[tom240]

hey guys, new to suzuki's and 4wding so tell me if a say anything stupid

was under my car today, changing drivers side cv and noticed the diff breather seemed a bit odd... its a bit of tube that went up no higher than the diff and the end was capped, is this how it comes from factory or something or what?
i looked at the rear and someone has ran a breather up into the boot, just haven't done the front properly it seems





Also, the other day i was hearing a strange rattling noise and tracked it down to be a piece of angle iron welded to the catalytic converter and bolted into the manual transmission (the bolts had come loose and one had fallen out) this seemed really strange, is that where the factory exhaust mount goes?

[atari4x4]

that breather is ment to feed up into the engine bay, there is a clip that usually holds it on the RHS between the radiator & strut tower, the rear leads up into the area behind the LH tail light.

i'd be draining the front diff & either cleaning the hose or replacing it & cable tie it to something.

pretty sure there is a factory mount from the cat to the gearbox on the 1.6's, been ages since i've been under one though.

[atari4x4]

see the white cap in the bottom RH corner of this pic, that is where it's ment to sit.


please excuse the i was pointing out something else for another member.


EDIT: you're also missing a bolt on the RHS front diff drop bracket.

[tom240]

hahaha thanks for warm (rude) welcome

and thanks for showing me where it goes, will get onto that

[tom240]

about the diff bracket... fucked the diff casing and CV while out 4wding (made it quite hard to get out) i'm hoping 2 bolts out of 3 will be enough until i can get a steel one from GV

[atari4x4]

first one is free of charge

if you got easy on it, it might last but i'd try & get the 3rd one in there. as you found out they alloy diffs are weak as piss... loosen off the other bolts on both sides & with a bit of jigger-pokey you should be able to get the last one in pretty easy.

[tom240]

the third bolt hole actually snapped off leaving me with this little bit haha

[atari4x4]

yeah scrap that idea then.

you're lucky that you only lost that little bit & didn't damage the crown wheel & pinion.

[tom240]

yeah i thought the whole side had broken off but it turned out the other 2 bolts had come loose and got chewed up so i got some new high tensile ones. how would the crown wheel and pinion get damaged? (hoping mine isn't because it was hanging kind of loose)

[atari4x4]

the whole alloy diff can catastrophically fail when shock loaded doing something like this:

[christover1]

EDIT like that ^^

The whole pinion carrier can snap, its a sad thing.
That usually takes out all the mechanicals with it.

[tom240]

oh wow, not pretty.

was toying with the idea of welding the front diff, yay or nay? (poor engineering student without enough money for arb airlocker or similar) i was thinking this would create more load on parts like cvs and casings but i read that you are actually less likely to blow these components if the diff is locked. with an open diff when one wheel lifts off and starts spinning fast and then comes back down again and gets traction it creates shock loading. this true? im guessing it would make turning a bit difficult but if its on the front could just disengage the hubs and away you go..

[atari4x4]

all of the above, you pretty much answered your own question.

EDIT: i'd leave it open, chase up another housing & keep saving.

i think i still have a good alloy housing kicking around my garage... it can be yours for $29.99 + postage if your keen.

[christover1]

I run my Vit on a disability pension, so I understand poor.

I agree, spining wheels landing causes most breakage.

Auto lockers are cheaper than air lockers, spools are better than welding.

Get the best you can, and enjoy it.

Steel diff, though dear, will save you money in the long run.

[tom240]

yeah if i was to weld it up i would be doing it when i put the steel housing in because the centre would be out anyway. thanks for the offer on the housing, were abouts are you located? "east radelayed" didn't come up on google maps east adelaide?

[atari4x4]

yeah Adelaide

[tom240]

thanks chris, i was thinking about a spool, do you know any decent/ cheap ones? welding will be essentially free if my supercheap special 210 arc welder is up to the challenge . but if i have to pay someone to weld it up i will most likely go for a spool

[tom240]

atari4x4 wrote:

yeah Adelaide

hmm, how much do you think postage to terrigal, 2260 would be? how much do they weigh, any idea? thanks

[christover1]

OOPs there is only spools for 26 splines.
Your fronts be 22.
Only Your rear be 26.
Auto lockers come in 22 and 26.
Or some people put 26 spline front bits into their steel diffs.

[tom240]

christover1 wrote:

OOPs there is only spools for 26 splines.
Your fronts be 22.
Only Your rear be 26.
Auto lockers come in 22 and 26.
Or some people put 26 spline front bits into their steel diffs.

damn.

sorry to be a noob, could you explain the spline thing to me, which part is 22 or 26 spline? ive seen people talking about 22 and 26 spline, is it different from auto to manual or does it change at a certain year or something? reason why i ask is i was going to use a cv from a wrecked swb AUTO vitara and just got worried about it not fitting, thanks

[atari4x4]

tom240 wrote:

atari4x4 wrote:

yeah Adelaide

hmm, how much do you think postage to terrigal, 2260 would be? how much do they weigh, any idea? thanks

Will have to weight & measure it, but it's pretty light. I can book it via e-go & drop it at their depot to save a few $$ and have it delivered to your door. Going buy other junk I've sent I'm guessing $15-20.

[christover1]

Not sure what year it changed.
Inner spline on axle, the bit that slips into the diff.
On later models its beefier and 26 splines.
So the side gears of diff have to match the axle, but all bits still fit inside same housing.

[Chop]

I think it has an oil leak

[tom240]

Chop wrote:

I think it has an oil leak

sump is pissing

head gasket is gone too, making up some home brew mayonaise under my oil-cap

EDIT: had another look, could be transmission fluid leaking aswell, looks kinda like its coming out of the drain plug. power steering is leaking too,

[atari4x4]

christover1 wrote:

Not sure what year it changed.
Inner spline on axle, the bit that slips into the diff.
On later models its beefier and 26 splines.
So the side gears of diff have to match the axle, but all bits still fit inside same housing.

was late 95 early 96, from memory... the late model dash are the only ones with the 26 spline front. being an 88 i'd guarantee it being 22 spline

that's not an oil leak, it's an anti corrosive coating thank you very much.

[tom240]

atari4x4 wrote:

that's not an oil leak, it's an anti corrosive coating thank you very much.

i agree!

[shakes]

christover1 wrote:

Get the best you can, and enjoy it.

best bit of advice on this forum in a long time.