[Zook2510]

Hi all,

Still trying to work out what suspension set-up to go with on our Jimny Our main aim is to fit our existing 30" muddies and still leave room for some good flex. We are happy to do a bit (or a lot) of guard chopping etc but we're a bit stuck on what suspension lift to go with.

So far we've been thinking of TD 60 or 80mm lifts (what are people's thoughts on these??) or a JimnyBits Procomp 75mm lift.

[Jezza86]

are you trying to keep the car registered?
if yes, i wouldn't recommend lifting over 2 inches or you'll be looking at panhards, castor corrected arms (because the bushes limit flex which sounds like its unacceptable for you).
2" is just springs and shocks and will save you 5-900 bucks not including shipping, and engineering/ modplates if you need them.
lift also helps the car flop on its side and feel more unstable.

the td springs are extremely hard. the jb ones are great for what i do, which is a bit of everyhting minus propper rock crawling.
procomp shocks (es1000) are what im looking at replacing my es3000's with as the 3000's are way too hard in the rear end with no weight on it.

[Jezza86]

^ and the bigjimny guard chop

[Gwagensteve]

You do realise suspension lift doesn't fit tyres, yes? You'll require trimming, bumpstop spacing or body lift to clear tyres. Where the suspension sits at rest has nothing to do with clearing try's during articulation.

Steve

[zukenutter]

Everybody who runs JB kits seems happy with them. If you're happy to go crazy on the guard chop 60mm may be all you need, if not you could always add coil spacers later

[zukenutter]

Jimny scrubbage is as much or more on big even hits than during articulation. New 30s will hit even with 4" lift. Neg offset the rims and they'll scrub a whole lot more.

[Zook2510]

Gwagensteve wrote:

You do realise suspension lift doesn't fit tyres, yes? You'll require trimming, bumpstop spacing or body lift to clear tyres. Where the suspension sits at rest has nothing to do with clearing try's during articulation.

Steve

Thanks, it's that we don't want to 'just' scrape the tyres in and have no room left for travel! We were originally going to go with a 50mm body lift then realised we can't with a car with airbags

Jezza86 wrote:

^ and the bigjimny guard chop

^ Will be doing this

Jezza86 wrote:

are you trying to keep the car registered?
if yes, i wouldn't recommend lifting over 2 inches or you'll be looking at panhards, castor corrected arms (because the bushes limit flex which sounds like its unacceptable for you).
2" is just springs and shocks and will save you 5-900 bucks not including shipping, and engineering/ modplates if you need them.
lift also helps the car flop on its side and feel more unstable.

the td springs are extremely hard. the jb ones are great for what i do, which is a bit of everyhting minus propper rock crawling.
procomp shocks (es1000) are what im looking at replacing my es3000's with as the 3000's are way too hard in the rear end with no weight on it.

Yes, we'll be keeping it registered...a 2" lift would definitely be cheaper and easier but just not sure if it would be ok with 30s. Are you on the 50mm ProComp setup? What tyres do you run?

[Jezza86]

The more i drive with 3" of lift and 2"of BL on 30's the more i wish i had no BL, no lift, and next to no guards. it handles like a boat on and off road, and mates can go places i cant because its too tall.
i have never had the JB springs coil bind and i have had some BIG moments hitting washouts doing 80 down the centeral arnhem highway. good shocks and the JB spring rate work quite well which is why id suggest the 2" lift as a maximum.

[Zook2510]

zukenutter wrote:

Jimny scrubbage is as much or more on big even hits than during articulation. New 30s will hit even with 4" lift. Neg offset the rims and they'll scrub a whole lot more.

Hmm ok, what sort of lift and tyres are you running zukenutter?

[Jezza86]

Before ZN says it, gearing. you will not want to spend 900 bucks on gearing, but once you get gearing, you will realise how much you needed it the day before you bolted a set of 30's on

[Zook2510]

Jezza86 wrote:

Before ZN says it, gearing. you will not want to spend 900 bucks on gearing, but once you get gearing, you will realise how much you needed it the day before you bolted a set of 30's on

Cheers already have a 1L Sierra t-case, we ran it on our coily with the 30s and were happy with the result (but can drop new gears in it down the track if needed). Research suggests it should give us overall gearing on the Jim roughly the same as it was on the coily.

[Jezza86]

yeh i have a high/low 32% reduction. goes awesome on 30s
also, if you have a load proportion sensing valve, make or buy a bracket for it to keep the stock bias on the rear wheels. even 2" of lift screws with it badly.

[zukenutter]

Lol I wasn't even thinking of mentioning gearing.

I'm running 80mm TD coils, 15mm spacers, Rancho shocks and ORA control arms. My 30s are half worn and don't really scrub on my virtually intact flares but my next tyres will be 235/75R15 and I'll drop to 80mm total lift. My 7" rims are only -5mm offset so they tuck well into the guards.

[zukenutter]

When my 30s were new they scrubbed quite a bit but a BigJimny guard chop will sort that.

[Zook2510]

Jezza86 wrote:

yeh i have a high/low 32% reduction. goes awesome on 30s
also, if you have a load proportion sensing valve, make or buy a bracket for it to keep the stock bias on the rear wheels. even 2" of lift screws with it badly.

Ok thanks I will look into this ^

zukenutter wrote:

When my 30s were new they scrubbed quite a bit but a BigJimny guard chop will sort that.

Righto ours are pretty much brand new, thinking we might do the guard chop first, see how they fit, then decide on a lift from there.
Do you find your setup fairly stable? Pretty impressive lift you are running

[zukenutter]

On road
You need to drive it accordingly, a lifted vehicle will of course handle very differently. In cornering the front outside corner of the car tends to dive in if you brake during cornering but so does a stocker. any pro driver will tell you that braking should be done before the corner anyway so driving technique can mean some people have issues and others don't. The one thing that can't be avoided is lean but I've got to corner pretty hard to lift a wheel or loose traction.

Off road
Personally I don't like to limit up travel because off road it would make it teeter a lot sooner and of course limit the total travel you can achieve. Plenty of people will probable disagree with this but it's what I find works best.

[cal213]

Ive got 30s, 2" avo lift and jb 3" arms, toughdog panhards and swapped my set of 31s to 30s due to the amount of chop needed

[Zook2510]

Thanks for the pic Cal213 it looks like good clearance over 30s plus no BigJimny chop...how do you go with scrubbing and articulation etc?

Also a general question, we are thinking about getting rear shock relocators but I've read that they increase rear lift by 1-1.5", is this true and are they really necessary, particularly if we do end up going for a more stable 50mm lift than 75-80mm??

And thanks everyone for your responses it is a big help!

[zukenutter]

Cal213 should share a pic to show how close his tyre is to the bottom corner of the flare. He would definitely have scrubbage.

Shock relocators will not affect height unless you're running some sort of gas charged shock and even then it would be virtually nothing. If you plan on off roading the relocators will save your shocks.

[cal213]

Haha, busted. I havent yet driven with the 30s but i can tell front bumper chop is a definate, as for guards, im yet to recieve my tie rod ends so i can get this back on the road. But just sitting there, going from full lock to full lock nothing rubs. Will be a different story offroad

[cal213]

Ill see about getting a few more shots. I also have 40mm extended bump stops in the front.

[Jezza86]

you will chew this spot

[Jezza86]

you can see the spot where the plastic has been cleaned by the wheel.there is 5 incles over stock here, and 2 of it doesnot compress because its bodylift. this is the front left

[Zook2510]

Jezza86 wrote:

you can see the spot where the plastic has been cleaned by the wheel.there is 5 incles over stock here, and 2 of it doesnot compress because its bodylift. this is the front left

Ok and thanks for the pic. You haven't done any/much guard chopping?

[Jezza86]

nup, but i wish i had. its going to be a pain in the ass trying to get this car back to roadworthy when i take it back to Queensland.

[honour]

I am currently in the same boat - put 235 75s on yesterday, and they are hitting really quite hard on the cabin side bottom corner of the front wheel arches (2" OME suspension lift).
So I just cut the corner off the bottom, and wedged it back into itself, single rivet to hold it in place, then silicone it all up. Dodgy as.

The corner cut -


Siliconed up -


It still had big hitting problems whenever I go over potholes etc, let alone taking it offroad.

So I am considering doing a BigJimny chop today, but I have no idea about what to do for splashguards (Simply not having them isn't really an option for me).

[Zook2510]

honour wrote:

So I am considering doing a BigJimny chop today, but I have no idea about what to do for splashguards (Simply not having them isn't really an option for me).

Thanks for the feedback and let us know how it goes ^

cal213 wrote:

Ill see about getting a few more shots. I also have 40mm extended bump stops in the front.

Do the extended bump stops create more clearance, didn't think they would so just checking...

[zukenutter]

cal213 wrote:

Ill see about getting a few more shots. I also have 40mm extended bump stops in the front.

Do the extended bump stops create more clearance, didn't think they would so just checking...[/quote]

They'll just limit the up travel of your suspension so the wheel won't make contact with the body.

[Jezza86]

^i havent extended mine, and have never had this happen. i also run -15mm offset 15X7's

[Zook2510]

Righto, cheers.

So at this stage we are going to do the BigJimny guard chop and most likely a JimnyBits ProComp lift (have had quite a few reports of TD being really stiff, so have rethought that one). Now just to decide 2" or 3"