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Post Posted: Sun May 01, 2011 8:26 am 
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ive found heaps of brake problem threads but cant find the procedure for adjusting rear drums on a sierra. Its a coily but i presume its done the same way. maybe someone could write a tech page on it.

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Post Posted: Sun May 01, 2011 8:29 am 
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release handbrake

pump brake pedal a few times

job done :)

if you have a low pedal you have a problem, either wear in the hole the adjuster works on in the shoe, worn shoes, oversize drums, seized adjusters etc.

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Post Posted: Sun May 01, 2011 8:29 am 
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they are self adjusting mate.

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Post Posted: Sun May 01, 2011 8:35 am 
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I know with the vitara, they're self adjusting. At one stage I thought mine would need adjusting but I removed the drum and found I needed new shoes So perhaps remove the drum and inspect the shoes to see how much meat is on there.

Otherwise there is an adjusting nut on the back of the handbrake lever or underneath, It should only be retentioned is the cable is not tight enough.

And here's a Tech thread on how to replace shoes: http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... ic&t=19978

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Post Posted: Sun May 01, 2011 8:41 am 
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Ditto that they're self adjusting. From memory the manual says something along the lines of "hold 8kg of pressure for 3 seconds, then repeat x3"?
* Pressure and duration are estimates only, refer to manual for correct specs.

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Post Posted: Sun May 01, 2011 8:50 am 
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How about adjusting handbrake cable ?

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Post Posted: Sun May 01, 2011 8:52 am 
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well during a muddy glasshouse run i got a soft pedal and no handbrake. I cleaned the mud out today and still no luck. I notice when i brake the rh drum clicks like wheel of fortune. When i had the drums off i worked the handbrake spring on the drum and there was not much movement with the shoes.

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Post Posted: Sun May 01, 2011 8:52 am 
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swifty_ano wrote:
How about adjusting handbrake cable ?


if your back brakes are working properly there is no need to adjust the handbrake cable for anything other than how many clicks it pulls up, it wont make it work any better, infact will make it worse

ive never adjusted mine

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Post Posted: Sun May 01, 2011 8:57 am 
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the adjuster might be seized and jumping on those teeth?

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Post Posted: Sun May 01, 2011 8:59 am 
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How do you adjust the clicks? Mine is all the way up and still doesn't work very well.

Had new brakes when I bought it. Pssssssh@ doubt it


Last edited by swifty_ano on Sun May 01, 2011 9:00 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Sun May 01, 2011 8:59 am 
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also the handbrake cable holder on the diff has been hitting the panhard mount. The cable popped out the holder and lost its tension.


Last edited by coily96 on Sun May 01, 2011 9:03 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Sun May 01, 2011 9:03 am 
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yeah with mud you really need to at least once pull em apart and clean out the moving bits and put some never seize on em

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Post Posted: Sun May 01, 2011 9:07 am 
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can i clean out the adjuster and cylinder incase they could of dried up with mud?

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Post Posted: Sun May 01, 2011 9:24 am 
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yeah I would, youll see what bits need to be able to move freely

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Post Posted: Sun May 08, 2011 10:26 am 
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solved!!! The rear panhard mount on the body has been making contact with the rh rear handbrake cable mount on the diff. It mashed the holder and the cable came off the diff. Inside the drum the front shoe was sitting out of its locator where the cylinder shaft meets the shoe, when pushing the brake pedal the front shoe in the rh rear drum didnt move. Also new shoes and an adjustment will help. Fixed two problems in one go, one being the brakes and two being the clunking noise from the loose handbrake cable.

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Post Posted: Sun May 08, 2011 12:43 pm 
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royce wrote:
release handbrake

pump brake pedal a few times

job done :)

if you have a low pedal you have a problem, either wear in the hole the adjuster works on in the shoe, worn shoes, oversize drums, seized adjusters etc.


Yea auto adjuster works with what shoes?? All the bloody shoe's ive tried have wayyy to bigger slot where the auto adjuster slots into them. Thus the shoes have to move like 10mm before they even engage the auto adjuster mechanism.

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Post Posted: Sun May 08, 2011 7:02 pm 
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Even with everything working as it should the auto adjusting system never gets it good. I always give it a couple more clicks manually to get a better pedal (I hate spongy brake pedals)

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Post Posted: Sun May 08, 2011 11:35 pm 
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Scrawn wrote:
Even with everything working as it should the auto adjusting system never gets it good. I always give it a couple more clicks manually to get a better pedal (I hate spongy brake pedals)


Correct!

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Post Posted: Mon May 09, 2011 12:05 am 
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JrZook wrote:
royce wrote:
release handbrake

pump brake pedal a few times

job done :)

if you have a low pedal you have a problem, either wear in the hole the adjuster works on in the shoe, worn shoes, oversize drums, seized adjusters etc.


Yea auto adjuster works with what shoes?? All the bloody shoe's ive tried have wayyy to bigger slot where the auto adjuster slots into them. Thus the shoes have to move like 10mm before they even engage the auto adjuster mechanism.


on non mud pluggers that get a decent amount of life from the shoes, weld the hole up and file it back to a gap that suits you :wink:

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Post Posted: Mon May 09, 2011 12:29 am 
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royce wrote:
JrZook wrote:
royce wrote:
release handbrake

pump brake pedal a few times

job done :)

if you have a low pedal you have a problem, either wear in the hole the adjuster works on in the shoe, worn shoes, oversize drums, seized adjusters etc.


Yea auto adjuster works with what shoes?? All the bloody shoe's ive tried have wayyy to bigger slot where the auto adjuster slots into them. Thus the shoes have to move like 10mm before they even engage the auto adjuster mechanism.


on non mud pluggers that get a decent amount of life from the shoes, weld the hole up and file it back to a gap that suits you :wink:


Brilliant minds think alike :wink:

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