[TheOtherLeft]

I just read the FSM and it did mention bleeding the LSPV for non-ABS vehicles. Bugger...something I didn't realise I had to do.

My brakes work fine and in the wet when I lock the brakes, the front lock up first, which I think is the way it's meant to act as rears locking lead to the end sliding out. With the fronts locking up you skid straight. Sorta like doing skids on your pushie. Is this correct?

[bristlenose2008]

Mugwui wrote:

Can anyone tell me how to bleed the rear brakes on my GV?
I thought this was going to be a simple job, but I just cannot get the fluid to flow.####

See if anyone make this for your car:

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.ph ... eders.html

[TheOtherLeft]

I was thinking about buying one of these hand vacuum bleeder kits instead:

Mityvac

Does anyone have any experience with this brand?

[fordem]

Experience with the brand - hmmm - I have one of their vacuum/pressure hand pumps, it looks like the one in the kit, but then they all look alike - I bought it back in January to troubleshoot the free wheel air pump on my GV.

It looks like a well made product and they sell "rebuild" kits so I assume they expect you to repair rather than replace, which I would say is a good sign.

I may or may not get the rest of the bleed kit - might just cobble it together myself - all you really need is an air tight jar and two lengths of the right sized tubing.

Oh - mine is the less expensive plastic version.

[shabz]

I've been using one of these for years

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Lisle-19200-Brak ... 27babceac9


Simple one man operation. connect it to the nipple, pump the pedal, tighten the nipple up when you see clean fluid with no bubbles in the hose. The bottle just stops air getting back in.

[Bazooka]

And dont forget...if the system ran out of fluid completely then there may be air in the master cyl which can cause a spongy pedal. Bleed it where the pipes go in ...loosen the pipe ...pedal down (The brake not the clutch ...that was funny) tighten the pipe pedal up.

Brake fluid should be changed every 12 months ...its hydroscopic and adsorbs water and moister which finds its way the wheel cyls and master cyl and thats what corrodes them.