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Joined: Tue Mar 27, 2012 3:13 pm
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Vehicle: 82 1ltr, 93 1.3 with 6.5's

Post Posted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 11:56 am 
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Heya

I have a 94 wt sierra with no body lift and am wanting to fit a set of sliders to it
Just wondering as to how others have fitted it to the chassis (not wanting to weld as there is a shit load more involved)
Ive had a look in the fabrication section and cant seem to find anything
Can anyone show a couple of pics as examples or shed some light as to options for fitting them with brackets, bolts and crush tubes

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Joined: Sat Jan 28, 2012 8:35 pm
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Vehicle: Coily Sierra

Post Posted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 1:03 pm 
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Hey mate, unable to help with your leafy but here's a shot of how i mounted my coily sliders


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Location: AUS

Post Posted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 1:08 pm 
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on other vehicles I have fitted these to, either have a peice of flat plate you insert on the inner side of the chassis rail, then pass two long bolts top and bottom to the mounting plate on the side rails.. Both bolts end up snug top and bottom of the rail. Tighten causing a sandwhich effect.

Also had instances where big Square bend U bolts are used instead of the flat plate.

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Vehicle: 82 1ltr, 93 1.3 with 6.5's

Post Posted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 2:07 pm 
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Ahh okay
Im just not sure because there is only a 10mm or so gap between the body and the chassis at the front nd didnt know if i should use plate to go over the top or large u bolts

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Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:30 pm
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Post Posted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 3:03 pm 
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I dislike any slider that results in anything hanging further below the chassis than the thickness of the steel the bracket is made from. U bolts, flat plates, bolts etc are all unacceptable in my opinion- in adding sliders to protect the car you've
Just made it less capable and therfore more likely to need them.

A u shaped plate that hugs the chassis on the sides and bottom and bolts with a crush sleeve at the top is ideal.

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 4:13 pm 
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Yeh I wouldn't use plate accross the top of the rail, only on the side as you have more clamping area. Id still use a bolt and crush tube at the top. Rails/sidesteps are for concrete princesses in my opinion and just another thing to get hung up on. Just on the weekend had to assist a bloke in a hilux who got hung up on his front sidestep bracket. Beached out completely on it and had to be snatched out.

Ive had to insert U bolts between fuel tanks with no body/chassis room and on top of that between fuel rails in the same spot. Sierras are more friendly to work on than the later cars. Any room is a luxury but it can be done.

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Vehicle: 82 1ltr, 93 1.3 with 6.5's

Post Posted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 8:04 am 
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Thanks for the advice
Ive got a rough idea as to how im going to fit them up now
Just gotta actually get around to doing it

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Location: kinglake, VIC

Post Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 8:40 pm 
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Perhaps look at cutting out your sill and replacing it with rhs. Hardly more work than making all the u mounts etc and doesn't comprise ground clearance, it actually increases it by about 30mmish. Ive done it works out well. Used 100x50x4 if i remember correctly, Took me an arvo or two to do it.

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Location: Mandurah.W.A.
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Post Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 7:31 am 
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Joshyboy26 wrote:
Perhaps look at cutting out your sill and replacing it with rhs. Hardly more work than making all the u mounts etc and doesn't comprise ground clearance, it actually increases it by about 30mmish. Ive done it works out well. Used 100x50x4 if i remember correctly, Took me an arvo or two to do it.

pompoms
After having chassis mount sliders I wouldn't bother with them again. I use to end up getting caught in places where I didn't get caught before having them

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 10:21 am 
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I wouldn't cut out the sill. but even cutting out a section in 2mm tube lengthways and slot it over the edge of the sill and weld in place will give the sills a sliding effect on shit. Remembering the chassis and diffs are a lot lower anyway and will probably take the brunt.

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 10:27 am 
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You will probably just push the sills in if you do that and fark them completely.

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 10:44 am 
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no because the load will be spread across instead of one point.

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 3:44 pm 
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I was thinking at one stage of cutting out the sills and replacing with rhs but wasnt sure as to where and what to cut
Also wanted to put side/brush bars on later so thought the sliders would make it easier to mount them.

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 3:48 pm 
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You could just mount the brush bars to the RHS. It's pretty simple as to see where to cut, the line at the bottom of the door where the body flares out a couple of mm is where I cut and then across the back above the floor. Join the two cuts and off it comes.

The load wouldn't really be spread out if you just welded on a section of tube over the length of the sill. It will have a higher resistance to denting purely from material thickness but it will still bend rather easily. Especially 2mm.

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 4:19 pm 
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Rhs sills Image

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 5:32 pm 
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Is that 100x50x4 rhs ^^
Cause that looks better than chassis mount

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 5:47 pm 
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4mm would be overkill in my opinion. Mine are 3mm and speed holed and I've been on them pretty hard with no damage.

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 6:11 pm 
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100x50x2.5

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 7:12 pm 
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Nice. That's heaps.

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Joined: Sun Sep 05, 2010 11:58 am
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Post Posted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 7:28 pm 
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For sliders I had a piece of 3mm plate bent 90 degrees to make 100 x 100 angle that was pop riveted to the sill, no need to make brackets or weld anything and clearance is unaffected (regular 100x100 angle is 5 or 6mm thick and too heavy).

Image

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