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Joined: Sun May 01, 2011 6:29 pm
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Location: Banksia Grove, WA

Post Posted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 12:50 pm 
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G'day all,

Sencond question of the week.

I am at the stage where I need to tension the timing belt so I have the idler pulley bolted likely to the block through the tensioner arm thingy...

Problem is when the slide on the tensioner is maxed out the belt is no where near tight... Can someone please post a diagram or detailed picture for me to check against cause I can't see where I've gone wrong.

Regards, Carl.

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 12:58 pm 
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It's not picture buy it could be the wrong tensioner or wrong belt double check your part numbers

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Location: Yakima, wa (us)

Post Posted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 1:15 pm 
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If are sure you have the right part,play around with the pulley when the bolt is loose. I kind of had to play with the tensioner pulley a little bit to figure out how it worked, they are weird little buggers the way the bolt goes through.

Also, the spring that comes in the kit doesn;t always add enough tension, but you definitely don't want to much either.

How I was told to check and set tension was to twist the belt with my fingers. The belt should twist to 90 degrees, but no further or it is too lose. I have set tension this way on several different 1.3's and 1.6 8 valves with no dramas.

I hope that helps.

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 7:16 pm 
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2 x 1.6 if it helps

Image

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 9:01 pm 
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check your tensioner, the steel adjuster plate has a metal tooth that engages into the tensioner pulley to pull it over against the belt.

when the tensioner is loosened off the tooth can actually jump out of it's hole and not completely tension the belt.

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 11:13 pm 
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skyman wrote:
If are sure you have the right part,play around with the pulley when the bolt is loose. I kind of had to play with the tensioner pulley a little bit to figure out how it worked, they are weird little buggers the way the bolt goes through.

Also, the spring that comes in the kit doesn;t always add enough tension, but you definitely don't want to much either.

How I was told to check and set tension was to twist the belt with my fingers. The belt should twist to 90 degrees, but no further or it is too lose. I have set tension this way on several different 1.3's and 1.6 8 valves with no dramas.

I hope that helps.


Yep this is how I do my setups. Gets rid of that stupid spring forever!

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Joined: Sun May 01, 2011 6:29 pm
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Location: Banksia Grove, WA

Post Posted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 12:03 pm 
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Thanks for the reply guys, judging by the first picture I have it setup right but it must be the wrong swivel bracket as it does tension just when it does it's past the point where you can tighten it. If I can't find the right one tomorow I'll just weld another tab further along (bit that slots into bearing)

Again thanks for the replus, I'll remove that spring and use the aforementioned method.

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 9:34 pm 
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Once you crank it over a couple of times by hand it will tighten aswell but u have to make sure tensioner is in correct position

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 9:38 pm 
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nascpro44 wrote:
Once you crank it over a couple of times by hand it will tighten aswell but u have to make sure tensioner is in correct position


What?

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 11:53 pm 
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BlueSuzy wrote:
nascpro44 wrote:
Once you crank it over a couple of times by hand it will tighten aswell but u have to make sure tensioner is in correct position


What?


i think he mean, that once you wind it over by hand a few times the engine with self tension.

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Post Posted: Sat Dec 10, 2011 12:12 am 
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shandy92 wrote:
BlueSuzy wrote:
nascpro44 wrote:
Once you crank it over a couple of times by hand it will tighten aswell but u have to make sure tensioner is in correct position


What?


i think he mean, that once you wind it over by hand a few times the engine with self tension.


with that wee lil spring?????

Doubt it.........


The reason you wind it over is to double check it's timed correctly.....

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Post Posted: Sat Dec 10, 2011 12:16 am 
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G13 tensioner is different looking to the G16 as well, the slot and bolt is more beside it than above it

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Post Posted: Sat Dec 10, 2011 12:53 am 
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steak_knife wrote:
shandy92 wrote:
BlueSuzy wrote:
nascpro44 wrote:
Once you crank it over a couple of times by hand it will tighten aswell but u have to make sure tensioner is in correct position


What?


i think he mean, that once you wind it over by hand a few times the engine with self tension.


with that wee lil spring?????

Doubt it.........


The reason you wind it over is to double check it's timed correctly.....


That spring is almost pointless. Ever seen a self tensioner? You normally need a spanner to grab the bolt on the tensioner arm and leaver off it to get the tension off a belt as the springs are much stronger.

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Post Posted: Sat Dec 10, 2011 1:07 am 
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BlueSuzy wrote:
steak_knife wrote:
shandy92 wrote:
BlueSuzy wrote:
nascpro44 wrote:
Once you crank it over a couple of times by hand it will tighten aswell but u have to make sure tensioner is in correct position


What?


i think he mean, that once you wind it over by hand a few times the engine with self tension.


with that wee lil spring?????

Doubt it.........


The reason you wind it over is to double check it's timed correctly.....


That spring is almost pointless. Ever seen a self tensioner? You normally need a spanner to grab the bolt on the tensioner arm and leaver off it to get the tension off a belt as the springs are much stronger.


I've seen one or two in my yr's as a florist..... :helloo:

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Joined: Sun May 01, 2011 6:29 pm
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Location: Banksia Grove, WA

Post Posted: Fri Dec 16, 2011 9:58 am 
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Ok ive been to suzistore and got the newer tensioner arm. The only difference is that the tab that slots into the bearing is further round. That should slove the issue.

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