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Post Posted: Sat Jan 16, 2010 6:16 pm 
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thanks Matty87,

that has cleared a few things up so thanks.
i live in Padbury which NOR, why??

I got told by Natrad in joondalup that it would be around $100 if i take in my radiator and they rode and flush it, is that good?.

Do anyone know if Adrad Radiator experts in balcatta are any good? as i have been told they to see them.

thanks
Mitch

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Post Posted: Sat Jan 16, 2010 7:53 pm 
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ok

yeah im in rossmoyne during the uni year south of the great divide hahaha.

natrad should be good, they are a big company and as such generaly have good customer support etc. 100 bucks sounds fair

dont know bout the other place

i would suggest taking the radiator out of the car and not letting them do it they will prolly charge extra for that if your keeping cost down.

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Matt

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Post Posted: Sat Jan 16, 2010 8:00 pm 
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Check out the price of a new radiator, ally ones for vitaras are not dear, and considering $100 for a flush, that has no guarantee of doing any good, a new one is the go.

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Post Posted: Sat Jan 16, 2010 9:35 pm 
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fill it up and let it idle for a while when its up to temp and look for bubbles coming up from the radiator

if youve blown the head gasket it can pressurise the cooling system and blow coolant out which then makes it over heat cause its empty

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 6:31 am 
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thanks guys,

Taking my radiator into a shop tomorrow morning, i have read the manual and the removal doesn't seem that hard but i just wondering if anybody had any tips or tricks to make the job go faster and smoother??

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mitch

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 1:59 am 
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$100 for a flush, no promise of a fix, or this.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/RADIATOR-SUZUKI- ... 2110wt_941

hmmmm, a tad dearer, very cheap by comparison.

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 2:48 am 
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i think its like 6, 10mm bolts, leave the shroud in and yank that sucka out its dead easy

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 7:53 pm 
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hey guys,
got my radiator back this morning, the guy said it was 80% blocked and was in pretty good condition. it cost $90 + 10% for gst so $100.

i fitted it all pretty easily, it only had 2 10mm bolts that hold it in at the top which go to two vertical rails, and at the bottom it has two round things which sit in holes on a lower bracket.
i just undid the shroud 4 10mm bolts then just pushed it back onto the engine so i could get the radiator out. if i removed the shroud completely i would of had to removed the fan.

i just drove to the shops about 10 mins drive at 80ks, it starts to rise slowly and then will sit about 3 or so mm above the C on the gauge. if i stop at lights ect it will rise and then when i start it will go back down. is it doing this because the lower hose is being sucked in? as it isnt the 100% correct hose. (it isnt creased or crimpled) or is something else wrong?

thanks Mitch

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 8:03 pm 
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When you are stopped at lights there is very little airflow throguh the radiator (low revs plus no movement). As soon as you drive of, the fan is spinning faster and the air is being driven through the radiator by you driving, cooling it back off again...

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 8:07 pm 
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yeah ok, so now iv got to much cooling happening with a stock setup. i didnt think that was possible.

the needle is only just registering that it is warming up, like i said it is only just above the C on the gauge.

thanks (sorry if that sounded sarcastic)

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 8:17 pm 
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Thats fine... The temperature doesn't need to sit dead centre.... Mine sits just above C all day everyday, thats all you need....

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 8:20 pm 
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Oh, and if it really isn't heating up to where it should be, then look at changing the thermostat... if it opens at too low a temperature, is jammed open or just isn't there, it'll never get up to temp....

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 8:21 pm 
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ok thanks,

but before i had this prob it would sit half way all day.

i forgot to mention that when i got home i popped the bonnet and looked at the over flow bottle and the coolant was at the top of the bottle. (not at the full measurement) does this mean anything??

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 9:20 pm 
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Before you had this problem you probably still had a 50% or more blocked radiator... So it wouldn't have been cooling at full capacity...

The water just means it was overfilled, don't worry about it too much, but take a little bit out....

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 1:45 am 
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thanks Ben_sierra

yeah i was thinking that, but i still dont know why it is staying so low(cold) on the gauge. i found $100 in my room so i can now go get a new thermostat and maybe the correct lower hose.

yeah i removed a little bit of coolant from the bottle so the level was just below full. ill go for a drive tomorrow and see how it goes.

ill keep you posted.
thanks
Mitch

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 1:04 am 
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hey all,
well today i thought i would replace or check the condition of the current thermostat, all was going good until i took the housing off and to my shock i found NO thermostate.

But yeah now it runs great :D heated up to a good running temp after about 5 mins of driving with the new 82c thermostat.

btw is this the correct thermostat to use? 82c or 90c
thanks again

Mitch

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 1:06 am 
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Pretty sure it 82c :wink:

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 2:58 am 
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its 92 but she'll be right

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 3:04 am 
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Bugger wrong again :roll:

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 7:02 pm 
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well on the back of the thermostat it was 82c and the other option was a 90 or 92(didnt look at this 1)

is it ok running on the 82c? is there any advantage of it running on a 92c thermostat??

thanks guys

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 8:09 pm 
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heater will work better with a 92 but otherwise I doubt you would ever notice

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 9:14 pm 
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ok cool, considering its summer i doubt i will be using the heater, so that fine.

what about doing really slow, hard working wheeling? will it make a difference having a 82 or 92 in keeping it cool?

thanks

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 9:17 pm 
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if your rad was not able to keep up you would run the cooler one, I have a 92 in mine and never had a problem, vits have a pretty efficient cooling system when its working

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 4:29 am 
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hey all,

my car has been running great for the past few months, bar a split hose. i now have a prob similar to what i had b4, where my car wont heat up more than just above the C on the temp gauge. it was doing this earlier when it wasnt running a thermostat.

so now im think is my thermostat stuck open? can i fix this without buying a new 1 as this is only a few months old.

when it does rise above the C it varies between normal and C area, would this be because of the thermostat?

cheers
Mitch

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 4:35 am 
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sure the radiator is full :)

you can pull the thermostat out and see if its stuck open and boil it in some water to see if it opens properly

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 4:37 am 
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royce wrote:
sure the radiator is full :)

you can pull the thermostat out and see if its stuck open and boil it in some water to see if it opens properly


yeah i have been checking if the level is full, and yes.

yeah i will do that when i get a chance. does it sound like its the thermostat tho??

thanks royce.

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 4:47 am 
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I would be worried the gauge going up and down is something a bit more nasty, or the temp sender terminal is loose :)

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 5:01 am 
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royce wrote:
I would be worried the gauge going up and down is something a bit more nasty, or the temp sender terminal is loose :)


what could be nasty?? is the temp sender terminal in the dash cluster or on the thermostat housing??

and when i say up and down, is not like it bouncing but more just slowly rising or falling depending on if im idling or crusing etc. (havnt put a pattern to it yet)

Mitch

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 6:07 am 
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I would not worry about the crap standard lever gauge, the one supplied with the car, its got no numbers, its seriously crap.

Get a master gauge, hook that up, and you will see what its running at in degrees, not some stupid lever that sez, er, nothing.

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 11:07 pm 
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SuziBlu wrote:
I would not worry about the crap standard lever gauge, the one supplied with the car, its got no numbers, its seriously crap.

Get a master gauge, hook that up, and you will see what its running at in degrees, not some stupid lever that sez, er, nothing.


yeah i would like to, but i dont really want to put extra gauges around the dash. but ill see if i can find a small digital gauge that i can put near the steering column or something. cheers.

if i dont do this, can some help with my previous questions? adding to this, i drove home last night, it took a while to warm up but it actually got to full running temp. just thought i would throw that in to confuse ur all some more.

cheers.

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