[magnat]

OK apart from 2inches of Lift, Bash plates and a snorkel...
(and no suggestions of getting a better 4x4)

What tyres can I legally fit to make it just that little bit better off road...
I had fun on the weekend but I just need that little bit more of an edge when in mud.

So if you can suggest an inexpensive tyre that will give me a tad more height and grip then the 215/70/R16 Falken Wild Peaks I have now I would be greatful.

Plus any other advice that will make the XL-7 just that tad more confident offroad.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VeFlyNF-QL0

[klutched]

225/75r16 in a muddy?

lol is that your exhaust hanging down in the vid?

[GeckoXL7]

I just got 235 70 R16 General Tire Grabber AT2, so far a very good tire, paid around 220 each. Every tire i had apart from the pirelli scorpion atr wore unevenly even when i was very strick on wheel alignments. The AT2 says it shouldnt have that issue they also have a good millage warranty.

The other size i would recomend and has alot of choices is 225 75 R16.

Other than that if want larger there is Dobinson Castor correction bushes that will push the wheel out slightly for clearance and you will need wider offset rims which the only ones i can find that will fit are Dick Cepek and another usa brand but there quite expensive.

I would sugest secureing the exhaust mounts by wrapping some wire around where it hangs, as they tend to pop of when in mud, The muffler is pretty heavey and the length of the exhaust makes it swing and jump around alot.
The trans and transfer breather hose sits on the bell housing i would extend that up to behind the ABS control unit, and make sure the front diff breather is secure to the airbox lid.

The best thing i did was the rear heavey duty trailing arms just made it feel more solid off road. Also have a adjustable pan rod which helps with alignment but had a habit of comming lose so lock tighted it. Sway bar drop brackets stoped the sway bar links from braking and gave some more travel up front. and front diff drop brakets alowed more movement in the CV shafts. All available from GIZ 4x4.

I have also lowered the center bearing as i had it click with the two in lift, outdoor auto sells the bracket for around 135 from memory its from FTS 4x4 whom will not deal direct but you can go to there site to have a look what it is.

I am looking at ways of improving front brakes as mud and sand can get stuck in the ABS sensor rings, and looking at how i can protect the alternator as its the number one thing to cause issues in mud or water so looking at if can build a splash guard for it.
Brown davis do a full protection kit from front to transfer and i think tank, for the v6, i called them to see if it can be adapted but waiting to hear back as dont know if its for the new or old v6 models, the mounting points look quite simalar execpt rear cross member where the XL-7 is solid for the center bearing while a GV is a tube. I have the suzisport which needs to be replaced as it got damaged hitting a rock burried in sand, aloy underneath just doesnt seem to hold up, ive seen a full kit for the XL-7 but only 3mm alloy and more expensive than the brown davis, would not handle anything if hit, the suzi sport plate at least was 6mm decently strong and a crap load cheaper.

[Marko_SJ]

Mud tire two inchs taller than standard is legal AFAIK.

If you arent worried about going bigger, fit as large as possible and bump stop space as necessary.

Hopefully you have an auto that will slip enough to cater for the larger tire size. If not, you are now looking at reduction gears.

I dunno if they make them for your car.

[GeckoXL7]

Reduction gears are defently not needed in a XL-7 the diff ratios and low range is good enough to support a larger tire esp the power and torque, I have noticed no difference at all running a 2" larger tire and the Speedo is only 4km/h out. A XL-7 in Low range at 3000rpm does around 6km/h in first with a 235 70 R16, its hard to say as the speedo needle bearly moves.

The general grabber is as agresive AT tire you can get i would say its inbetween a Mud and AT and just within the legal limits of 46mm larger than stock.

[Marko_SJ]

GeckoXL7 wrote:

Reduction gears are defently not needed in a XL-7 the diff ratios and low range is good enough to support a larger tire esp the power and torque, I have noticed no difference at all running a 2" larger tire and the Speedo is only 4km/h out. A XL-7 in Low range at 3000rpm does around 6km/h in first with a 235 70 R16, its hard to say as the speedo needle bearly moves.

The general grabber is as agresive AT tire you can get i would say its inbetween a Mud and AT and just within the legal limits of 46mm larger than stock.

What I was saying, is that if he were to go larger than 2 inches taller than stock; reduction gears might possibly come into play.

Personally I drove around with 30s on standard gears for one month and thought it was fine. And then I got gears and it blew me away. Having said that I'd like to know diff ratio, tranfer ratio and gearbox ratios before I judge.

The reason I say this is its not just if the engine can pull it, its about precise control....

If you drive offroad regularly, I wouldnt buy less than a super aggressive mud terrain. Anything else you pay similar money for something thats less effective.

[bangn]

can you get a mechanical locker for one of these? Tyres, locker and springs would be enough to take it through a lot of terrain. Thing that holds a lot of people back regardless of lift is as soon as one rear wheel becomes air born and theres not much traction in the front you don't move anywhere.

[got_bar_work]

If u have the old front diff yes u can dont know on the new style
Rear no but ask joeblow if he is going to make one to fit

[GeckoXL7]

I had 235 75 R16s Pirellis on it for 90,000ks went up steep rocky hills, sand dunes, Climbed muddy hills without fishtailing around, it had great control, I chose the GT's being a daily but still being aggressive if want to play in mud. and the thing that convinced me is watching a jimny get up a steep muddy hill with them on.

Low range is 1.82

Automatic is 5.125
Manual is 4.3

You can get a auto Locker for front, air locker you need a VIT housing from what ive been told. I have been up some pretty steep rocky paths and up mudy hills and never needed it, it always went straight without sliding around. Always thought about it but just havent had the need, usually if a wheel is in the air the ABS will pulse that wheel so the other wheel still on the ground will turn enough to keep moving, thats my experiance anyways. There is a fair bit more electronics to help in a XL which can be handy in someways but a pain in others eg when the ABS rings get clogged. Ive been in sand dunes and almost made it when the wheels filled up with sand, ABS went stupid and came to a quick halt.

[GeckoXL7]

You can get 4.25:1 Low range gears for the XL-7 for $749

[klutched]

GeckoXL7 wrote:

You can get 4.25:1 Low range gears for the XL-7 for $749

From where? I bet you can't

[GeckoXL7]

Trail Tough i think from Low range, just have to modify the transfer case a little grinding or something, I read a while ago it was done.

There is two Transmision types in the manual type one and type two, the actual transfer case are almost identical, the one i just received of a 03 series two looks simalar but may be differnt enough not to support the gears? the Series one had a extension between the transmision and transfer while the series two the transfer bolted directly to the transmision. My 03 faceliift transfer case looks slightly different than the Type 2 2002 model Transfer case i received before. I wouldnt of thought suzuki would use two differnt transmisions on a XL-7 but after looking at them i found out they did, confused both me and the Suzuki Wreckers.

[klutched]

No they are Vitara gears and suit 2L GV's as well. Won't fit an XL7, what you have to look at is the internal diameter of the transfer case input shaft. If yours measures at 24mm it will fit. I doubt it will, should measure at 26mm. I have a set here that will fit your XL7 Had to be resplined to fit the larger xl7 gearbox output shaft.

[GeckoXL7]

Ok Cool. well i have the transmision still off the car, and the second transfer case ill do some measurements later.

Its usually the russians that do it, XL-7's over there are crazily modified. eg 4 " lift with body lift on top of that running 33's or larger makes me envious we cant do anything like that here

[klutched]

You should buy them, will make your rig heaps better offroad $700

[GeckoXL7]

Lol you said that when first joined a few years ago

[magnat]

I have the 5mm steel bash plates for the front Diff, Fuel tank and transfer.. it has made a HUGE difference in not getting hung up as easy as before.
Yes I bashed the exhaust off the 2 rear hangers... 2 mins back up and moving again..

I really am after something Under $180 a corner as I don't have that much spare cash..

An aggressive All-terrain would do fine, but it needs to have side biters for when I fall into ruts and need to get back out..

[murcod]

GeckoXL7 wrote:

Always thought about it but just havent had the need, usually if a wheel is in the air the ABS will pulse that wheel so the other wheel still on the ground will turn enough to keep moving, thats my experiance anyways.

So you're saying your ABS functions as traction control (ie. works when the brakes aren't on?)

[atari4x4]

^^^^

[GeckoXL7]

I wouldn't say it has traction control as I know it doesn't but I had videos where in mud wheels have been pulsing also when in the air.

When climbing a sand dune that had really soft sand the abs light flickered just before it stalled

Second time I went up I recorded it on the sdt. When a wheel was a different speed eg lost traction the sdt beeped, and the and actuator was activated .

I haven't looked to much into it as yet, but I know when sand gets in the and sensor ring it don't like it. I thought of having a switch to disable it.

It has abs and ebc thought there pretty much the same thing.

[JrZook]

The "pulsing" in the air would be due the snatch and backlash in the drivetrain when it becomes unloaded. ABS light with most likely flicker when the engine is about to stall anyway as it would probably be registering a stall condition due to low RPM and be on to test the ABS MIL as you would get with the ignition on. Sand/mud/pedestrians etc shouldn't affect the ABS system as the sensors are variable reluctance magnetic type.

[magnat]

ABS and EBD are not substitutes for traction control... EBD has a proportion valve to stop the brakes prematurely locking up on the rear (Which the proportion valve needs adjusting if you have lifted your vehicle)

I have heard that applying the brakes can temporarily transfer the power from the wheel spinning to the wheel with more traction but its a tricky thing to pull off in a manual..

Anyway back on track.. So going a size larger on the tyres going to give it a bit more clearance or just help with traction ?
'

[GeckoXL7]

Going 235 70 r16 will give you roughly 23mm more height increase. Good for rear diff. Sway bar and lots under front of car.

Usually the rear diff hits rocks, but going that tad bit larger does make a good difference.

Then you have more option
Best options for a 235 are Pirelli atr, falken wild peak at. General grabber at2 or at cheapper less aggressive but ment to be good, and Bridgestone desert dueler at the Pirelli would be best value for Moby and can get for around 180 each.

Look at international tire traider.


There is one other option 225 75 Kumo km2 but told to avoid at moment. And there are grisly grips from e-tires that are pretty good and full mud

[magnat]

I have the Wild peaks now and they are useless in mud.. they have no lateral grip at all.

[atari4x4]

why people still bother with all terrain's has me beat... there is nothing "all terrain" about an all terrain apart from being average at all things & good at nothing.

don't waste your money unless it's a real aggressive AT.

[ZookFan]

atari4x4 wrote:

why people still bother with all terrain's has me beat... there is nothing "all terrain" about an all terrain apart from being average at all things & good at nothing.

don't waste your money unless it's a real aggressive AT.

I fully agree!

[Marko_SJ]

atari4x4 wrote:

why people still bother with all terrain's has me beat... there is nothing "all terrain" about an all terrain apart from being average at all things & good at nothing.

don't waste your money unless it's a real aggressive AT.

Fully agreed. Costs roughly the same, works ten times better on ALL surfaces if ya buy a good one.

They all last for ages on zooks anyway.

[GeckoXL7]

cool, i looked at them going to a 235 70 R16 i think they become a LT tire looked ok but went for the GT AT2. The AT is under 200 didnt look aggressive but they say its meant to be good in mud.

If just want a good tire for MUD with side biters that is also cheap, not much better than a Pinnacle grizzly grip. 159 per tire plus delivery, there 10ply, quite on the road, and people who had them highly rate them even over Coopers and Mickys they previously had, mainly only got them as on a budjet. They dont have a big name but supposedly made my same factory that make Maxxis Tires.

I think the Kumos where around 198, There are also Maxxis buckshots etc that are under 200.

The Grizzlys.
http://etyrestore.com.au/new_store_list ... yre_id=584



My Tire



The Kumo Kl71


Maxis buckshot

[atari4x4]

Marko_SJ wrote:

atari4x4 wrote:

why people still bother with all terrain's has me beat... there is nothing "all terrain" about an all terrain apart from being average at all things & good at nothing.

don't waste your money unless it's a real aggressive AT.

Fully agreed. Costs roughly the same, works ten times better on ALL surfaces if ya buy a good one.

They all last for ages on zooks anyway.

My other argument/point is it's an unrestricted advantage... bit like rocking up to the drag strip in your mum's VR commy & running a set of Mickey Thompson E/T drag slicks, it's an instant upper hand.

[GeckoXL7]

GT AT2 on jimny