[Andygoodbloke]

Hi all
My project continues.
To continue I need a repair certificate which is an inspection from a certifier to say the body is to a standard that it will not hurt anyone in or outside the vehicle and it is completely sound and safe to use.

He has marked many areas on the body where he wants it taken back to metal, checked before paint is re-applied, in all the spots 1980s Suzukis are known to rest out, such as along the roof gutter.

I have purposely not touched the underbody and this has to be stripped back to metal, inspected and painted - it is a pain but having worked on the vehicle for 2 years believe it is just a matter of doing it.

Other issues have also been raised. I have a bull bar on the front and no bumper. There is an exposed round bar which I think was used as protection behind the bumper. and bumper mounting points - my question is how long is this standard bar? The inspector looked at it and said it has been cut down as one end isn't square, so before I weld another bar to it, I would like to know the standard length. Please see the picture below for the round bar in question incase I am not making sense - again.

I am referring to the black bar in front of the dampening shock in yellow in the pic

Thanks Andy

[Jezzer]

The ends of that bar is used to mount the front bumper, they get cut off to fit larger tyres,

[Andygoodbloke]

Thanks Jezzer
I will have to make some square end plates, or see if I can cut them off another vehicle
Could you do me a favour and measure the length and width of the square plates please which will allow me to make a set and get them welded on, plus the length out from the edge of the chassis rail to the square plate.

Thank you

[UBZ]

If your doing welding to that part of the chassis to satisfy the certifier , it will need to be done by a certified welder as its chassis welding .i would ask for a heavy duty pipe to be slide all the way through for strength . I’ve seen a lot of those tubes bent by people snatching on the tie point or fitting recovery hooks to it . Was a fairly standard mod to zuks back in the day to cut those ends off and weld a pice of heavy pipe all the way through . I’ve done that to several of mine . Also I would be looking at some crush tubes in the chassis end instead of just the standard holes for the bull bar mount . Worth doing imho if your going to all the trouble of certified welding .

[Andygoodbloke]

Thanks UBZ
The repair certifier did not advise it had to be certified welder. He basically saw a cut end which was a different cut angle to the other end. After looking at the pic Jezzer sent, I planned to find the size and cut square plates for the ends and weld them on, I have tow hooks on a better spot, so just want it back to standard which is why I asked for the length out from the chassis rail and the size of the plate. It is never going to be used and as soon as it is legal the grinder will come out and remove it.

It is great to hear of your option to strengthen, as I was thinking of making a neat fitting over bars to be bolted on with the plate on the end, that way it is not welded

Thanks Andy

[UBZ]

I would double check with your certifier before you go welding on the chassis which is generally considered the main structural part of the vechile , and being so close to the front spring mount .
Especially given that he wants a lot of areas back to bare metal for inspection .
I’ve seen a few trucks fail certification here due to chassis welding . Worth asking first .
Every certifier is different and a lot of the rule are open to there own interpretation

[Andygoodbloke]

Thanks UBZ
Can you give me the bar lengths from chassis to the square plate and width of the plate so I can make a set up, then get them welded on by a certified welder.

Thanks Andy

[UBZ]

Andygoodbloke wrote:

Thanks UBZ
Can you give me the bar lengths from chassis to the square plate and width of the plate so I can make a set up, then get them welded on by a certified welder.

Thanks Andy

Sorry Andy

All my Zuks have had those bits cut off long ago

Chris

[Andygoodbloke]

Can anyone help please?
Thanks Andy

[Jezzer]

Sorry I keep forgetting to look into this. Plate is 240mm from the chassis and the plate is 140mm high by 60mm wide

[Andygoodbloke]

Thank you so much Jezzer
I tried to work it out from pictures in the Haynes manual and parts diagrams and your pic - I was surprisingly close as I said 200 from the chassis and 120mm by 80mm for the plate.

Cheers Andy