[harvey01]

how do people but checker plate on there sills?

[Zook_Fan]

sikaflex and rivets

[harvey01]

yea but there is that bent up steel where the plastic mounts too do you take that off or not?

[89_tintop]

grind that off mate.. and paint it

then sikaflex the checker plate on

[Rusho]

Off....grinder, sikaflex then rivets

[Zook_Fan]

sorry. yes you need a bare sill before you put the chequer down. rip the plastic off then for the metal holders you can either go real slow with a griding disc on a grinder or do it properly and get a spot weld drill bit. then give it a lick of paint, sikaflex it in place and rivets as well.

my advice is don't do it. i did it to mine and i wish i hadn't...

[harvey01]

ok thanks guys. can you buy black checker plate or do you have too paint it

[Zook_Fan]

etch primer first then paint.

[harvey01]

ok thanks for you help

[harvey01]

how do yous go about sand getting behind the checker plate or water leaking into car where you drill holes for pop riviots

[Rusho]

Water won't leak in, it's just the outside skin your drilling into. If you seal
it properly sand and the like shouldn't get in, you will just have to be a bit more cautious when cleaning and pay a bit more attention in that area

[Gwagensteve]

Why checkerplate? It doesn't slide on anything - it's designed to provide grip for your feet, not slide like you want your car to do on a rock.

In fact, you don't want alloy at all - it galls and grabs on rock in common grades.

go with smooth material, probably 1.6mm of steel IMHO.

It can still be attached as per the other posts.

Steve.

[ZookiMonsta]

What about carbon fibre?

[Scrawny]

Zook_Fan wrote:

sorry. yes you need a bare sill before you put the chequer down. rip the plastic off then for the metal holders you can either go real slow with a griding disc on a grinder or do it properly and get a spot weld drill bit. then give it a lick of paint, sikaflex it in place and rivets as well.

my advice is don't do it. i did it to mine and i wish i hadn't...

I had to laugh at this

I prefer the idea of just grinding the top layer (folded sheet steel) away rather than drilling holes right through but each to their own

[Zook_Fan]

thats how i did it as well but i also made a few mistakes. i would have prefered a few small holes then some of the cuts i made..

[harvey01]

i just wanted it for look's because the plastic looks like shit

[shep]

ScrawnC wrote:

Zook_Fan wrote:

sorry. yes you need a bare sill before you put the chequer down. rip the plastic off then for the metal holders you can either go real slow with a griding disc on a grinder or do it properly and get a spot weld drill bit. then give it a lick of paint, sikaflex it in place and rivets as well.

my advice is don't do it. i did it to mine and i wish i hadn't...

I had to laugh at this

I prefer the idea of just grinding the top layer (folded sheet steel) away rather than drilling holes right through but each to their own

my spot weld drill is like a little hole saw with a spring loaded center pin and it
just cuts the first layer. only rough people go all the way through.

[alien]

personally i think the plastic is great visually (style wise) but not aesthetically - when mine get too rusty ill be getting 1.5mm steel folded to the correct shape, painted and bolted on - it might not be super strong but will look factory still, and be stronger than the plastic.

[chris_mac]

I used grinder to remove the metal bits, but not grinding disc but medium or fine flapp disc (can't remembre now which one was it ) it it was fine, I had a lot of rust, and cleaned it with flapp disc, takes longer. than I fabricated side steps and rock sliders like those ones http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.ph ... iders.html

However I didnt mount them to the chasis and body, but only to the body. I didn't like the idea of having body and chasis being bolt solid together with without bush.