[Sausager]

Hey guys. I have an SJ413 (which I'm sure is the same as what you guys call a narrow track) which I am putting a 16v g16a into. I am curious to know what you guys have done to put a check engine light into the dash and keep it looking nice and tidy. There are spaces for spare bulbs in the dash, but no CEL "shine through" in the black strip along the bottom.

I'm going to wire in a seperate (bright) red light into my dash in another place, but I am curious to see what you guys have done

Cheers

[Gwagensteve]

You can cut the Check engine icon out of a Vitara and splice it into the band that has the rest of the idiot lights in it. I've done this with NT's before.

I don't quite get having a big bright light for the CE light. It's never telling you anything critical/important. If the light comes on it's not critical to anything unless you subsequently feel a problem.

If you're interested, here's a couple of ideas -

Wire a bright dash light to the oil pressure light. If you're on a big enough angle to throw the oil pressure light, you're 100% not looking at the gauge. Personally, I wouldn't be bothered with this because from my experience, the car isn't driving at all (like it's totally it's side) so you're turning the car off anyway.

Wire a switch up to throw the CE light into diagnostics mode. Then if the light comes on you can throw the switch and read the trouble codes. I did this with the trolley tug build.

Steve.

[Sausager]

Hi Steve.

I did consider cutting the icon out and putting it into the dash, but I didn't know if I could do it tidily. And if it looked crap then it would forever bother me. Would you happen to have pics of how you did it?

Having a light is basically a tidy and easy solve n my eyes. I'm not going to put it somewhere that it is going to blind me if it comes on, just somewhere that I will notice it.

The switch for checking fault codes is a ridiculously good idea. I might steal that... Cheers.

[Blkfxx]

Here's mine, just cut out 'cel' section from a donor cluster (baleno) then cut out a spare spot on my cluster and glued it in. You can tell it's been grafted in daylight. I don't know if anyone has a better way other than using a WT cluster that already has a CEL, but then you have to change wiring too.

[Gwagensteve]

I'm not sure I do have a photo - The car I did it with was completed many years ago. It looked very tidy - Thanks Blkfxx

I still can't see the point of two CE lights. In the case of a G16A (so early 16V Vitara) The trouble codes are very basic and so long as the oxygen sensor is operational and the VSS connected I'd be very surprised if the ECU ever throws a CE light.

Even if both of those things fail the car will drive just fine, you'll just have the light on.

Other than that, a failure (say the AFM or something) and you'll have a very poorly driving car immediately. Sure, the light will come on, but the problem will be obvious and immediate. Throw the diagnostic switch, count the flashes, fix the problem.

Here is every trouble code the ECU can throw, from the FSM for the early G16 multipoint EFI

Oxygen sensor - Car will continue to drive fine - doesn't need immediate attention form my experience.
WTS - check your temp gauge to decide if its real - car may rev high/run rich - never ever seen the code thrown
TPS- You'll know something is up well before the light comes on. Never seen the code
ATS - Might run really rich or lean, will probably still drive fine, never seen the code
VSS- Car will continue to drive fine - doesn't need immediate attention from my experience.
AFM - car will run like a complete dog immediately. You can check this by unplugging the AFM with the engine running. You won't need the light to tell you from my experience.
Ignition fail safe - Car won't run at all, you won't need a light to tell you this.
CAS - Car won't run, you won't need a light to tell you this.
ECM - car won't run,you won't need a light to tell you this.

These trouble codes are just sensor checks - so if, say there is no signal at all or there is a signal way beyond the calibration. The light won't light if you have a "slightly unusual" condition.
For example, I'll use the VSS. If the engine is under prolonged load but no VSS signal is received, it will throw the code. It won't throw the code if the engine RPM doesn't match what the computer thinks ground speed should be, because it doesn't know - there's either a signal or not.

Apply this case to every code here and you can see that the car could be driving like a dog but still not throw a code. It's not like OBDII where you can see ranges to confirm if something is normal or not. In fact, Those of us with EFI G16's have probably all had issues with IAC where they will surge and pulse. It's a complete pain and can make the car almost undrivable. It's not monitored by the computer in any way so we can't use diagnostics to locate the problem - even when they're chugging and surging and lurching down the road they won't ever throw the CE Light. It also won't throw a code due to ignition, fuel pressure or injector faults. The computer does't look for them. Again, you can disconnect a plug lead or injector with the engine running to prove this if you feel like it.

the coil pack Baleno has much more sophisticated diagnostics, but regardless, drive the car on what you can feel and double check with the diagnostic codes if something unusual happens. You don't need a secondary "STOP NOW" light like you do for oil pressure if you're driving crazy angles.

By all means fit one if you want, but in my opinion, backed up by loads of experience with these early EFI motors, there's absolutely no point.

[Sausager]

Gwagensteve wrote:

I still can't see the point of two CE lights. In the case of a G16A (so early 16V Vitara) The trouble codes are very basic and so long as the oxygen sensor is operational and the VSS connected I'd be very ....

Steve, I won't have two. My SJ413 has no existing ECU, CEL or even the 'icon' in the dash. So I'll be adding one from none. Do your NTs come out with CELs?

I appreciate the information and the response. I figure that I am better off having a light than not having one. Sure, the codes it throws might be simple but if it helps even to eliminate variables if something does go wrong, then I'm better off with it.

I appreciate the info, cheers

[Gwagensteve]

Sorry if there's any confusion here - this

Quote:

I'm going to wire in a seperate (bright) red light into my dash in another place, but I am curious to see what you guys have done

is what made it sound like you were going to add a bright light (like a shift light or similar) in addition to the factory CEL, maybe regardless of whether you had the CEL set into the dash.

In my opinion, even with the limited usefulness for actual diagnostics, a CEL is an integral part of installing an EFI motor. It just doesn't need to be a bright "stop now" type of light, like you'd use for oil pressure.

Steve.

[rexhunta]

i made a small aluminium panel for the 3 lights when I wired in the auto conversion for another member. Narva 12v LED orange/green/red ( overdrive on/off, power/economy and check engine. ) Just make sure you use the black/white as the input otherwise the light won't work. Sits where the ashtray would usually go.

[Joe]

I like Birko's idea

birko wrote:

Dash cluster, the check engine light is a green globe which is seen through a very small drilled hole in the cluster, as unlike the 1.3 dash there is no provision for a check light.
The aftermarket speco tacho also works with the feed straight from the tacho output from the ecu

[Gwagensteve]

But that dash is the same as the JU 1.3 dash and the check engine icon can be added where the green light is. That's been done too.

[Joe]

Wtf is a JU?

[Gwagensteve]

Base model sierra. No rear seats, no tach, no rear paneling on hard tops.
Was the 16" rim model until WT.

Gregc's white hardtop was a JU.