[Perram]

Sorry for another RUF question but just going to ask anyway

My plan is to chop the rear hanger and move it back 25mm reweld add stock good condition rear leaf back(load leaf removed) straight up with 100m shackles

Now if that's right I should
A. Now have now steering bind problems.
B. axel still be situated in around about the same distance from tran but obviously lower.
C. Have no need to re-drill leaf pack.
D. Have a sweet off roader but retaining most of its on road qualities.

If there is anything else I should know or is wrong please advise!!!

Cheers Jake

[shiv]

using a rear spring pack and longer shackle would achieve the same result wouldnt it?

[Perram]

The rear spring is longer so better drop and flex

But I'm far from an expert

[Perram]

Sorry didn't mean to sound snobbish

I meant I thought that putting the longer stock rears in the front replacing the shorter fronts would increase drop. Which is what I'm looking for, and also shocks and brake lines..

[Gwagensteve]

There's no need to redrill the leaf pack under any circumstances, full RUF, 1/2 Ruf whatever -re drilling the spring pad on the axle and U bolt plate is the correct method to move the axle fore-aft relative to the spring ends.

You're obviously not afraid to cut and weld VERY critical parts of the car - I'm curious why you've chosen this path rather than full RUF with the spring pads redrilled to pull the axle back. I'd suggest it's likley that at some stage in the future, you might want the axle to come forward to assist in firewall clearance, so it seems a shame to cut off the spring hangers.

Just my 2C.

There is no difference in road performance between full and 1/2 ruf. It's really an issue of the slight wheelbase stretch moving the COG of the car rearwards which assists in off road capability.

Steve.

[Perram]

That's what i was looking for thanks

I was unsure of the on road performance of the full RUF.
Now uv broken that down for me. Going to stew on it.
I won't be running bigger tyres. 225's at most so that settles the wheels clearance issue. but it seemed a half RUF was allot easier to achive than full,
As there is no extending of the chassis and only minimal weld work.. Also I like how it drives with the shorter wheel base

I have followed mophs tin top and his half RUF set up, although I know it's bolted on.
As for welding I am confident with my abilities on stick and mig.

.edit. Cheers Jake

[KEENSY85]

They way u are talking about doing it will be 100 percent under cover wich is awesome.
If u decided u wanted the firewall clearance later u could re drill the spring pads and what not later and it would still be Neer impossible to detect, but horses for courses there's more then 1 way to skin a cat

[Perram]

Sweet!!!

Been watching ur build sweet work!!

Jake

[2stroker]

Perram once you do this you will see that it is easier to leave the rear mount where it is and move the front forward, drill the perches and plates to reposition the housing like Gwagensteve said. If you are worried about on road then forget about those extended shackles.

[fully sick coily]

straight up with 100m shackles

[atari4x4]

100m shackles

[fully sick coily]

Perram wrote:

Sorry for another RUF question but just going to ask anyway

My plan is to chop the rear hanger and move it back 25mm reweld add stock good condition rear leaf back(load leaf removed) straight up with 100m shackles

Now if that's right I should
A. Now have now steering bind problems.
B. axel still be situated in around about the same distance from tran but obviously lower.
C. Have no need to re-drill leaf pack.
D. Have a sweet off roader but retaining most of its on road qualities.

If there is anything else I should know or is wrong please advise!!!

Cheers Jake

[atari4x4]