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az supporter
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Post Posted: Tue Nov 24, 2009 3:46 pm 
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I'd like to install a dual battery system soon but would like a hand in deciding what is best for me as I have no idea when it comes to this stuff. I plan on running a fridge, compressor and 6 100w spotties. A winch may be in the not too distant future too. I've done the 110amp EL alternator upgrade but have not upgraded any wiring.

1. Do I need to upgrade any wiring? If so, which wires and what amperage? (i.e. Alternator-Battery)
2. I've heard Redarc systems are pretty good. Would the 100amp Redarc system suffice?
3. Batteries - any suggesstions on what to get?

Cheers,
Jimmy


Last edited by Red_October on Tue Nov 24, 2009 4:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Tue Nov 24, 2009 4:09 pm 
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i have a dual battery system, i am using a piranah off road isolator about $180. to run my winch the battery had to have a min 660cca, i used the biggest battery i could fit under the bonnet :D Your wiring will depend on how much power is drawn with the fridge and lights etc. i used a set of 200 amp jumper leads from super cheap to do my connections, was way cheaper then buying regular cable.

ill get a few photos for you later of my set up.

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az supporter
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Post Posted: Tue Nov 24, 2009 4:51 pm 
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Cheers Ridge, that would be great :P

I guess my biggest concern is wiring and making sure i've got the right system. It's the amperage that confuses me.

In a dual battery system there are many different amperages. This is my understanding:

EL Alternator - 110amp
Alternator to Starter battery - ???amp
Starter Battery to isolator/solenoid - ???amp
Isolator - 100amp (used as an example based off the Redarc system)
Isolator/solenoid to secondary battery - ???amp
Whatever amperage i'm drawing - ???amps (fridge, compressor, spotties)

Am I correct in presuming that the Isolator/Solenoid amperage is the maximum current that can be drawn from the secondary battery and all wiring running between batteries must be at least the same amperage?

I'm probably thinking way too much about it but I like to understand how things work and give them a crack myself rather than simply installing and not knowing what's happening and why.

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 24, 2009 4:53 pm 
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i did a compleat setup including a quality 58amp battery for under $200
i will try and find the thread for ya, however i do suck at searching. :oops:

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 24, 2009 4:56 pm 
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Batteries have amperages too? 8O Well that just confuses me more! I will now freely admit that I have NO idea about this stuff :lol:

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 24, 2009 5:17 pm 
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your alternator will cope with your lights just fine
your isolator will work fine
dont worry about the winch, it can go on the main battery

now to chose your battery you need to know what will run of it without the engine running and for how long, afterall a battery is jsut a tank so you need to have enough storage in it obviously the more current an item draws the faster it will drain the tank and the longer you want to run an item for the more you will drain the tank

having said that jut get the biggest battery you can fit where you want to put it :)

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Joined: Sun Nov 01, 2009 10:30 pm
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Post Posted: Tue Nov 24, 2009 6:03 pm 
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Nice topic, Im about to put in a new battery and upgrade the battery terminals/cables...

I can see the positive goes to the starter and is an eyelet bolt on, but the negative seems to go to the started as well, but its not visible and but it feels like it goes straight in and no eyelet...

Any own know what the go is with it?

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 24, 2009 6:24 pm 
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this is in my jimmy. I just run a cut out switch on the dash to the solenoid. Deap cycle battery is the biggest expense


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Post Posted: Tue Nov 24, 2009 6:35 pm 
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foonji wrote:
Nice topic, Im about to put in a new battery and upgrade the battery terminals/cables...

I can see the positive goes to the starter and is an eyelet bolt on, but the negative seems to go to the started as well, but its not visible and but it feels like it goes straight in and no eyelet...

Any own know what the go is with it?


it has an eyelet on it and goes under one of the starter motor on

you should also have a decent one from the negative to the firewall as well, some cars didnt have it and it solves a lot of dramas

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Post Posted: Wed Nov 25, 2009 2:11 am 
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royce wrote:
it has an eyelet on it and goes under one of the starter motor on


Ah ok, I see it now, will give it a crack tomorrow.

royce wrote:
you should also have a decent one from the negative to the firewall as well, some cars didnt have it and it solves a lot of dramas


funny you mention that, its one i will be replacing as the previous owners did a bodgy there and its some 240v wiring there atm for it. lol


Thanks

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