[atari4x4]

FAR OUT 32psi that seems a bit high for a lightweight suzuki.

[Gadzooks]

atari4x4 wrote:

FAR OUT 32psi that seems a bit high for a lightweight suzuki.

that's what the local tyre dealer suggested - but I think that's what he tells everyone with 4X4 tyres, regardless of what the car is...

Owners manual says 1.40 kg/cmSq front and back unladen which is 20 psi (I think), which means I have way too much air in those tyres even if they are bigger than original.

[Ben_Sierra]

By my reckoning, a bigger tyre will need less pressure than a smaller one, as the contact area is larger, a smaller pressure is required to exert the same force (or support the same weight)....

That said factory pressure settings are often a little on the low side, a few more PSI will reduce resistance, increase economy, performance and reduce tyre wear.... But not too much though

[BlueSuzy]

Lowering the pressure will sure give it a better ride!

20psi all round is stock.

No matter what tyre size. Same air pressure.

[shantillylais]

gadzooks, seems we have similar roads and tyre advice. Tyre pressure is an interesting topic. beaurepairs fitted my MT 215/75/15 tyres, and when i checked them they had 32 in them. the tyre sticker on the car door pillar says 24 front, 26 rear. So I reduced them, and yes its a softer ride. After being in the sandhills on Sunday, where I had reduced pressure to 20, I drove home on mostly dirt road, but as soon as I got on bitumen, the steering was noticeably heavy. (no power steering on my traytop). In my Patrol, dropping tyre pressure on bitumen below 35 say to 30, noticeably affects economy, but the ride is very comfortable. I like economy in the Patrol, so use 40, and tyre life is great.
regarding the noise issue, I am changing my gearbox and transfer case oil to one grade higher, and adding an oil product that is supposed to reduce noise and extend life. We will see how it goes. Used it in the Patrol 36,000km ago after being told I needed a rebuild at over $5000. Its still going great, and no noises.

[royce]

MrRocky wrote:

no wonder so many 1ltr's blow up with you lot driving them.
if you put a tacho on the car i think you will find about 5000rpm is about as much as you want to rev them to when changing gears and at 90km/phr in 4th the 1ltr will be reving at about 4800rpm.
if you plan on keeping it alive for an extended period i suggest limiting top speed to about 90. The 1ltr isnt as robust as the 1.3 and doesnt rev as freely, but some people will tell you i had one she sat on 120 all day and revved to 8 grand doing donuts in the dry - they are lying, most of these ppl have never had a tacho on a 1ltr or had to live with driving one for an extended period of time.

bullshit the F series is a better built engine than the G series
the reason they sound nasty is the fan noise, mine could sit on 120 with 31's and lift all day long

[Gadzooks]

shantillylais wrote:

I am changing my gearbox and transfer case oil to one grade higher, and adding an oil product that is supposed to reduce noise and extend life. We will see how it goes. Used it in the Patrol 36,000km ago after being told I needed a rebuild at over $5000. Its still going great, and no noises.

When he did the check-over and service the mechanic said the noise is so loud because unlike most cars there is absolutely no sound insulation in my car and therefore every noise which you wouldnt normally hear in most cars, is audible in mine - in fact the previous owner took out the carpet which was there (I think).
So last night I installed several layers of that carpet underlay/speaker box insulation stuff that I had leftover in the shed and hey presto my car now goes faster! (brain says its ok to give it more welly as it's not screaming any more - I can still hear the rattle in the background somewhat but unless whatever is causing it gives out, I'm not going to worry about it) so with 28psi (tried 23 and the tyres were seriously bagged) and I just now cruised along at a whopping 90kph.....whoopee, my Stockman has been pimped with carpet underlay.
So if yours is having the same prob- just bung in some insulation!

[Highway-Star]

OK sort of relating to this thread, whats the go with useing that lead replacement fuel addative in the F10a motors? for the valve lubrication and so forth. Have people found a certain fuel to addative ratio that best suits them?

[Ben_Sierra]

Where can I get some of this go-faster Carpet??? I wouldn't mind squeezing a few more KW from my WT!

[royce]

Highway-Star wrote:

OK sort of relating to this thread, whats the go with useing that lead replacement fuel addative in the F10a motors? for the valve lubrication and so forth. Have people found a certain fuel to addative ratio that best suits them?

just run premium unleaded, they didnt have leaded fuel in japan when 1 litres were made

[Highway-Star]

royce wrote:

Highway-Star wrote:

OK sort of relating to this thread, whats the go with useing that lead replacement fuel addative in the F10a motors? for the valve lubrication and so forth. Have people found a certain fuel to addative ratio that best suits them?

just run premium unleaded, they didnt have leaded fuel in japan when 1 litres were made

Oh righto. sweet!
My LJ80 came with lots of that additive stuff for its dead F8, so I just presumed the F10 would also require it.
cheers

[MrRocky]

ahhh swb base, the lwb diff ratio's are 4.1 perhaps that is where the difference lies.

[mrw82]

1 litre SWB and LWB both have the same diff ratio of 4.1:1

mine is a LWB and as I said before I have no problem doing 100km/h

[Gadzooks]

mrw82 wrote:

1 litre SWB and LWB both have the same diff ratio of 4.1:1

mine is a LWB and as I said before I have no problem doing 100km/h

a few questions if I may?
Did/do you have any roadholding issues at 100kph and if you did, how did you remedy it. do you use high octane to achieve this? 4 speed or 5 speed box?
thanks.

[shantillylais]

good question gadzooks, someone said in this topic they are great when set up correctly............... so what is correctly????????????

We mere mortal new owners who live in rural communities ask whoever we have access to, and that often leads to these sites too, so hopefully we get honest answers not dreamtime answers, or flaming of others responses. I ask real time people/owners who give me different answers, but most are older(like me) and not into expensive modifications or outrite speed.
IF you can go fast (100km/hr) AND safely, what have YOU done to YOUR LWB so we can hopefully travel safely too???
I do know that these wonderful vehicles are an aquired taste and their idiocincracies are very basic compared to their late model/refined cousins with different suspension and sound insulation.

[mrw82]

guys the answers to your questions are in my previous posts.
roadholding abilitys: yep, get onto a hill and you'll find yourself shifting back a gear pretty soon. usually 3rd gear has enough grunt to hold speed on most hills (even loaded up with camping gear) which has me sitting at about 70km/h.

you've got to remember its just a little 1 litre!!!! it's not a V8 so don't expect V8 like performance from it. mine goes well for what I expect from it.
it is a 4 speed but I have just picked up a 5 speed to fit to it. sometimes I run ULP95 (if the only 91 avail is E10 crap) but usually I just run ULP91.

I was serious when I said I tuned it by feel, when it revs out freely it's running sweet. sure it might use more fuel than it should but if its running reliably I don't care too much about economy.

[Gadzooks]

mrw82 wrote:

guys the answers to your questions are in my previous posts.
roadholding abilitys: yep, get onto a hill and you'll find yourself shifting back a gear pretty soon. usually 3rd gear has enough grunt to hold speed on most hills (even loaded up with camping gear) which has me sitting at about 70km/h.

you've got to remember its just a little 1 litre!!!! it's not a V8 so don't expect V8 like performance from it. mine goes well for what I expect from it.
it is a 4 speed but I have just picked up a 5 speed to fit to it. sometimes I run ULP95 (if the only 91 avail is E10 crap) but usually I just run ULP91.

I was serious when I said I tuned it by feel, when it revs out freely it's running sweet. sure it might use more fuel than it should but if its running reliably I don't care too much about economy.

Thanks for your reply. when I asked about roadholding, the issue is really about wandering and bouncing? rather than gear changes for inclines.

I know its just a one litre and I have never expected it to perform like a V8 (my original post asked for a way to achieve 90kph downhill - hardly the overblown expectations of a V8 speed junkie) and I have to say you are one of a few people who have said they have no problems driving it at 100kph, something which has come as a surprise to me as I had not expected or hoped, it could be done - at least not safely.

[MacDaddy]

Gadzooks wrote:

mrw82 wrote:

1 litre SWB and LWB both have the same diff ratio of 4.1:1

mine is a LWB and as I said before I have no problem doing 100km/h

a few questions if I may?
Did/do you have any roadholding issues at 100kph and if you did, how did you remedy it. do you use high octane to achieve this? 4 speed or 5 speed box?
thanks.

Ok, sure
Mine was mechanically stock, and i had no road holding issues at all going at 100+kph, there was no drift, wandering, bounce, wobbles, of any kind, ir just sat smoothly on the road !

[MacDaddy]

And here are a couple of pics just to prove i had a 1L SWB Sierra !
They are not real good pic's, they are photo's of photo's, i will get them scanned later and add them to my album/gallery on here !

[Gadzooks]

MacBear wrote:

t to prove i had a 1L SWB Sierra !

thanks. there seems to be a difference in performance between the 1L swb and lwb - perhaps the extra weight, length etc which seems to effect both roadholding and speed on the lwb.

[IN2DEP]

Well if yous are getting alteast 70ks in your 1L be happy lol, i can only do 80ks in my 1.3L with a snorkel fitted full the cold air intake, still very slow and the engine runs fine lol Suzukis

you want power get a 1.6 OR a 1.3 Twin cam

[Ben_Sierra]

If you can only do 80 in your 1.3 then something is not right... I hit 120 on the freeway fairly regularly without too much hassle....

[shantillylais]

ROFLMAO.......... that must have been at 2am on a weekday............. Kwinana and Mitchel parkways you'd be lucky to get to 50km any other times

[Ben_Sierra]

Eh, the freeways aren't that bad... only in peak hour...

[MacDaddy]

Ben_Sierra wrote:

If you can only do 80 in your 1.3 then something is not right... I hit 120 on the freeway fairly regularly without too much
hassle....

X 2
Something is not right at all !
Yes i am guilty of doing 120kph on the Freeway too, he he...

The New Tonkin H'way extension after Albany H'way, going towards Armadale Rd, and ends at Thomas Rd, is great, i often go that way back to Mandurah, no one does the 100kph limit, most do 110kph, and some sit on 120kph or higher, lovely long stretch off road, with few traffic lights, and very few places to hide a Multinova, he he
Oh i am a bad boy

[mrw82]

on road handling is fine. just like macbears I get no wobbles, bouncing vibrations, wandering........ nothing, handles comfortably.

If you have extended shackles, get rid of them
I run standard shackles, NO bodylift, 2 spring lift (even with a full 6 leaf pack in the rear it is comfortable on road (for a suzuki)). 30" mud tyres. and S1 gears. (S1's give a lower low range but high range remains stock in a 1 litre)

[Gadzooks]

I overtook a Daihatsu Charade today - the first overtake in months - it was only doing about 40 though....... but still felt great.


oh, and a bicycle.

[2stroker]

[quote="shantillylais"]good question gadzooks, someone said in this topic they are great when set up correctly............... so what is correctly????????????

Ok sorry champ, if you want the car to handle well on the dirt at speed forget about what people on the forum are doing to their cars for offroad recreational bush work and crawling, their mods do not suit yur purpose and it will only cause you more grief at speed due to instability, high centre of gravity, and too much tyre.

This is what you need, a decent set of springs, not too hard/not too soft, good quality set of shockies and a good quality steering damper, ensure all the bushes in your springs are perfect, make sure wheel bearings, swivel head bearings and all tie rod ends are perfect and your steering box is in good condition, don't remove the sway bars, run standard shackles, don't run tyres larger than 235's and make sure they are in good condition and a decent brand, don't run any body lift, have a wheel alignment done and ensure all four wheels are correctly ballanced.

These are offroad race cars that ran in the standard engine class, the white car in the first pic belongs to Lincoln the very dark blue one in the first pic belongs to Ken, the light blue one in second pic used to belong to my son, these cars ran stock engines and suspension like what i have described which allowed them to be driven driven flat out on rough, corrugated dirt roads, drifted through corners, slid over slipery ground, jumped and landed at speed while remaining stable, safe and forgiving. My sons car was running 2" 006 King springs, long travel adjustable Koni Shockies, genuine Suzuki rubber bushes in the springs (we found poly bushes were too harsh), 7" F100 offset rims, 215 BFG mud terrain tyres. When we originally set up the blue car for my son he was racing it in events while he was still a kid at high school on his "P" plates, it handled well and he was able to drive it hard and fast with confidence. The other two car were set up very similar and perform extremely well.