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Post Posted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 3:43 am 
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Can anyone recommend a good place in or near Ipswich that supplies car paint/primer at good prices?

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Post Posted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 4:20 am 
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Depending on what colour you want supercheap has a range of basic colours in 1 litre tins of acrilic and also fast dry enamel. I think they have red, yelow, green, blue, white and black base colours. Unless you are wanting to match the original colour I would just stick to a base colour which will make it easy to repair and touch up.

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Post Posted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 5:47 pm 
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going to stick with the original colour which is a dark blue

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 3:08 pm 
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Going to do some priming today... what do people think is the best ratio to mix the primer + thinners?

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 3:27 pm 
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foonji wrote:
Going to do some priming today... what do people think is the best ratio to mix the primer + thinners?


trial and error. what sort of paint is it? acrylic's can be any thing from 2:1 to 4:1 thinner to paint.

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 3:40 pm 
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acrylic surface primer and acrylic thinners

says on the tin 1:1

I was thinking around the 2:1

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 4:20 pm 
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Fill all chips and dents with knifing putty or i use a product called metal plastic, if you use bog you have to go back to bare metal.
Rub it all back with 300 grit then 600 then mask mask mask
Then give it 2-3 coats primer. I leave it in the sun for half a day but best to leave it for 24hrs outside in the sun. Then rub it with 600 grit followed by a once over with 800-1200 grit if you want a good job.
Then paint away, aim for at least 3 coats more if its metallic, some paints are a clear over base which means you need a clear coat as well.
If you ask for a 2 pak direct gloss then it will be shiny of the gun
NOTE: do not go in the mud unless the paint has fully cured (this can take weeks) otherwise it can mark and stuff your new p/job.
Here is a few ive done.
Image
Image
Image
Image

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 23, 2009 4:10 pm 
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Nice paint MrRocky

Anyone got any recommendations on a decent spray gun??? what is better grav or suction?

I'm about to smash this $70 Super Crap Auto one if I don't get it back to the store quick enough...

splutters paint out and takes about 10 passes to barely get a complete coat on one spot... no amount of cleaning and disassembly fixes it.. this one is a gravity feed 1.4mm...and I've tried different paint/thinner ratios as well.

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 23, 2009 4:18 pm 
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Hey Mr Rocky, looks like you know what your doing, and in Perth too... I might have to get you to paint my zook for me, or at least give me some pointers when I get round to it ;)

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 24, 2009 12:32 am 
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foonji wrote:
Nice paint MrRocky

Anyone got any recommendations on a decent spray gun??? what is better grav or suction?


Grav is better then suction mate

if you want a good good try SATA JET or devilbiss there the guns i used at the panel shop when i was spray painting

cant go wronf with them mat, looking at $300 - $400 mark tho

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 24, 2009 1:31 am 
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:wink: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic154 ... highlight=
hope this helps, or pm me

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 24, 2009 1:35 am 
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gravity guns are not designed to paint acrylic you should be using a suction gun if if you insist on a graviy gun a large fluid tip ie 1.8mm.
two pack is a different story you SHOULD be using a gravity gun for that 1.3- 1.5mm tip.
ps sata jets are now about $800 - 900
and trust me you wont need a gun that good for what you are doing.

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 24, 2009 2:09 am 
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Thanks ajsr

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 5:47 pm 
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Picked up the colour paint and gloss today, but need some help decoding what they mean with the ration..

says on the tin, 1 part paint to 11/2 thinner... I have no idea what they mean by 11/2 .. any ideas? I don't really want to experiment to find out.. too much $$ to waste..

THanks

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 5:54 pm 
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You mean one to one and a half or one to 11 on 2?

Cos there is a big difference between the two...

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 6:18 pm 
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Ok, Stupid me, after you said that I just re-read it, and just noticed that it is a 1 (space) 1/2

thought it was 11/2 and it had me baffled.

thanks :)

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 8:00 pm 
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Hey i dont mind spraying them for people as long as you are prapared to do most of the prep work, but only 2 pack and direct gloss (no clear needed).
The best thing for mixing the correct ratio's is the clear plastic mixing cup you get from decent auto paint stores, they come with all the percentages on the side to make it easy. Mind you depending on the weather if you are painting outside some of the mixtures may need a slight adjustment.
Ive found warm, windless days with thunderstorms the best as theres no crap in the air to get in the paint because of the rain.
note that spraying 2pak outside is illegal and comes with a monster fine if you get caught.

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 8:51 pm 
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I've already gone down the acrylic path, one last bit to prime and on to colour... wasn't going to attempt 2pak at home.. I'll leave that to the pros.

I've been doing it in the backyard and haven't had much of a problem with shit flying around.

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 9:47 pm 
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Just sprayed the first lot of colour (Suzuki Deep Blue Pearl), just did one flare to test and see that the mix was ok.

Came out ok, not perfect but will do. Has a bit of a texture to it. even though was fairly smooth before spraying did a very light 800 wet sand.


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Post Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 11:25 pm 
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acrylic paints generally have to be cut back and buffed to get rid of the orange peel you are seeing. With 2 pack and direct gloss types it is possibe to get a really good finish of the gun. In saying that nearly all the top show cars are acrylic cause they can be cut, buffed and sprayed again heaps until the desired result is acheived.
Might i sugest when you have finished to cut it all back with 800 then 1600 then clear it if you do not intend on cuttin and buffing it.

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 12:18 am 
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Mr Rocky, Thanks, Well at least I know that the orange peel is normal and its not me doing something wrong.

I'll be putting clear over the top. Just want to get it straight in my mind the best way to go.

Once I paint the colour I sand back with 1600, then clear it, sand again with 1600? then cut/buff?

Is that right?

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 12:24 am 
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foonji wrote:
Mr Rocky, Thanks, Well at least I know that the orange peel is normal and its not me doing something wrong.

I'll be putting clear over the top. Just want to get it straight in my mind the best way to go.

Once I paint the colour I sand back with 1600, then clear it, sand again with 1600? then cut/buff?

Is that right?


you can't rub back a base coat and then clear it. It will wreck the metallic/ pearl finish.
you must rub it back apply more base (even two light coats)then clear.
and the best thing to cut back acrylic before buffing) is 1000 grit and a soapy mix of dishwashing liquid (it will stop the paper clogging)

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 12:40 am 
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umm ok... so I'm going to have to coat it again... I initially did 3 coats... should i just do the one then rub, then coat again?

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 3:43 am 
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shit no, paint it with the base colour 3-4 coats depending on coverage, then whack a 3-4 coats of clear on leaving 10 mins between coats. You can then cut the clear coat back and clear it again twice if needed, but it will prob want a good bake in the sun first.
sorry if my last post was unclear, iam by no means a proffesional sprayer ive just done a fair few of my own and other mates now and have a reasonable idea from what ive learnt from mates who do it for a living.

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 3:56 am 
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ok thanks. i like the texture to it actually. haha. onward spraying! :D

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 4:05 am 
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MrRocky wrote:
Ive found warm, windless days with thunderstorms the best as theres no crap in the air to get in the paint because of the rain.
note that spraying 2pak outside is illegal and comes with a monster fine if you get caught.


So you prefer to paint while its raining outside? One thing i've found is you have to watch the dew point temperature which is directly related to the humidity. The higher the humidity the closer the dew point temperature is to the actual outside air temp. When paint goes onto your pannel the thinners cools it due to evaporation. Once the pannel temp goes below dew point the paint will go milky and blush, this is moisture trapped in the paint. Not good! Will cause humidity blisters and teh paint wont last too long.

A descent weather forecaster site i use is www.weather.com.au tells you current conditions for quite a few areas. Your looking for low humidity days ie under 70% with a large difference between current and dew point temperatures.

Dan

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 10:55 pm 
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yeah definately, the difference with the amount of debri in the air is huge, i have never had a prob with blisters doing this, but it does give good end result of the gun with direct gloss.

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Post Posted: Sat Jan 23, 2010 4:18 am 
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this is worth a watch
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l_kNSBYd ... re=related

4WD Action - DIY Suzuki Sierra Paintjob

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 24, 2010 11:38 pm 
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Quick question... Will Clear Lacquer dry spots buff out? or do I need to re-coat?

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 25, 2010 12:42 am 
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when the clear comes out rough like a cats tounge to touch (this will appear dry) generally it means you need a bit more thinners in the mix or you are holding the gun too far away or have it incorrectly adjusted. But its a fine line as if you hold it too close or mix it too pissy then you will get runs, just mix it with a bit more thinners and make sure you overlap and spray evenly, then waith 5-10mins and reapply x 2 more times. If you are using a really poor gun nothing will make it come out right and it will clog heaps, if this happens put your finger over the nozzle and squeeze the trigger then release trigger repeat as required.

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