[KEENSY85]

Still alive saved bird the other day to lol

[DarkHorse]

Bit of Vitara flavour to mix up this thread:

I'm running 265/75/16 (32ish) on my LWB Vit, with about 3" of susp lift and 2" BL. Lift has pulled the rear axle close to the front edge of the guard, which I can't cut because it's less than an inch to the door. Solution - longer arms to move the diff back, and cut what I need out of the rear edge.

What I didn't want was to hack half a foot out of the bumper, I don't like the way the big chop distorts the curve of the arch. Makes the cut obvious and is just a little inelegant for mine. I'm not trying to fit 35s in there (yet ) so I didn't need to go that extreme.

This what I was dealing with:

Inside the plastic bumper there is a steel panel that the mudflaps and inner guard bolts to. Behind that is a slightly more susbstantial panel that it part of the bumper structure. I decided to use this as a reference, as I could start to 'stretch' the curve from the black strip and end up with about an inch off at the bottom. Conveniently, I could leave the return of the steel in place and have something to screw the inner guard and flare to when done.
Outside:

Inside showing the panels - white is the structure that I used as a guide, black is what got chopped:

Welded up:

Flare screwed back on:

Result:

Ride height:

Tyre just squeezes in:

[KEENSY85]

It's a pity there's no room on urs to take some off the sill as well

[DarkHorse]

I took some of the mud shelf out, but yeah - door is too close to really do anything with that corner.

[KEENSY85]

I did this yesterday it still looks a little rough but I Havn . Sprayed body deadener to seal it or anything and I still need drill some holes for drainage for water to escape from behind the headlight buket, only problem I have know is this front will probably only ever fit the front of this car as we're the rust is in the firewall ( in the curve in the wheel well iv brought it back to flat and chopped the sill by about 50 mm, so when gaurd will know bolt u to two extra bolts rather than just 1down the bottom above the sill. Any way I'm just starting to sound confusing so here's a pic

[KEENSY85]

Here's the a pic with the wheel on (31'') and on new efs rears no body lift

[pezz]

bigger pic keens?

[KEENSY85]

Any better?

[95zook]

Is there anyone in Brisbane that does this kind of work, thinking about getting 31s on my sierra with a 2" lift but I don't have any welding knowledge

[KEENSY85]

It's very time consuming mate post up an add ask but be very carfull, or go see a panel beater but it will cost $$$$$$$$$$lotz unfortunately

[KEENSY85]

pezz wrote:

bigger pic keens?

Or search my nt

[slowsierra]

i am just about to start my virtual lift on the lwb sierra, just want to know what is the best way to cut it so i get a neat/even finish. i am going to do it the same way keensy85 did his and weld in sections. i am not to sure i will be able to cut it that neat with an angle grinder, what other options do i have

thanks greg

[tanshi]

tin snips, jig saw,

[KEENSY85]

Get ur grinder out and practice on some scrap material cutting shapes out I just took my time and followed the existing line and I used a skinny cutting discount once u weld ur new material in it kinda tidys up the slight imperfections from when u cut, oh and see my pic of the rear wheel?

Make sure u bolt ur wheels on to see how it looks iv got to take more out of the sill to make it look more natural

[shakes]

grinder is far too harsh plus will burn little metal fragments into your paint = rust.

Sierra panels are paper thin, tin snips all the way. Do take KEENSY85's info on following the bodylines.

[Fatzook]

I've done 4 virtual lifts with a grinder now. If you know how to use one, it is just as effective as a jigsaw, but far easier and quicker. Tin snips are for roof sheets. Not panel work.

[KEENSY85]

shakes wrote:

grinder is far too harsh plus will burn little metal fragments into your paint = rust.

Sierra panels are paper thin, tin snips all the way. Do take KEENSY85's info on following the bodylines.

Sorry mate I disagree its not that thin man u can even weld the stuff. I don't even think I could cut it as good using tin snips or a jigsaw. If ur not comfortable using the grinder for it, practice makes perfect

[DarkHorse]

More Vit flava:

[scottiej]

Here's 2 from the UK

First a friends that I helped him do









We always leave a lip on the outer edge so you can remount the original arches if wanted.





Fully welded, primed & painted











And here's mine, I originally did it like the above, However I wanted to lower the ride height and not have to limit my up trave; after fitting YJ springs.

[KEENSY85]

Well cool nice pics

[shakes]

KEENSY85 wrote:

shakes wrote:

grinder is far too harsh plus will burn little metal fragments into your paint = rust.

Sierra panels are paper thin, tin snips all the way. Do take KEENSY85's info on following the bodylines.

Sorry mate I disagree its not that thin man u can even weld the stuff. I don't even think I could cut it as good using tin snips or a jigsaw. If ur not comfortable using the grinder for it, practice makes perfect

I get to use grinders and welders in some pretty damn sensitive area's. Depending on the material, mechanical cutting means are usually used, funnily enough I'm pretty damn handy with tin snips. Can get a quicker and neater cut with a good pair of tin snips. It wont need to be filed, the material will be as uniform as a sierra panel thickness gets, you wont overheat and warp the panel from getting over enthusiastic.

Not everyone thinks about the spray from a grinder and not everyone works in a space where a grinder is practical. I don't disagree if you have the skill's/space/knowledge that its a bad thing. I'm pretty damn jaded from dealing with fuckwits all day today in the heat down here so my view of society is pretty low at the moment..

I don't see why you need to wave your dick about my skillset or ideas?

[scottiej]

KEENSY85 wrote:

Well cool nice pics

Thanks.

[Teracis]

Meanwhile scottiej, second last pic you have the shackle pin going through the bolt hole in the chassis, clever idea, how does it go wear and tear wise?

[KEENSY85]

Teracis wrote:

Meanwhile scottiej, second last pic you have the shackle pin going through the bolt hole in the chassis, clever idea, how does it go wear and tear wise?

Yep man what he said u got a build thread or something

[scottiej]

They are some bolt on chassis extensions I built for the YJ conversion, if you look closely you can see the lower bolt behind the shackle bolt, there are YJ bushes in the extensions. They are kind've like the bolt on ruf shackle hangers 2stroker makes but they bolt onto the outsides of the chassis rails to match the YJ spring width. I also drilled the mounting holes out to 12mm and sleeved the chassis to that it doesn't crush and for extra strength.

Here's my thread on zukikrawlers, The build thread on my forum is 43pages long this ones a bit shorter http://www.zukikrawlers.com/showthread.php?t=47414

But if you do want to see everything from start to finish here's the long one
http://www.suzukiclubuk.co.uk/forum1/vi ... f,22/t,12/

[slowsierra]

i have just started cutting the guards for the virtual lift. the pics below are of the drivers side front guard. i was just wanting to know what you guys did with these bits that hang down. does it look like i am doing the right thing?







any feed back or tips are welcome

thanks greg

[gvzookdriver]

Hammer time. Also did you check to see if your tyres clear the front of the clip under the headlights. Remember dont weld the front clip to the body.

[slowsierra]

thanks GV. yeah i checked it should clear the head light

[KEENSY85]

Yer spot on like gv said bolt ur wheels on and see if all tyrs clear and look good

[Teracis]

I'm in the middle of a guard chop at the moment, build thread will be updated with pics soon, this thread is great for ideas and information, I'll link the post in my build here for anyone else to see more pics!