[31zook]

driftke70 wrote:

no doubt gearing is a solution, i just wanted cold hard information to pursue.

31zook wrote:

1L case/4.16 reduction gears and the Sierra Tcase swap kit will get you sweet onroad (very drivable) and better then now offroad.

Cheapest option, perfect gearing.

What other info were you after?

[squibby]

Gearing - Install auto transfer case.

Engine - Install M15 or M16 non VVT's.

Do your homework on the Transfer case thing, I just know someone did that to a VVT jimny and it's about 10% lower gearing. Not sure about non VVT's though.

Regarding these two options. Engine is cheaper with regard to parts so if you do it yourself, go engine. Transfer case is cheaper with regard to labour, if you are paying someone to do it for you.

[31zook]

Non VVT gear boxes are different to VVT, they are a lower ratio the VVT, so not sure if the Tcase swap thing would work...

[zukenutter]

I think an auto TC would be too low for highway with 235s.
A standard 1.3 Sierra TC would be OK in a non VVT Jimny but swapping in 4.16 gear set would make it sweet/slightly lower than a stock Jimny

[christover1]

I ran my Sierra for many years on a 12% too low for highway set up.
It was fine, could happily do the speed limit, was perfect off road.
Never got a speeding ticket in it
1st year of owning the Vit which is over geared on highway, I got a ticket

[atari4x4]

31zook wrote:

driftke70 wrote:

no doubt gearing is a solution, i just wanted cold hard information to pursue.

31zook wrote:

1L case/4.16 reduction gears and the Sierra Tcase swap kit will get you sweet onroad (very drivable) and better then now offroad.

Cheapest option, perfect gearing.

What other info were you after?

how to fit 2 of the big bottles of nos maybe?

[driftke70]

i dont get it...

i can make this thing blaze 4th reliably if i wanted to but i just want road driving to be less lethargic. I think a combination of m15a and a sierra transfer is the go.

[atari4x4]

you wanted ideas on how to make it go faster... gearing or nos were my suggestions.

[driftke70]

also i feel like people are confusing where the engine starts making power with motors liking to be revved.

More revs = more wear and more fuel. The trick is to decrease the revs without increasing the loading of work.
The easiest way to do this is increase torque.

I am starting to get used to it though, i think my biggest fear is spending all day in low range at the beach.

[atari4x4]

suzuki's make their power high up in the rev range, hence people suggesting to rev it.

whats wrong with being in low range on the beach?

it takes a massive amount of load off the drivetrain & there isn't really any need to be doing 50+kph, i'll spend 4 days in the sand with out grabbing high range once.

[driftke70]

all engines make most of their power up high, its a deficiency in low end. Not a proficiency in top end. Its not a motorcycle motor.

my wt would only need 2wd high range form inskip around fraser and back in my driveway

Im not anti revs, especially when m15s are 300 bucks a pop. Just saying, some simple revisions could see talk in the mid increased making more usable motor.
I think the biggest thing is fueling, my experience with jimny motors is that they run quite rich in the low to mid, you can even smell it.

My jim is bit of an odball in that it is dual fuel. It has some issues on gas which I would like to look further into, I have zero experience with gas.

Whats the reliability like with sierra transfers

[atari4x4]

oh you're talking about the freeways that are QLD's beaches, buy a magna wagon.

[shep]

I %100 guarrentie that a 1.3 Suzuki doing 3300rpm@100kph will use a lot more fuel then if the same car was doing 3800+rpm@100kph.

It is a little revie motor that is pushing a brick not a Dino pushrod motor in something that has a little consideration for aerodynamics

Don't forget that your Sierra had a 12% gearing reduction over a stock sierra

[driftke70]

i think i will look into reduction gears/ sierra transfer

just a matter of time/money i guess!

[monley]

Or you could put stock size tyres back on for a quick fix....?

[Scales]

I have a non-vvt also mate. I only have 215's on mine and went with the WT swap (no gears, so 10% reduction) and that brought me back to the same acceleration characteristics (give or take) as the stock tyres. If you did the same, it would still be a big improvement and wouldnt hesitate off the line (mine would almost stall sometimes). 4.16 would be perfect IMO on 235's but only if you are unhappy with a stock WT, as your top end would obviously suffer.

As for engines, i'd steer clear of anything VVT as its going to be a mission in our cars wiring-wise. So go a non-vvt m15a I rekon rather than a m18a. But personally, im happy being a slow-poke in my zook. I dont have unrealistic expectations speed-wise and im happy to sit at 90-95 on the hwy and take my sweet time getting there, cranky p-plater teenagers behind me can get stuffed.

Just my 2c

[driftke70]

Yeah valid points,

monley the car didn't come with stock rims/tires, would be just as long winded and expensive acquiring those as it would a wt tc.

[JrZook]

driftke70 wrote:

I think the biggest thing is fueling, my experience with jimny motors is that they run quite rich in the low to mid, you can even smell it.

My jim is bit of an odball in that it is dual fuel. It has some issues on gas which I would like to look further into, I have zero experience with gas.

Whats the reliability like with sierra transfers

Are you sure this isn't an issue related to YOUR jimny engine? If you can smell that it runs quite rich then there is a significant issue! It's not a carb engine therefore in un-molested form the fueling is pretty darn spot on. I can guarantee that it didn't leave the factory in this manner....

In regards to the revs argument you need x amount of torque, to push a car with y drag and wind resistance at z speed. Jimny engines produce their peak torque upward of 4k rpm. If you find yourself not being able to reach the speed required in a certain gear under heavy throttle then the engine isn't producing sufficient torque. To correct this with the stock engine you have to re-gear. This can be accomplished by re-gearing or reducing the tire diameter which is effectively the same thing. Otherwise you're left with increasing the torque of the current engine at the lower RPM with other modifications or finding an engine that produces sufficient torque at the required rpms.

[driftke70]

based on a few motors i have dealt with in my younger years not my current thing, if anything it runs lean on gas.