[SuziBlu]

Gday, I have just installed a VL engine mount, and now I think I have to reset the float level, it sometimes misses when running hard, not at angles, but up or down, so first up is a look at the float level, reason is the motor sits higher on the passenger side now.

Has anyone done this, does anyone know the level.

Its a 32/36 webber.

[JrZook]

SuziBlu wrote:

Gday, I have just installed a VL engine mount, and now I think I have to reset the float level, it sometimes misses when running hard, not at angles, but up or down, so first up is a look at the float level, reason is the motor sits higher on the passenger side now.

Has anyone done this, does anyone know the level.

Its a 32/36 webber.

Plastic or brass float? This link has info for a plastic float.
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=62976.0

Dan

[SuziBlu]

Thanks for this.

Im not sure yet, only decided to do it after the last fang and havent opened her up. Didnt even know there was either brass or plastic.

[Nik]

There is a difference dont do what I did and set my plastic float to brass specs lol.
I checked my bible and my records (which arnt always accurate lol) show plastic is 35mm and brass is 40mm. I think 5mm drop is the optimum (its been awhile but do the research as these are crucial to optimum performance on and off road.
Try this old link if it works it is ALOT of info and mainly on toyota engines but its very helpful.
http://Forums.offroad.com/engines/20509 ... 8dges.html
Good luck and ask if you need more info.
Nik

[SuziBlu]

hey Nik, I followed the link, but it tells me no such post exists, tried the search but found little, and tried to follow a link in the site, only to be told no thread.

Can you have another go please.

[steve]

weber diagram

[SuziBlu]

hahahaa, they not bad hey.

[steak_knife]

steve wrote:

weber diagram

No wonder thay wont climb hill's with a weber then!

Thay are a simple carb, just pull the top of & have a look, adj your float & sit the top back on, 32/36's don.t need the top screwed on to run, 2 screw's firm will run it, this way if the float is out at idle you can just pull it off quickly.
In all honesty tho, thay are a shit carb for 4by's.

[Nik]

Depends, the cost to rebuild a zuk carb would get you a weber and a rebuild kit all the right jets you need and $$ to spare and with it a lot more power you just have to have an understanding of the workings and the time to set it up right.
Suziblu it was an old link when I found it about 3yrs ago but I may have it saved to the desktop I,l have a look for you.
Try www.zuwharrie.com and search weber anything written by "sarge" is gold.
Nik

[SuziBlu]

steknig wrote:

steve wrote:

weber diagram

No wonder thay wont climb hill's with a weber then!

Thay are a simple carb, just pull the top of & have a look, adj your float & sit the top back on, 32/36's don.t need the top screwed on to run, 2 screw's firm will run it, this way if the float is out at idle you can just pull it off quickly.
In all honesty tho, thay are a shit carb for 4by's.

Every thing I read says adjust the float level, but none goes on to say how ??

Is there screws or do you bend and hope for the best sort of.

[steak_knife]

SuziBlu wrote:

steknig wrote:

steve wrote:

weber diagram

No wonder thay wont climb hill's with a weber then!

Thay are a simple carb, just pull the top of & have a look, adj your float & sit the top back on, 32/36's don.t need the top screwed on to run, 2 screw's firm will run it, this way if the float is out at idle you can just pull it off quickly.
In all honesty tho, thay are a shit carb for 4by's.

Every thing I read says adjust the float level, but none goes on to say how ??

Is there screws or do you bend and hope for the best sort of.

You got it, two way you can go about it, there is a Lil tag that the needle clip's onto, you can give that a tweek( not the visa way ) or you can tweek the tin ware that suport's the float ( visa preferred way )
I do say tweek as the "tin" is not to strong, it's only designed to hold a float, the reason I say leave 2 screws in it & test is because you WILL be pulling it of & doing it again, even if you set it to spec's, it may not be right for your application.
Enjoy

[SuziBlu]

Steve, do I take her for a run tween changes or what.

I looked down the throat yesterday and fuel was in droplets rather than mist, so i am assuming its wanting to flood so I have to lower the beast.

I have read 38.5mm from top, if you are bending getting that fine is gunna be pretty bloody hard isn't it.

Oh well, out to the shed and have a go.

[steak_knife]

That sound's more like a Lil bit of shit in the Idle jet's, Is it dlibbling out of the center ventury? (speel check didn't like that word)

[SuziBlu]

Steve, I have pulled out both jets, cannot identify the ide jet size, but the main is 132.

When looking down the throat, laying over the drivers side guard, the fuel is dribbling in on the side closest to the drivers side, really large droplets as far as I can see, its should be a fine mist hey.

I have looked at the float and can see no way of measuring it.

I have found lots of stuff and printed it out, but when Im looking at the float, it seems different.

This 38.5mm bit, that is about what it is when the float is fully down, and when fully up its about dunno, less than 20mm from the top.

ye gods.

[steak_knife]

None of the above link's work, can you post a link or a top pic of the carb with the top off?
It's hard for me to explain, I may be able to show you on a pic.

[SuziBlu]

Steve, close as I can see, and my old eyes are a bit on the fukd side, is that the float is 37mm from the top.

I read that the idle air fuel screw should be 1.75 to 2.25 turns out to get full revs, mine is 4 turns, then you can turn till it just about falls out before any rev change.

The dribbling should only occur at around 3,500 revs, yet it does this quite low, no tacko so unsure of revs, but if you give it a squirt, it pours in.

Maybe its always been like this, and I am suspecting excessive fuel usage when in fact, its been a while since I have been able to play, broken engine mount, and when I took her out I gave it shit for ages, and lost track of time. 99% of my time is at WOT when playing.

[steak_knife]

Old trick to clean out idle & primary jet's.

Air filter off, car running, bring revv's up to approx 3k & cover the top of the carby with your hand & let it almost die off till you remove your hand, this not only flood's the bejebus out of the carb but suck's most of the shit that build's up in the jet's out.
Back fire can happen during this proses so watch ya eye brow's
Don't use a rag for the same reason, a rag may also get sucked in.

by the sound of it ,it is in your idle side, should be a mist not a dribble.