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Post Posted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 7:00 pm 
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Im running 235/75 r15 Maxxis bighorns on my 2008 Jimny and I notice that to keep it going at 100kms on a road with a slight incline or even on flat ground I have to force i a bit. Ive been looking at the reduction gears for a while but after reading through the different post on this forum I have come to the conclusion that even with the smallest 20% reduction, my engine revs will be around the 4k mark while going 100km/h. Is this true or not really? Also are their any other options available to gain more power besides the t/case swap, reduction gears or an engine swap?

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 7:03 pm 
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if it does work out to 4k it will be in the motors sweet spot:

M13a = 62.5 kW (83.8 hp) @6,000 rpm & 110 N·m (81 lb·ft) @4,100 rpm

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 7:16 pm 
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haha yeah, but I like my engine running at 3k at 100

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 7:18 pm 
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That's quite a bit lower than suzuki think is ideal though. There's stuff all torque or power down there, so you'll have to downshift at a sniff of a hill.

In fact, don't G13BB engined Jimny's spin near 4K standard?

Steve.

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 7:24 pm 
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yeah i have a freind who has a 2000 model jimny that sits around the 4k mark at 100. I just dont like the idea of 4k revs while doing 100 on a long trip. Idk, i feel like its pushing it a bit hard. I htink at 100kms it sits around 3200, im not to sure.

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 7:29 pm 
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privatepablo wrote:
yeah i have a freind who has a 2000 model jimny that sits around the 4k mark at 100. I just dont like the idea of 4k revs while doing 100 on a long trip. Idk, i feel like its pushing it a bit hard. I htink at 100kms it sits around 3200, im not to sure.



What you think is irrelivant. Suzuki employs highly experienced automotive engineers, and they set it up to run where a balance of reliability, efficiency, and longevity is achieved. So if you don't like it revving at 4K, sell it and buy a turbo diesel something.

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Last edited by Fatzook on Thu Jul 04, 2013 7:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 7:29 pm 
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^^^ what he said x 11ty billion

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 7:34 pm 
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My G13BA is best in the 3500-4200rpm mark.

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 7:38 pm 
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yeah i know that, But standard it runs in 5th gear at 100 on around 3.2k revs. Now if i get those 20% reduction gears it will pull it up to 4k in 5th and doing 100. So what im trying to see is if there's any other way to get a bit more pull out of it without resorting to a reduction gear or t/case swap.

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 7:42 pm 
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put factory sized tyres on, power isn't a substitute for gearing.

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 7:43 pm 
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Buy a Vitara :lol:

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 7:48 pm 
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lol yeah a vitara, yeah i guess stock tyre size would help. But isn't the whole point of reduction gears to move the bigger tyres in the first place? Im just asking because I dont have that much of an idea as to what the best option if atm
Cheers :)

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 7:51 pm 
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The reduction gears are there to reduce you gearing for more controlled offroad driving. But, in addition help to correct tyre size affected gearing.

Which would bring the affected 100km/h revs back closer to stock and in the engineered ideal rev range :)

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 7:52 pm 
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as said, transfer gears will return the gearing back to stock with larger tyres & 4000rpm is a happy place for a suzuki engine.

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 8:01 pm 
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I see, so my best option to get my revs back to stock while running 235s will be to do the Sierra t/case swap. As Ive been reading on other post here, 235/75 r15 are 11% more, so even if i did get the 20% reduction I would still have an inaccurate speedo reading by 9% roughly. :(

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 8:16 pm 
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privatepablo wrote:
I see, so .....I would still have an inaccurate speedo reading(

No matter what transfer case or replacement gears you fit, your speedo will still read exactly the same as it does now with the 235's because the speedo reading is taken from the transfer output shaft.

In ex-factory form, the speedo will read about 6-8% HIGH. Fitting the 235'swould have raised the speed by about 11%, but your speedo will be reading lower than your actual speed by about 4%. Have you cross-checked it with a GPS? You can correct the speedo reading by electronic trickery, which is a good idea, as a speedo that reads LOW is an ADR fail as well as a fast track to Mr Plod busting you

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 8:31 pm 
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fair enough, ill have a bit more of a look before i decide to do anything. Thanks for the help anyway, and Ill make sure to check my speed with a gps to make sure im on the safe side :)

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