL set with big tyres that would be up for a bearing adjustment every 1000km's and they would only get 2 or 3 adjustments before the bearings were shagged. Put a big bearing axle under it and haven't seen it since.

[GeckoXL7]

ball wrote:

GeckoXL7 wrote:

Yeah i do, checked them two weeks ago, car hit 170,000k's original shoes and look only half used. Has ABS on rear too.

They are never a problem, just more concerned about cheap drums having cheap solenoids.

Will check that trailer place out.

there are no solenoids in electric brakes

Well magnet then Its similar but not the same as a solenoid, still uses a coil to generate a magnetic field when a current passes through it. If not insulated well enough coil can short out. Im just over thinking.. came to the afternoon, brain switched off and now farting.

[shep]

I am going to stick cable operated disc brakes on my Suzuki trailer the same setup on my boat trailer works awesome, my Sierra stops as quick as normal when towing 1200kg

[ball]

GeckoXL7 wrote:

ball wrote:

GeckoXL7 wrote:

Yeah i do, checked them two weeks ago, car hit 170,000k's original shoes and look only half used. Has ABS on rear too.

They are never a problem, just more concerned about cheap drums having cheap solenoids.

Will check that trailer place out.

there are no solenoids in electric brakes

Well magnet then Its similar but not the same as a solenoid, still uses a coil to generate a magnetic field when a current passes through it. If not insulated well enough coil can short out. Im just over thinking.. came to the afternoon, brain switched off and now farting.

new magnets are $20 or $30

I have yet to see one fail that wasn't melted due to some idiot leaving the handbrake on.

[shep]

How many braked trailers have ya worked on this year ball?

[ball]

shep wrote:

How many fucked braked trailers have ya worked on this year ball?

fixed it for you.

Lots!!!!!

[shep]

Haha sucks to be you

[ball]

shep wrote:

Haha sucks to be you

not really, sucks to be the silly bastards that don't do their scheduled maintenance on the trailers and caravans then get stuck here.

[atari4x4]

^^^ hahha, what's worse is they're probably all grey nomads that know everything about anything.

[ball]

atari4x4 wrote:

^^^ hahha, what's worse is they're probably all grey nomads that know everything about anything.

yep

it's funny having a mechanic or "maintenance fitter" tell me that they serviced the bearings before they left and when I strip them down, I find fresh grease in the front bearing and grotty old burnt grease in the rear.

A good tip to remember is don't be stingy when buying grease. Get a good high temp bearing grease. I use castrol HTB and it seems to survive in the heat here the best.

[GeckoXL7]

Haha, so if do get drum electric brakes worth while carrying around a spare few magnets then.

My brain is thinking back to the old days but still happens now when the coils ( Transformer, solenoids) where insulated in paper or wax paper, soon as it generated a bit heat, paper would burn, coil shorts out and soon ya have a fire. Am a old Electronics engineer / Computer engineer so seen quite a few.

Looked at the Hydraulic / Electric brakes, look interesting and said to be best of both worlds, but the Hydraulic pump / Actuator is expensive.

What you think if Timken Red Bearing Grease?

[ball]

GeckoXL7 wrote:

Haha, so if do get drum electric brakes worth while carrying around a spare few magnets then.

My brain is thinking back to the old days but still happens now when the coils ( Transformer, solenoids) where insulated in paper or wax paper, soon as it generated a bit heat, paper would burn, coil shorts out and soon ya have a fire. Am a old Electronics engineer / Computer engineer so seen quite a few.

Looked at the Hydraulic / Electric brakes, look interesting and said to be best of both worlds, but the Hydraulic pump / Actuator is expensive.

What you think if Timken Red Bearing Grease?

spare magnets won't help if you leave the hand brake on. It usually toast everything inside. The last couple I have had come in has melted the die cast aluminium and pretty much writes off that whole backing plate/drum and stub axle.

There will be no problem with the quality of the Timken grease but will it suit the application. Make sure it is a high temp grease. Most of the wheel bearings I service have regular grease that melts and breaks down to an oil like consistency in the heat.

[christover1]

Think I will do without the hand brake, don't like toasted bits.

[GeckoXL7]

Crap now that is hot! Think if that happens often they would put a auto reset thermal fuse in there.

I use this stuff... I looked at everything and thought this was the best, was a bit more expensive than the others. But really grease dont cost that much in the first place so no need to go skimpy on it, used it on my front bearings and will use on the Trailer if up to the job.
http://www.timken.com/en-us/products/lu ... ring.aspx#

[ball]

GeckoXL7 wrote:

Crap now that is hot! Think if that happens often they would put a auto reset thermal fuse in there.

I use this stuff... I looked at everything and thought this was the best, was a bit more expensive than the others. But really grease dont cost that much in the first place so no need to go skimpy on it, used it on my front bearings and will use on the Trailer if up to the job.
http://www.timken.com/en-us/products/lu ... ring.aspx#

The castrol stuff is rated for a higher continuous temp. Things shouldn't get that hot but it will give you a higher safety margin.

http://www.tds.castrol.com.au/pdf/9605_HTB%20Grease.pdf

[Bobsan]

I have just purchased a mechanical drum brake and axle setup in F100 stud pattern, received 2 quotes, one from SA Trailer & Chassis, the other from Holroyd and Goad in Melbourne SA trailer & chassis were the cheaper of the 2 but do not organize freight. allowing for freight they would be only approx $30 cheaper I went with Holroyd and Goad as they had a quick turn around and closer to home.