[swifty_ano]

Started putting my 3" calmini lift in my vitara an now could really not be bothered.
Anyone interested in finishing it for me.

I just pulled the calipers off haha that's all I've gotten too

[atari4x4]

why did you need to remove the calipers?

[swifty_ano]

Pretty much step 3 or so in instructions

[atari4x4]

instructions, who reads instructions.... what sort of man are you?

[swifty_ano]

That's what I'm doing wrong haha
I was wondering why I needed to do that. Instructions aren't in that much detail.
I almost dropped the cvs completely out. Lucky for the Internet.

So you flying up Gus? I am so not motivated to install it.
How long does it usually take?

[atari4x4]

i did the blagon in about 8hrs by myself stopping for heaps of smoko breaks.

i start in the rear & do that first as it's the easy bit.

[suzukiboy]

atari4x4 wrote:

why did you need to remove the calipers?

Same here didn't have to remove calipers or cvs.

[DarkHorse]

Yeah, rear gets you into the swing of it and it's a doddle. Then again, you could go the other way and save the easy bit til last, get the headache out of the way first...

Just do it swifty, hit one side at a time, get up and get the first side done before lunch, second side before dinner, and rear will take you two hours tops in the evening.

Jack up, chassis on stands
Remove wheel
Unclip brakeline from strut and chassis mount (top of spring mount)
Undo swaybar and tie rod from control arm
Jack under control arm, just to support weight (leave 3 balljoint bolts accessible if possible)
Undo bottom strut bolts
Support hub (tie knuckle up to chassis or something, just to stop the weight falling on the brake line or the CV pulling out)
Undo top strut nut
Remove strut
Undo balljoint bolts
Loosen control arm chassis bolts
Lower control arm using jack
Remove spring
Undo control arm chassis bolts
Remove control arm

Rinse and repeat.
Do the diff drop while you've got everything else out of the way - two jacks will make life easier.

Reverse steps with the new blue bits subbed in.

(I realise it's a fair bit easier when you've done it half a dozen or so times...) You've done heaps harder jobs on that thing!

[suzukiboy]

Don't forget to grind down the diff lip. (In the instructions)

[swifty_ano]

This is shit. I haven't even done 1 side. Some one come help.
Lots of beer/money involved

[atari4x4]

fly me up or bring it down here & i'll do it.

it's not that hard, i work on computers & even i managed it. you've thrown you hands up & called it to hard too early

[DarkHorse]

I'll be up in Bris with some time to kill in early December if you can wait that long...

[swifty_ano]

It's not hard but it's too just annoying. The instructions are very vague. My copy didnt mention grinding down the diff.
I've just got some spring compressors so hopefully have the front done this week lol

Thanks Darkhorse and Atari. I'm just too old to work on cars

[DarkHorse]

Get at it Gramps!

I've never heard of grinding the diff... certainly never done it myself...
Spring compressors are evil, and fucking dangerous if something goes wrong. Be careful.

I bought my kit very second hand, with no instructions, so don't know what the supplied ones are like. I did quite a detailed write-up and pic fest when I did mine, so hopefully that helps a bit...?
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=11477&start=390

[atari4x4]

old you're just a pup from memory? P plate in your avatar

try doing it with a fucked knee/thigh bone full of titanium screws/plates & every time you get up or bend it makes wicked grinding noises & fells like you're rubbing 2 rocks together.

steel diff won't need grinding, shouldn't need spring compressors if the front end is high enough off the ground. get the control arms in & let them hang, offer the spring up to the top spring seat & swing the control arm up & get the tail of the spring located in the lower spring seat about 5-10mm from the end of the spring seat. i then use a bottle jack in the round drain hole on the bottom of the control arm & carefully jack the control arm up so the spring seats & holds it in position so you can get the knuckle re attached & the strut bolted back up.

BE FUCKING CAREFUL when jacking the control arm & make sure it's not going to slide off the jack. also don't put you fingers/hands where you wouldn't put you dick.

bloody Gen Y'ers, you give up to easy.

[Chop]

You give up way too easy, i thought you sold this car?

[swifty_ano]

I bought a TJ wrangler and this thing was sitting in my shed waiting for hilux diffs but then i realized jeeps break just as much.

I'll smash it out during the week.

I am soft in my old age

[atari4x4]

swifty_ano wrote:

I bought a TJ wrangler and this thing was sitting in my shed waiting for hilux diffs but then i realized jeeps are gayer than coilys.

fixed for truth.

out of interest, how old are you ant?

[swifty_ano]

20 years old, Gus

[atari4x4]

just a pup

[Charlie Brown]

Lol mate I feel yr pain took my bro and I 5hrs just to get my diff drop brackets in...seriously annoyin just couldn't get em to line up good luck

[atari4x4]

lucky you get paid by the hour & not by the job.

[suzukiboy]

Quote from another install.

Theses two parts need modifying.

"Factory base that mounts to the cross member, new Calmini bushing w/ cut sleeve inside, new Calmini center link bracket that mounts to the differential, factory top bushing and cap. 12- Grind the rib off of the bottom of the differential housing (It will be contacting the cross member after you remove the bracket in step 9)(oops, forgot a picture)."

http://www2.izook.com/?page_id=159

http://www2.izook.com/?page_id=160

[DarkHorse]

NFI - I'm using the later style of mount, so no Calmini bracket.

[atari4x4]

steel diff doesn't require grinding