[Jezza86]

Saturday morning i decided to put in a 2" body lift that's been siting around for awhile. mainly because i also have 6 30x9.5 km2's siting in the shed.
after reading here and a few other places on the net, and looking at the supplier site photos, i decided to give it a wack.
it could have ended better so here are my recommendations to anyone else 2" body lifting a jimny like my own (non-abs or power steer 2010)

start with extending the brake lines, its way easier to get to the rear right line with the wheel off.
make sure you have a quality 10mm open end spanner or better yet a flare nut spanner, as my bunnings cheapo spanner combined with my unwillingness to ask a mate for real tools rounded the nut completely.
the jimny bits lines were long enough to not even go taught in the front when jacking the front up the fifth time to put the steering column back in.

if spacing the steering column adding spacers before jacking the body might save rejacking over and over to get it right.
i put the jimnybits steering spacer in, but found for the 2" lift it was 9mm too long afterwards. the spacer is designed for a 3"lift and is 39mm long not including the stubs that fit inside the rubber of the steering column
its way easier to put the steering back together with the body jacked too, as with the spacer it was a tad too long, but the bolts lined up just nicely in the same spot as standard

i have bullbar but there's 2 bolts in the bottom of the rear bumper that need to be undone

coming down from the brake master cylinder are 2 brake lines that go into a metal block which is bolted to the chassis. i just unbolted it and it just moved where it wanted when jacking. (still need to make a new bracket to bolt it back up.

next i just bent the chassis mounted bracket that holds the vacume hub lines up a inch or so, checked it and it never went tight or close to popping something off..

loosened 3 right side, body bolts to within 3 turns of undone, and took the right headlight body bolt out.
removed entire left bolt set
jacked against left floor with big blocks of timber to distribute load, checking left front brake line tension
added lift blocks, lowered jack until thread was felt with internally threaded bolts, incrementally tightened bolts while lowering to try to keep the body inline then loosened the bolts back off once the jack was down

repeated for the right side but frequently checked tension on brake lines front and rear, fuel filler and breather tension, and front master cylinder and vac system lines.

while it may seam like a good idea to put the original rubber spacers below the new body blocks (they have a fitted section that goes into the chassis) i don't recommend trying it. i did, and its really difficult to get the internally threaded bolts with the lower rubber up through the extra rubber and then feel the thread of the captive bolt.

[Gwagensteve]

Jezza86 wrote:

while it may seam like a good idea to put the original rubber spacers below the new body blocks (they have a fitted section that goes into the chassis) i don't recommend trying it. i did, and its really difficult to get the internally threaded bolts with the lower rubber up through the extra rubber and then feel the thread of the captive bolt.

Sorry if this sounds agressive, but far from "a good idea" it sounds like you've installed your BL incorrectly.

So where have you put the rubber that normally sits on top of the chassis? Is the body block now sitting on the chassis? is the shaped rubber now up against the body? if so, what's happening to it? where does the conical section go?

I appreciate that getting everything to line up is difficult, but it's critical the rubber blocks sit each side of the chassis and allow the body to "float" a little, and distribute the load of the body on the chassis. If you have the steel block hard on the chassis you're now feeding the weight of the body onto the chassis in a way that wasn't intended, and the stud isn't being centred in the chassis hole. there's a real risk the body will misalign and/or you'll crack the chassis, wear the stud, or bend the studs.

Maybe post a photo of how it's installed now?

This isn't a jimny, but this is the way a lift installs:



The stock rubber bushes sit on the chassis, the block between rubbers and the body. Any other way is incorrect installation.

Steve.

[Fatzook]

X2.

Seems like the right way was to difficult, so you just winged it to save some work.

[joeblow]

Jezza86 wrote:

while it may seam like a good idea to put the original rubber spacers below the new body blocks (they have a fitted section that goes into the chassis) i don't recommend trying it. i did, and its really difficult to get the internally threaded bolts with the lower rubber up through the extra rubber and then feel the thread of the captive bolt.

That is shocking advice!

Mine fit. But then again I did take my time to do it correctly.

[jimny_timmy]

Jezza86 wrote:

Saturday morning i decided to put in a 2" body lift that's been siting around for awhile. mainly because i also have 6 30x9.5 km2's siting in the shed.
after reading here and a few other places on the net, and looking at the supplier site photos, i decided to give it a wack.
it could have ended better so here are my recommendations to anyone else 2" body lifting a jimny like my own (non-abs or power steer 2010)

Feel free to correct me.... But there is no such thing as a 2010 with no abs or power steering????

[Jezza86]

hmmn bugger, i did try to get the internally threaded bolt through both rubbers, but could only get 2 of the bolts to thread as the bolt diameter is much larger than the hole in the rubber between the chassis and the body.
the jimny rubbers arnt conical but do step down in diameter where they would normally sit on the chassis

this is how i put mine in however mine are the nylon spacers



mines just the jx, no power windows, power steering, centeral locking or alloys.
http://www.redbook.com.au/cars/research ... 8?R=561248

[Fatzook]

Did you think about drilling the holes in the rubber mounts to match the new bolts?

What kind of instructions came with the kit? I fail to see how any proper kit would come with vague enough instructions to allow you to think this was the best way to install the kit....

[atari4x4]

my old boy always said use a bit of lube if the hole is light.

[Jezza86]

didnt come with instructions, so i just trused what i saw on the site,

[Skippy]

jimny_timmy wrote:

Jezza86 wrote:

Saturday morning i decided to put in a 2" body lift that's been siting around for awhile. mainly because i also have 6 30x9.5 km2's siting in the shed.
after reading here and a few other places on the net, and looking at the supplier site photos, i decided to give it a wack.
it could have ended better so here are my recommendations to anyone else 2" body lifting a jimny like my own (non-abs or power steer 2010)

Feel free to correct me.... But there is no such thing as a 2010 with no abs or power steering????

Mine is a 2011 and doesn't have power steering... wish it did. don't think it has abs either. how can you tell if it has ABS?

[jimny_timmy]

It'll have a pump and a whole heap of pipes coming out of it at the back of the engine bay on the passenger side. I thought abs was an ADR must have?

[Jezza86]

the abs controller takes up the space on the left hand side of the engine bay whene i have my second battery.
between the winscreen washer bottle and the winscreen wiper motor.

[just_cruizin]

Body block should also be sized to match the rubber.