[foolsp33d]

FUCK! 2nd one in two days!!

So as most probably know, I brought a HT 1.0.. and am REALLY not winning with it.
The story..
On the journey home the timing belt snapped.. having no tools I popped the dizzy cap off and turned it over.. cool.. dizzy dont spin, snapped belt seems like obvious symptom.. Get it home, pull the rad. forward, fan off, get the T-belt cover off.. yep.. busted belt. A call to bursons got me a dayco belt (84 tooth, as thats what i counted on the snapped one)

now admitedly.. i DID have the dizzy out so had to reset the dizzy poistion, going by the FSM thats put the cam on the correct V marking, cam turns freely and has no issue, all valves opening and closing, sweet this IS easy im thinkin....insert dizzy( this acutally sets the dizzy to piston 4 firing position).. align crank mark to alignment V, reassemble.. thats according to manual.

Rather than going and putting everything back together and finding it still wouldnt go I left the fan, t-belt cover rocker cover off..
Turn the key...It fired, ran for about 15 seconds then stopped.. odd.. go to restart.. Horrid noise.. hmm.. pop dizzy cap off..and turn over.. dizzy aint spinnin, more horrid noises.. weird.. pull the t-belt off again, and its torn 4-5 teeth hmmm not happy at this stage, try turning the cam.. FARKIN TIGHT.. WTF is the go there!?! but it fired so I left it at that..

Ordered a new belt this morning, this time went with Gates, rather than the Dayco, maybe it was a quality issue with the belt I thought.. I go about the same procedure as before, set the cam, set the crank rotate half a dozen times to bed the belt in.. niiice all spins nicely so this time reassembling it entirely, as surely it had to be a dodgy belt or somethin causing the problem.. so t-belt cover on, rocker cover on, fan back in, new fan belt..

Turn the key.. same thing again.. 15 seconds or so run time..then stopped.. now its REALLY starting to shit me.. pulled the plugs out thinkin ok, B4T said the head gasket needed doing, maybe its got water in a cylinder and thats causing it to hydro-lock.. give it another kick in the guts.. THAT horrid noise is back and that freakin dizzy AGAIN aint spinnin! No watr out the pistons either....FAAARK!! so thats where im at.. A loss as to WTF is goin on.. cracked the shits and come inside, venting to you lot and hopefully get some advice or suggestions as to WTF is goin on!

Any ideas!?

[DMAC]

How did you set the tension on the belt?
On the 1.3 you have to loosen off all the cam adjusters rotate crank twice and tighen belt adjuster and tensioner. Rset all the valve clearances.

Work through what the belt drives. Crank drives camshaft. Nothing else.

Camshaft isn't bent?
Camshaft drives.......

Dizzy turns freely?
A valve bent?
Fuel pump rod bent?

Something has to be out of whack to break the belt, it's going take a bit to track it down.

Good luck.

[royce]

I would undo all the rockers and see if the cam turns free

are you able to tell if its stripping at the crank or cam end?

[foolsp33d]

dmac:
tension obtained by doing the rotation, to set the belt, then tightening to within the specs.. 5.5-6.5mm..

cam spun freely when aligning, no issues what so ever.. I checked that just prior to final assembly, using ratchet on crank to turn motor at least 10 times 360*.

Dizzy turned no worries, no broken teeth, no bends, etc.

Fuel pump has been replaced with an electric unti and a blocking plate is in place of original unit.

Royce, wouldnt know which end its stripping fella. but the cam being hard to turn at present makes me think its top end..

was HOPING to fix on a cheap budget..with minimal disasembly.. looks like thats not gunna happen lol.. guess i'l have to wait till the weather cools a lil and start re-disassembly sucks.. workin out in the street NO shade..

hmm wonder how one of them efi f10's would go lol!

guess the other option is to strip the head off, redo the head gasket and get the cam replaced new valves, reseat etc.. but by the time id have paid for that, i could probably have just put a reco engine in! Gar.. Whats got me really buggered is it WAS running no worries prior to the original belt breaking! B4T will vouch for that!

[Zachius]

I think the noise gives a hint that something is definitely not right...

How tight was the camshaft? With a normal length spanner for the camshaft gear bolt head it should turn over pretty easily. I don't know if you can turn the camshaft separately to the crank on the 1.0 as I am not sure if the valves interfere with the pistons.

Only other think I can think of is that the belt is not been tensioned properly.

[v.w.dave]

Oil Starvation??? a long shot but has you oil light come on at all??? I have seen plenty of head get destroyed from low oil pressure. It would explain the tight cam. It also explains why it runs for a few seconds then stops. WHen its cold it runs then the heat at the cam builds up and expands and grabs the cam.

Just a thought.

[foolsp33d]

^^ is a possibility, specially seein it still has milky oil, but no.. oil light never came on when driving home prior to the belt originally snapping..
hasnt run for long enough since replacing the belt/s to check..

sigh.. anyone got a decent f10a they are lookin to get rid of!?

[MacDaddy]

If it has Milky Oil in the engine, you better flush and change ASAP !
Water in the oil will make the oil lift off metal surfaces, not stick to them, so you may have metal rubbing on metal... not good...

[foolsp33d]

yeh realise the urgent need to change the oil bloody $$ are the major issue atm. $30 on two timing belts and another $15 tomorrow.. i know where that $ COULD of been spent, and was planning on being spent on oil! sigh.. woe is me looks like it might be a case of an oil change with the good ol blak n gold oil from the local IGA...DODGY but fresh is better than ick!!

[v.w.dave]

WHere are you fools???

[BenT]

foolsp33d wrote:

^^ is a possibility, specially seein it still has milky oil

So if it still has milky oil, does that mean the headgasket was changed? If so, then the head gasket is probably on backwards, and the cam oil feed is blocked and your cam is seizing.


Ben

[mightymouse]

A thought if you had the head skimmed recently the machine shop may not have macined the cam pedestals therefore puting uneven load on cam this has been a problem before on a job I had done some time ago akthough it was on a sigma head I would think it is not streching the imagination too far to think this could be the same

[foolsp33d]

am in Melbourne.. inner city atm..

Head gasket NEEDS replacing, but not yet done, plan was to get rwc and rego on it and then worry about the mechnical issues.. but consequently.. car needs to run to recieve RWC.. funny that...

[want33s]

I'd be looking hard at the cam and its oil supply... It's not uncommon for 1.0's to seize the camshaft.

[foolsp33d]

^^ interesting.. will keep eyes peeled for a runnin 1.0 in the meantime, but thinkin maybe an oil change, and giving the cam a good oil on the way thru might hopefully with any luck and crossing the fingers, wishing on a shooting star and avoiding black cats will let it spin free when I put the NEXT belt on...

tis annoying, cos it WAS runnin like a dream!!

Might give RPM etc a buzz tomorrow and see what damage they will charge for a reco..

[foolsp33d]

the bonnet just fell onto my head... but.. looks like its seizing in the cam.. tried again, reinstalled one of the now fucked belts.. kicked it in the guts.. same thing..5-10 seconds run time.. n dead stop.. paid attention to the cam this time, and noticed smoke? coming from where the two phillips head screws are retaining the lifters between the 1st n 2nd piston..concern has started to kick in


starving for oil? possibly blocked journal? stuffed oil pump? Any other suggestions?

video of engine turning over(not starting) but turns relatively easy...
*15 views within minutes of u/loading.. WTF YOUTUBE SIERRA STALKERS!*

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=doOM35iRJ2M

[want33s]

Possibly the head is warped up between 1 & 2 and is putting too much pressure on the cam journal.
It has a blown head gasket doesn't it???
I'd replace the head.

[foolsp33d]

yeh head gasketis blown.. looks like a chocolate milkshake.. only oily... Just hitup pigdog about the 1.0 he has. so with any luck, swap that in and be good to go...

will still tear this down and do a final examination as to what the problem is thou.. them phillips head screws are BLOODY TIGHT!!

cheers for all the input fellas! appreciated

[MacDaddy]

The cam, vales and head, look very dry of oil, doesnt look like fresh oil has been pumped up for a while...

[TZAR]

foolsp33d wrote:

yeh head gasketis blown.. looks like a chocolate milkshake.. only oily... Just hitup pigdog about the 1.0 he has. so with any luck, swap that in and be good to go...

will still tear this down and do a final examination as to what the problem is thou.. them phillips head screws are BLOODY TIGHT!!

cheers for all the input fellas! appreciated

take the head to an engine reconditioner and get a quote on the head and cam repair

much cheaper

[Built4thrashing]

swap out the oil with some old shitty oil as the Blown head oil is now to airated to get pumped by the oil pump. flush it out and then do the timing belt and you should be all sweet.

[foolsp33d]

sweet as B4. got it drainin now and will be hittin up the local mechnic for some new used oil to pre flush with first thing appreciate all the help fellas! Will keep you ALL informed as to how goes over the next few days

[v.w.dave]

Hmmm kinda scary I was the first one to be right.... I guess even a broken clock is right twice a day.

[Rockhopper]

TZAR wrote:

take the head to an engine reconditioner and get a quote on the head and cam repair

much cheaper

If you just bought the car and the cam has siezed up I'd be looking at doing the whole engine. Nothing like the feeling of spending money on doing your head and cam up and putting it all back together only to find you bottom end is f#$%ed too.