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Post Posted: Mon Nov 14, 2016 6:44 am 
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Hey everyone,

So I have just finished installing my slimline subwoofer and put 90% of the panels back so i can drive it again, however I am now faced with a puzzling issue.
The drivers Electric window no longer works, however the passenger side does off the drivers panel. I believe it may have something to do with the fact that I accidentally touched a positive to the seat rail and caused a spark that blew the Aux box fuse (so glad I installed it!)
But I cannot for the life of me find any fuses that relate to electric windows. The closest I can see is door locks, and I pulled that and the windows still work, so it's not that.

I'm hoping I didn't destroy the winder component in the door, but it seems odd if it were to only destroy one?
With the car running, pressing the button either up or down does make the idle change as if it were going up or down, but the glass doesn't actually move..

Any suggestions on where to look?
Cheers


Last edited by Kor3y101 on Tue Nov 15, 2016 5:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Mon Nov 14, 2016 11:32 am 
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First - unless the "positive" you shorted to the seat rail was wired to the power window the two events are unlikely to be related.

The window MAY just be jammed - I had those symptoms (idle speed varying) on one of my vehicles - I popped the door panel out and slackened the bolts holding the regulator (as the first step to removing it) and it started working again - so I just lubed it and tightened the screws again.

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 14, 2016 6:23 pm 
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The "positive" cable I arched out was the cable running to my Aux fuse Box, so completely unrelated cables.
It just seems suspicious as it was working perfectly the day before I started to run cabling for the light and subwoofer. It didn't give any hint of being tight or stuck prior to that. I tried to force the window down with my hands while pressing on the switch and it didn't move. So it may be stuck but just seems odd.

I did find this on the interwebs though;
Image

So I will try that and see if it makes any difference.

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 14, 2016 7:21 pm 
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So I put a pin in the small hole but could not hear a click and I was pushing it fairly hard.
I jiggled all the cables and made sure all the fuses were tight incase I bumped something. Still nothing though.

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 14, 2016 8:17 pm 
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If the overload breaker tripped then no windows would work full stop so the problem isnt there.

Its a really simple process of elimination and it quite possibly has nothing to do with your short.

take off the drivers door card and hook 12v directly to the regulator , reverse the polarity to make it alternate from up or down.

If the reg works with voltage supplied directly to it then you either have a switch or a wiring problem. Usually if it is wiring it will will be a broken wire in the boot between the body and door. Take off the r/h kick panel and check continuity between the wiring from there and the switch .If all wires have continuity then its most likely the switch itself.

Or you can pay me to come diagnose it for you..

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 6:48 am 
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Okay, so upon further inspection, I found the cables that run to the window regulator.
I applied 12v both ways and it makes a very subtle quiet click, but nothing happens. I apply 12v to the passenger wiring (on the driver's side) and I can make the window go up and down.
I have sprayed lube all through the window tracks and made sure nothing is stuck in there and it all looks good.

So I assume this means the window motor is dead?

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 5:48 pm 
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So after trying to troubleshoot again tonight, the drivers motor is definitely making an audible click. Almost as if it's trying to move it but it can't.
Is this a symptom of the window motor dieing? Or does it just not make any sounds and completely die?
Also, when I put power to the wires that control the window, it creates a bit of a spark when taking them back off, but the passenger side doesn't?

Any suggestions on how to try to unstick the window incase that is the issue? I have sprayed silicone lube all over the tracks and tried to force it down with my hand while pushing the button.. failing that, I may have to get someone to look at it.

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 8:51 pm 
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Loosen the screws that hold the regulator to the door, and then try to power it down.

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Post Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2016 7:11 am 
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fordem wrote:
Loosen the screws that hold the regulator to the door, and then try to power it down.



Fordem, what the actual fudge... is this some sort of black wizardry?!?
Low and behold it bloody works. I had to pull my drill out to undo them, but then just hand tightened them back up and it works as per normal now.

Thank you kindly good sir!

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Post Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2016 1:40 pm 
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No wizardry, just experience - wind the window up and watch the door as the window reaches "end of travel" - if you continue to hold the switch, you'll see the frame flex outwards - the motor & gears can apply significant pressure, and that can jam the motor preventing it from turning.

The "tip off" is that the idle speed varies when the switch is operated, even though the window doesn't move - the motor is drawing current and loading the electrical system but it's not developing enough torque to move the window, loosening the screws gives you a millimeter or two of movement, relieving the stress.

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Post Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2016 6:16 pm 
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Love this place. Well done.


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