[31zook]

Im new to this, and have put allot of money into my engine, so im going to swollow my pride and ask why it won't start.

So it turns over freely, there is fuel pumping through, i lined my timing belt up right, all the leads are on right, but the dizzy has confused me. I can't find any info on timing the dizzy right. Here is what happens. The motor turns over then all of the sudden it seizes, then i twist the key again, and it repeats. I took the plug out of No:1 and the plug is black(brand new), and when i crank the motor it puff's out black smoke...

no idea what is going on, can you please help..

cheers

[mightymouse]

It sounds to me to be 180 degrees arse about, It is not difficult to do I have been playing with engines longer than a lot of you have been alive and I still get it wrong.

[Ben_Sierra]

Yo umay have the ignition timing out by 180 degrees (so the spark is at TDC, but not on the compression stroke).

When the engine is at TDC on the compression stroke (or 8 degrees BTDC to be more precise, the dizzy rotor whould be pointing at the lead for number one cylinder. If its pointing the other way, you have the spark on the exhaust stroke, which would explain the problems you are having.

[gypsy]

yep 180 out

[Scrawny]

Just pull the dizzy, spin the rotor 180 degrees and slam it back in.

And yes, it quite often confuses me too

[Brett]

to do it right you need the # piston at tdc, your cam on #1 at combustion (inlet just closed and exhaust just about to open) mak sure your marks line up, some times they don't.

then slip your dizzy in so the rota button is pointing at a plug lead on the cap. that is now number 1 set the rest of the leads from that.

have a timing light when your trying to start it and check to see if you have spark.

[SuziBlu]

IF its the dizzy, why pull it, why not just change the leads.

[Ben_Sierra]

SuziBlu wrote:

IF its the dizzy, why pull it, why not just change the leads.

That would work, but since the dizzy cap has numbers on the leads which correspond to cylinder numbers, everything would be all ass about and a pain to troubleshoot and work on in future....

[royce]

if its 180 out it will fire somewhere around the top of the exhaust stroke and across the inlet overlap and spit all kinds of good stuff out the carby, not stop the piston dead halfway up the inlet stroke, didnt any of you mechanics pay attention in day one of TAFE

like Brett said go back and get it on real no1 TDC and make sure the dizzy is pointing at the no1 lead, then turn the engine back so the timing mark lines up with the 10degree mark on the bottom pulley and turn the dizzy a bit either way with the ignition on till it sparks and lock it off there

I reckon you have about 40 degrees too much timing in it, you could jsut start turning the dizzy while cranking it over till ot goes too

[DMAC]

Exhaust lobe in this position with piston 1 TDC



Dizzy sits in this position.



Timing mark here. Line up the line under the "t" with the indent.

[Scrawny]

royce wrote:

didnt any of you mechanics pay attention in day one of TAFE

We're not mechanics, we're 'fitters'.

[Ben_Sierra]

ScrawnC wrote:

royce wrote:

didnt any of you mechanics pay attention in day one of TAFE

We're not mechanics, we're 'fitters'.

I'm a communications engineer.... Enough said

[31zook]

hey guys, thanks for all the quick replys

The dizzy was right, but the lead from the coil to the rotor was broken, and i had my block shaved (im not sure how many tho was taken off but it was done) high compression pistons, and a decked head, so now my battery will only turn it over 4 times before not having enough juice. And i wasted those on not turning the kill switch off. But when i hooked it up to another battery and got a new lead it reved into life

G13A
born, 2:28PM, 20th of january,
2010
child of josh

it sounded really tough with only 3 finger tight exhaust bolts in it But i then realised there was an oil leak in my bottom end, so it ran for about 3 seconds....



im sure i cleaned the mating surfaces, and didn't damage the gasket, but ill pull it off and check anyway....



cheers

[Red_October]

Is your radiator hose held on with cable ties? Awesome

[31zook]

haha yeah it is, but it's only temp.... so does anyone know why it would leak there? to higher compression?

[SuziBlu]

Get a decent set of headers so as to make use of your extra power from increased compression and a 2" exhaust.

[DMAC]

31zook wrote:

hey guys, thanks for all the quick replys

The dizzy was right,............................

G13A
born, 2:28PM, 20th of january,
2010
child of josh

Thought it would be.

Congatulations Josh. Do we have a name yet?

Try nipping up the gasket a little and see if that stops your leak.

Then give it a good clean to see exactly where is coming from. Bummer of a spot though.

[v.w.dave]

31zook wrote:

G13A
born, 2:28PM, 20th of january,
2010
child of josh

HAHAHAH

Very nice but how is it that you have a child when your waiting for marrage??? Smoke and mirrors??? hahahaha

Good to see you got it running. Even with the oil leak you should have let it run for a bit longer. Let it clear the cob webs out. That way you could have seen if there were any other leaks...

[eldo]

good work josh, congrats on your first engine rebuild, lets hope its your last... once you get some clamps and its running try putting on a coolant pressure pump to ensure there are no nasty leaks anywhere that will kill your new donk.....

[31zook]

fixed the leak found my free rad has a hole in it somewhere, just need to find out where, the carby is stuffed (had forgotten) there is a tapping noise from under the rocker cover, figure the tappets need hot adjusting, the exhaust need some more bolts, need new leads, and there was a short in my dizzy as i had it running which nearly blew my hand off

But the biggest problem is i need 2 batteries to start it. spewing, will need to look into a dual battery set up or just one tough battery.

cheers luke, and DMAC. dave your a funny man, and suziblu i think it has a 2" all the way through with standard headers on it....

[royce]

its gunna be a bit tight till it frees up, but a new well tuned engine will start first piston up anyway so it shouldnt be a problem

[31zook]

ok i hope so....

[xedent]

How much was your rebuild all up mate.

[31zook]

haha I went all out on this motor, so it's about $1250 for parts and $1059 worth of machining... so about $2300 all up.... if you don't believe me come and look at my reciepts

If you want to know exactly how much certain stuff cost then i can find reciepts and tell you...

[89_tintop]

damn mate... just read how much it cost to rebuild your engine...

damn thats some money spent.

[JrZook]

Got a bit of coin put into the ole 1.3! Should be a sweet firebreather when shes running all good. Id suggest tho to do yourself a favor and spend a bit more coin on the other bits and pieces supporting the engine you put all that money into ie the carby, dizzy, cooling system. If I spent that much I would want to make sure that nothing dodgy is hanging off it that could potentially fail.

Dan

[31zook]

yeah for sure mate, i will be trying to go through it all tomorrow and clean up all the wiring, and hoses. The Vit rad i have found to be losing bugger all so it will do till i can afford a new one