[ozhummer]

I'm sure many of you would have put the larger 4door Vitara brakes onto the SWB.. I'm looking at doing this and just want dome info - Do the Calipers just bolt straight up.. Can I leave the Dust plate ? .. I'm going to leave the master cyl asis as it is new, I'll just get new disks and pads ...

Thanks

[DarkHorse]

From memory it's a straight swap, but never having done a SWB I'm not 100%.

[tanshi]

there are 2 different LWB brakes which one are you talking about?

[jono165]

The process should be the same for a vitara. http://auszookers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=21172

[DarkHorse]

tanshi wrote:

there are 2 different LWB brakes which one are you talking about?

You just mean SE (1.6L) and SV (2.0L)? This is true...

[tanshi]

yep exactly

[alexvitara]

1.6 brakes are interchangeable but there's 2 different axle/drum setups. Not sure about 2L.

[DarkHorse]

2L caliper mounting offset is different so the rotor doesn't sit centred between the pads. You have to swap the whole knuckle/hub/spindle assembly as well.

[shandy92]

Hey mate,

I have done this to my swb 95 vit (se) it is a straight swap. I cant remember which plates i used but i think they are the same. Put a rebuild kit though the calipers if u can, i made the error of using machined rotors not new...had to do the same job months later.

I never noticed a big difference in performance, only that the pedal was a touch softer.
Still worth it tho.

Mitch

[ozhummer]

My problem is that my pedal is quite soft now - I have a new master cyl, disks and pads - I have also bleed the whole system through - a lot! .. Still I have a lot of pedal movement, maybe it's the proportioning valve ? - Has anyone got experience setting this up. I removed all the brakes as part of my restore.

Interesting that you didn't notice any difference - I gues they would suffer less fade given they are ventilated.

[shandy92]

ozhummer wrote:

My problem is that my pedal is quite soft now - I have a new master cyl, disks and pads - I have also bleed the whole system through - a lot! .. Still I have a lot of pedal movement, maybe it's the proportioning valve ? - Has anyone got experience setting this up. I removed all the brakes as part of my restore.

Interesting that you didn't notice any difference - I guess they would suffer less fade given they are ventilated.

not really sure whats causing the soft pedal but i doubt it would be the proportioning valve, and yeah the main advantage was less brake fade as you said......i never tested the stopping efficiency tho. With the bigger rubber i need the extra brakes tho.

[ozhummer]

I have a feeling that as I have put the G16B into the SWB, I need the 4door brakes for compliance .. And as I will be putting larger wheels on too.. I just don't know why the pedal has so much movement. The brakes dont feel at all spongy once they start to work, buts it's not a nice feeling!

[jono165]

If you put on bigger brakes the pedal/plunger in the master cylinder has to move further to displace enough fluid to actuate the brakes. so you will have more pedal travel than factory so it might feel a bit funny. I wouldn't think you would need to upgrade the brakes for compliances as a G16b was also available in the SWB in subsequent years.

It is possible to upgrade the master cylinder to one that has a larger bore such as one out of a forester which is commonly used for 4 wheel discs, or i believe someone on here used a disc/drum master cylinder form a GQ patrol which fitted up well also.

Edit: it might also be that the master cylinder in the lwb vitara is biased/bigger to compensate for the larger caliper.

[ozhummer]

The SWB and LWB have the same (or pretty similar) volumetric capacity with regards to piston capacity so there would be zero effect. In fact the booster size generally only needs to be increased if the calliper capacity increases to a really high level. I recently completed a full restoration of a supercharged Toyota mr2 (see Dec 2012 Fast Fours& Rotaries), for this I replaced the standard front brakes for huge Wilwood 4 piston units and 300mm disks, There was no requirement to change the booster and the brake pedal is as hard as rock (race car like) with very little free play. It also has braided lines and I'm wondering if I need to put braided lines on my Vit.. I think there must be something fundamentally wrong somewhere in the system ... and for some reason I keep thinking the rear brakes may be the cause ... Any ideas/suggestions would be appreciated

[dono1]

Clamp the rear brake lines and see if the pedal feel gets bette, then you can start to track down he problem/ rule out rear brakes.