[skitzlux]

hey all ive bent my left hand front spring at the rear. Like ive hit something and pushed the wheel back just bending the top leaf. so now it pulls to the left and is wearing the tyres uneven im pretty slack. I was thinking of heating up the spring with the oxy and having a jack under the chassis rail, so it sits at the right height. Will it fuck the steel and make it brittle and snap later on or bend easier?
thanks

[joeblow]

my god



learn how to use a full stop '.' pleeeaaassse!


change your spring, it may fatigue.

[skitzlux]

i was never good in english at school. may fatigue you say like it would snap or bend?

[steak_knife]

skitzlux wrote:

i was never good in english at school. may fatigue you say like it would snap or bend?

Yes & yes.

[BlueSuzy]

Replace leaf. Or take out and Rebent cold.

(i used to bend them alot, Now i hit things slower

[v.w.dave]

Once they are bent once they will always have that as a weak point and it will bend again. just find your self a used set of front springs. With you being in brisvagas contact Want33 on here he should be able to hook you up with a cheap spring.

[jabba]

skitzlux wrote:

hey all ive bent my left hand front spring at the rear. Like ive hit something and pushed the wheel back just bending the top leaf. so now it pulls to the left and is wearing the tyres uneven im pretty slack. I was thinking of heating up the spring with the oxy and having a jack under the chassis rail, so it sits at the right height. Will it fuck the steel and make it brittle and snap later on or bend easier?
thanks

DO NOT just reheat the spring. The spring will lose its temper and have more problems that you started with. By doing a spot heat to make a repair you will just create a weak spot and you *may* set up stress fractures around the area of the heat which will lead to catastrophic failure (broken leaf).

All leaf (and coil) springs are heated to around 950 – 1000 degrees C in a furnace, hardened (cooled) in oil and then tempered at around 400 degrees C through a tempering furnace.

If you have hit something hard then there are few scenarios:

1 - You may have opened up one of the eyes on the main leaf
---- Go to a spring maker - Dobinsons, Kings, someone like that and get them to re-roll the eye . The leaf will have to be re hardened and tempered and reset into the pack

2 – You have bent leaf or some leaves.
---- Go to a spring maker - Dobinsons, Kings, someone like that and get them to reset the leaf. The leaf will have to be re hardened and tempered and reset into the pack

3 - You have broken the centre bolt and or loosened the clips
---- If the rest of the spring is OK then just replace the centre bolt and re tighten the clips

Any time a leaf (any leaf) is replaced/ repaired. The leaf has to be set into the pack. This requires that the pack is broken apart, the main leaf or affected leaf is repaired or replaced and the other leaves are set into it. The centre bolt, nylon inserts, bushes and spring clips can be reused if they are in good condition but I would recommend replacing the centre bolt as this can fail later.

The cheap way is to repair the damage and reassemble without a reset, the better way is to repair the damage and reset the leaf into the pack with a fresh harden and temper.

Or get a new pack from the wreckers

[skitzlux]

Ive got some old rear springs, could i put the top leaf in the front packs i have to keep the height and have a longer spring. Its a narrow track so i cant re drill the rear hanger that far back, so what do people do when they do a RUF on a narrow track without extending the chassis.

[want33s]

My LWB is a 1.0 NT chassis and I've redrilled the spring hanger back 20mm and up 20mm..... There IS enough room.

[skitzlux]

whats your shackle angle like? and when doing the ruf do i need a drive shaft spacer if so what size do i need? thanks

[BlueSuzy]

May i suggest you search alittle?

[skitzlux]

i was just askin want33s cos he said hes done it on a nt there is heaps of people that do it on wt

[2stroker]

want33s wrote:

My LWB is a 1.0 NT chassis and I've redrilled the spring hanger back 20mm and up 20mm..... There IS enough room.

I would not recommend doing this it is not a good practice, the spring bush is not fully supported by the spring hanger. If a QLD transport inspector sees it he will have a fit.

Steknig should have a few sets of front springs laying around that I am sure will be going to the dump, just throw a set of springs in and be done with it.

[Ben_Sierra]

I have a full set of stock springs here in Perth that you can take off my hands if you like... If you organise postage you can have them for nothing, I need the space...