[Critical Energy]

Hi all,

Putting my WT diffs in today, all going well except the ball joint that attaches to the steering little arm thingy.
Bashed the shit out of it with a ball joint splitter, soaked in WD40, bashed repeatedly and hasn't moved one bit.

Any tips?

Rich

[31zook]

I use a tuning fork looking thing, just put it in there and hammer away.

Lik dis

[atari4x4]

load it up with the ball joint splitter on it & give the pitman arm bit of a kiss with the hammer... the load from the splitter will help to get it to pop. FYI kiss = smack the shit out of it.

if you can get a 2nd hammer to the arm it will assist with the shock loading, hold one hammer on the arm & belt the shit out of the other side with the other hammer, what you are doing is distorting the hole enough with the shock loading for it to release it's grip on the taper, belting the joint/threaded section doesn't usually help much.


viewtopic.php?f=5&t=41582&hilit=ball+joint

[Critical Energy]

Yeah that's what I've been using, I assume the joints been there doing it's thing as long as I've been alive, might leave it over night with the WD40.

Attachment:

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1374299394.705286.jpg

Oh, forgot the pic before

[Critical Energy]

Cool, I'll go try that.

Swearing at it didn't work

[want33s]

WD40 overnight won't make any difference.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LDsci-izhhc

[31zook]

If your using a fork and its not working, it's not the fork

Try jacking up the axles so the draglink is horizontal

[Critical Energy]

Funny, left it for a couple hrs with WD40 on, tried again and it popped right off.

Happy days

[atari4x4]

did you use a different swear word compared to previous attempts?

[ZUK12A]

I had to use a joint seperator on mine. (The type you screw open with a wrench) supercheap auto, it didn't last long but did the sierra.

[Critical Energy]

Nah, felt all guilty, tried a bit of love.

Front diff in, wheels look tiny on the WT diff, funny that