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Post Posted: Thu Dec 31, 2009 2:37 am 
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ok as it said in the topic

I have a hybrid 1.6 16v block with a 1.3 8v head. I have the vitara fan/clutch with a standard sierra radiator. It has never gone over half on the temp gauge and I have no leaks while running its fine.My problem is as soon as I stop it boils over for about 30 seconds then stops. I have TK tested it and its fine, on the norm it runs great. I normaly just run water with a little coolant to stop rust. The rubber on the cap looks ok I have no way of testing it. Just wondering what yall think. I was going to toss a new cap on it and see how it goes.
It is sitting at 90 / 95* is that norm for a zook?

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 31, 2009 2:58 am 
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UMY zook runs at 85 and will only hit 90 after a hard run then to idle. Posible losing coolant? Pressure could be low causing it to boil easy. Umm what eles umm maybe the cap is no good and is seized or very stiff?

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 31, 2009 3:15 am 
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the 90 - 95* is when I am in the bush working it fairly hard. You have been out with me. Havent you seen what it does?
The cap looks of and the spring looks and feels good.

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 31, 2009 3:18 am 
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v.w.dave wrote:
the 90 - 95* is when I am in the bush working it fairly hard. You have been out with me. Havent you seen what it does?
The cap looks of and the spring looks and feels good.


Replace it. :roll:

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 31, 2009 3:33 am 
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dave surely you have a pressure tester at work.
test the cap blow off pressure.
try running an anti boil at a reasonable mix as you should be any way and give the rad a clean both externally and internal flush.

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 31, 2009 3:33 am 
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Dave, I recon you need a MAC.

Piss off the crap you are using now, like hellooooo, shit crap an get real.

Or, get some redline water weter into your system.

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 31, 2009 4:00 am 
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ajsr wrote:
dave surely you have a pressure tester at work.
test the cap blow off pressure.
try running an anti boil at a reasonable mix as you should be any way and give the rad a clean both externally and internal flush.


I do but they are VGA testers that only test screw on caps Volkswagen only have screw on caps.

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 31, 2009 4:05 am 
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SuziBlu wrote:
Dave, I recon you need a MAC.

Piss off the crap you are using now, like hellooooo, shit crap an get real.

Or, get some redline water weter into your system.


What is a MAC??? The cap looks new. I will toss a new one on before the next trip.

Water weter?? never heard it called that...

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 31, 2009 4:09 am 
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v.w.dave wrote:
SuziBlu wrote:
Dave, I recon you need a MAC.

Piss off the crap you are using now, like hellooooo, shit crap an get real.

Or, get some redline water weter into your system.


What is a MAC??? The cap looks new. I will toss a new one on before the next trip.

Water weter?? never heard it called that...


That's an additive,never used it.

New cap & more coolant :wink:

Do you have a over flow bottle?

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 31, 2009 4:16 am 
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Water wetter stops hydrophobic situations occurring.

lol fair dinkum, that is so easy to understand, even having to use one eye, der.

Get a MAC, then you MAY understand.

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 8:25 am 
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Ok so before my run this weekend I got a new cap and drained out all the water in the system and replaced it with a 50/50 mix of some good coolant. I looked for the MAC stuff and no one had any idea what it was.

Well anyway its still doing it but now its running warmer a little over the half way on the gauge. I am going to toss a thermo stat in it just for shits and giggles next.

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 11:42 pm 
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steknig wrote:

Do you have a over flow bottle?


Well?

a recovery system IS designed to expel coolant at a specified psi, it then suck's it back in.
How much do you need to top it up after this 30sec boil over??

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 11:50 pm 
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are we sure this engine doesnt have an air lock of some sort?
or a blocked water passage from this hybrid engine?
it could be boiling in a section of the block all the time but you arent seeing untill you switch off

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 11:54 pm 
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SuziBlu wrote:
Get a MAC, then you MAY understand.


v.w.dave wrote:
I looked for the MAC stuff and no one had any idea what it was.



bwahahaha

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 12:01 am 
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ajsr wrote:
are we sure this engine doesnt have an air lock of some sort?
or a blocked water passage from this hybrid engine?
it could be boiling in a section of the block all the time but you arent seeing untill you switch off


would of blown the head by now..... :roll: :wink: :wink:

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 12:08 am 
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yeah I suppose
well I dont know then

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 1:55 am 
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Could be the water pump shagged , not circulating the water , have you checked the flow , is your fan in good condition and are you running a shroud , Cheers Paul

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 2:06 am 
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steknig wrote:
steknig wrote:

Do you have a over flow bottle?


Well?

a recovery system IS designed to expel coolant at a specified psi, it then suck's it back in.
How much do you need to top it up after this 30sec boil over??


Yes it has an overflow bottle on it. It is glass and I think originally brewed by Budweiser. :lol:
Apart from the cap looking like it is in good condition, is it the right cap for the engine?
Could also be a blockage in the radiator, causing poor flow. When you pull the cap off and the engine is running at operating temp, does the coolant look like it's flowing ok?
Have you changed the thermostat yet??

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 5:52 pm 
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Yes it has a overflow bottle :) and yes it is a budweiser bottle hahaha once again something the old owner did. The cap as I said was brand new. The water pump was replaced when I put the motor in 4 months ago. yeas you can see movement in the water. It has a vitara clutch fan that is wrking and yes it has a shroud.
I have not changed the t-stat yet as I have not had any time to. Fuck I hate being a manager some times with having the last 2 weeks off work I am making up for it now.
With it starting to run a litle hotter I have a feeling the stat is stuck open.

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 7:15 pm 
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Hi Dave, due to the fact it only boils over at shut off would mean to me that it is running way to hot (close to boiling) and as soon as you shut down circulation stops and the heat in the engine pushes it over the boiling point.
Which means there is one or two thing it could be. Ignition Timing out. or general condition of cooling system ie radiator not doing the job. The gauge may be out as well.
Hope I haven't stated the obvious.
My favourite car (next to a suzuki ) was a 1977 2Lt fuel injected vw kombi double cab. Loved that car.

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 9:12 pm 
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when mine was boiling over at shutdown it was the head, exhuast side i think. so there was no signs of milky oil etc... car would still run then got worse and worse over time until it was totally fucked.

aaron

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 9:48 pm 
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Nahh runs great. as I said it running a little hot but not all the time... My temp gauge may be messing up as well...

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 6:30 am 
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It was the thermo stat. It was stuck wide open. After replacing it I did check the timeing and did a minor tweek it was about 2* out. Now it runs like a dream....... It was running right on the border of over heating and as soon as it stoped it just boiled over. But its all good now.

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 12:50 pm 
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Dave, I do not understand. How can an open thermostat cause overheating problems, I would have thought an open thermostat would have caused a slow warm up, not overheating.

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 1:33 pm 
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there are two types of thermostat. The single stage thermostat, and the two stage thermostat. If you were to pull the thermostat out of a single stage thermostat engine out, you could still run the engine with out fear of it overheating, but if you remove the thermostat from a dual stage thermostat engine out, it will overheat. This is because water is drected to differant parts of the cooling system depending on which stage the thermostat is at. I thought the Suzuki's had a single stage thermostat in them, but going by Daves description, the Vitara motors must have a two stage.

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 2:11 pm 
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no its single stage, same as a sierra

I was going to listen to see if mine dumped into teh overflow when turned off but I CBF standing around outside, I would think it does though like most engines

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 2:17 pm 
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It never once over heated while driving or while idling it was running warmer about 2 mm off the hot mark on the dash. but as soon as I shut the engine down it would boil over. As soon as I started it back up it would stop boiling over. As I said the ignition timing was out but only by a cunt hair. I do now notice the difference in how its driving. With it running cooler I have much better top end. I actualy got it up to 110ks on the way home. I think the free flow the coolant had was not alowing it to stay in the radiator long enough to cool it. causing it to run hot. Then as soon as the pump wasn't spinning the water would simply boil over.

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 3:37 pm 
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Glad you got it sorted :) Some engines run way to hot without a thermostat.
ie. the coolant runs too fast through the rad. and doesn't cool down enough.
I guess a thermostat jammed wide open would be much the same.
:cheers:

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 6:18 pm 
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wat ever is going on u have major problems

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 6:29 pm 
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money_killer wrote:
wat ever is going on u have major problems
??? Huh?? Not really I don't consider a $10 t-stat a major problem?

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