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Post Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 8:27 am 
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Hello there, I am new to this forum and was just wondering what you fellow sj80 owners have running? and where u get it from? well here is where i am at: 40mm suspension lift yup ultima shocks/struts luvells springs.... not too bad. 2inch body, 30inch maxxis treps they are great! sticks to mud like a priest to a altar boy. take it as a grain of salt :P anyways... getting 15mm spring spacers because muddies still rub. have massaged the guards with hammer, going to make up some body armor next... spesh the fuel tank...
and after some REDUCTION GEARS!!!! yeah well need help there? dont really want to change normal H driving much.... well when in low you have 5 gears... so lets use em... i shreek at the thought of my poor clutch.
Can you just change the low gear in them? sorry new to all of this... if so maybe change it so very small change on high then change low then change low again if you get me? i want it like dolly steps.
I heard that some magna model the rear struts out of that can be put in the front of the zook and get 3inch lift? was thinking of more lift maybe.... Didnt really like the idea of body lift really unusable other then fitting the tyres in unless you wanted flex like a ford forcus. lol and if i was to weld new spring mounts i should change the diffs why i am at it lol... so is there anything i could really do to make it a really go anywhere 4x4..... oh and air locker.
Also anyone in the newcastle area got a sheet metal bender n roller? want to make front and rear bars. thank you for any comments.

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 8:45 am 
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there isn't a whole heap of other things that you can do to your coily unless you start going custom.

To put different shocks and springs in you would have to make new shock and spring mount on the front. Then you have to worry about strength, so new control arms would be needed front and rear.

To put reduction gears in then you will need a leaf sprung 1.3L transfer case and mounts. From my understanding you can't have a massive reduction in low range without it affecting you high range revs (as they are designed for a bigger tyre)...i think diff gears help.

To fit front and rear lockers you can't use your coily diffs, so if you wanted to stay suzuki then you would have to use leaf sprung diffs.

i no longer own a coily but when i did it was pretty much at the level that yours is at now. I found that there wasnt much more i could do without some big $$$ being spent. If you have some good fab skills then you should be able to turn it into a little weapon.

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 8:56 am 
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hmmmm well every prob i hit i have changed things to match.... ok i swear i thought i could get air locks for my diffs????? well i asked the guy at arb and he said yeah no worries... unless he was like eeerrr it says suzuki in the book it should match lol i would only want rear anyways. also i have got a steering damp to instill and i have changed my normal high low lights to 35w HID :lol: so i cant get the tranny gears for my t-case??? i thought theyh would of used the same t case.... f+cking japps

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 11:42 am 
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Transfer gears are a pain, agree with hooki. Pretty sure the rear should be ok for air lokka, the front can also be done by using a modified jimny lokka. Suspension, look at a build up by saam, trodgor 2 was his car, nothng much more can be done than what saam had done, unless you want to go really craz that is.

Welcome to auszookers also, good to see another fellow coily owner on here. You will cop grief for owning a coily, we all do.

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 2:55 pm 
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but we know we are better hey rusho

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 3:45 pm 
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You have a pretty similar set up to me, but i have swapped the transfer case for a wt leafy one and fitted 4.9 reduction gears, a auto locker in the rear diff and a winch. I broke a fair bit of stuff so then i beefed up radial arm mounts on the rear diff and strengthened the strut towers, the only thing that will break now is a radial arm :twisted:

With the reduction gears you cant just have the low range, there will be a small high range reduction to correct the difference in tyre size. I do rev pretty hard at 100k i rev at ~ 4100 rpm, but i am only on 235s if i had 31s it would be fine. With my low range there is a reduction of about 120% and it is awesome :D

coilys are ok if you dont plan on going bigger then a 31" tyre on the zook diffs. if you break an axle or cv parts can be hard to come by.

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 4:57 pm 
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Hi Rob!

just get a 1lt transfer case, it will serve you great with the 30's

oh and my engines all back together, cars ready for paint this weekend, just need to re attach the exhaust and fit yet another new battery and i should be good go wheeling with u and dan.

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 5:15 pm 
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hey mate you can always swap out for 3inch bod lift from snake racing, although these are pricey, and i could hardly see the benefit

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 5:39 pm 
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plopp wrote:
hey mate you can always swap out for 3inch bod lift from snake racing, although these are pricey, and i could hardly see the benefit


Nor legal.

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 9:13 pm 
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BlueSuzy wrote:
plopp wrote:
hey mate you can always swap out for 3inch bod lift from snake racing, although these are pricey, and i could hardly see the benefit


Nor legal.


My Suzuki (SJ80) has a 3" Body Lift. My Suzuki has an Engineers Certificate for said body lift. My Suzuki has also been defected on more then one occassion (other reasons) and the body lift has never come into question from the police, vehicle inspectors or the RTA.

So what part of a 3" body lift is illegal? The process on how the body lift is done may deem it illegal (like any body lift), but the simple fact of being 3" is not and it can be made legal.

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 9:18 pm 
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Rob has only just put the lift + bodylift and tyres on his zook, so i doubt he is keen to remove all the stuff he has just put in.

Can you extend the radius arms by say 20mm? surely that would counter the lift? or will it throw out the entire geometry of the front end?

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 10:00 pm 
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weaves wrote:
Rob has only just put the lift + bodylift and tyres on his zook, so i doubt he is keen to remove all the stuff he has just put in.

Can you extend the radius arms by say 20mm? surely that would counter the lift? or will it throw out the entire geometry of the front end?


You can change the arms, but the only off-the-shelf
arms you can buy are snake racing arms & their asking
550 each. :roll:

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 10:33 pm 
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Rusho is right. You can definitely get an air locker for the rear diff of a coily. I have one in mine. No luck for a stock front diff though.

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 6:48 pm 
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weaves wrote:
Rob has only just put the lift + bodylift and tyres on his zook, so i doubt he is keen to remove all the stuff he has just put in.

Can you extend the radius arms by say 20mm? surely that would counter the lift? or will it throw out the entire geometry of the front end?


it would be easier to get big offset rims, i use 15x8 -24mm sunnies

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Post Posted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 12:12 am 
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Ridge wrote:
weaves wrote:
Rob has only just put the lift + bodylift and tyres on his zook, so i doubt he is keen to remove all the stuff he has just put in.

Can you extend the radius arms by say 20mm? surely that would counter the lift? or will it throw out the entire geometry of the front end?


it would be easier to get big offset rims, i use 15x8 -24mm sunnies
I think robs problem is it's hitting the firewall, not the chassis. And from memory he already is running offset sunnies 15x7 -24. If he could move his wholediff foward it should solve the problem

weaves

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 6:12 pm 
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wheres the best place to get suspension lift for a coily? on the cheap side.

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 9:59 pm 
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weaves wrote:
Ridge wrote:
weaves wrote:
Rob has only just put the lift + bodylift and tyres on his zook, so i doubt he is keen to remove all the stuff he has just put in.

Can you extend the radius arms by say 20mm? surely that would counter the lift? or will it throw out the entire geometry of the front end?


it would be easier to get big offset rims, i use 15x8 -24mm sunnies
I think robs problem is it's hitting the firewall, not the chassis. And from memory he already is running offset sunnies 15x7 -24. If he could move his wholediff foward it should solve the problem

weaves


if he extends his bump stops and bashes his guards a bit he shouldn't have a problem with scrubbing. moving the diff forward would be a PITA on a coily.

zookieboi wrote:
wheres the best place to get suspension lift for a coily? on the cheap side.
ebay

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 2:02 am 
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well its not hitting when the wheel is turned... hit straight up the top... on the flares... jeep flars i am looking at 400 - 900 bucks or something stupid.. and for that price i can get a locker lol so no i wouldn't do that! ok if i put a 1lt tran case in is there much to change???? now how much of a reduction is putting the 1lt in? and are reduction gears for a 1lt trans easy to come by? if i needed or wanted more of a reduction.. reductions i can get are 1200 for my transfer.. or vs 200 for a 1lt now putting a 1lt in WOULD or should i put a cradle in too.

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 6:09 am 
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rob87 wrote:
now how much of a reduction is putting the 1lt in? and are reduction gears for a 1lt trans easy to come by? if i needed or wanted more of a reduction.. reductions i can get are 1200 for my transfer.. or vs 200 for a 1lt now putting a 1lt in WOULD or should i put a cradle in too.


1.3 leafy transfer reduces your gearing about 6% and a 1L transfer reduces your gearing about 12%. I have a leafy transfer in mine with 30's. It seems a good compromise if you use it on the road a lot. I've also put a 1L in it too, it revved way too much on road but was excellent offroad. I drive to work a 60km round trip every day, if I wasn't going that far then the 1L transfer would probably stay in.

To do the conversion you need the leafy transfer mount, the leafy transfer flanges (coily ones have a different spline count), the leafy intermediate shaft (between gearbox and transfer) - coily intermediate shaft is wrong length. And obviously your leafy transfer case. If you get a 1L transfer, make sure it has the switch on it for the 4wd dash light. I believe these ones can also be rebuilt with aftermarket reduction gears.

*guru's please confirm this last point*

Also, I don't reckon you need a cradle with stock gear sets.

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 8:36 pm 
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bagnkat wrote:
1.3 leafy transfer reduces your gearing about 6% and a 1L transfer reduces your gearing about 12%.


A 1L case is around an 18% reduction on a stock coily case. So with 31's it will be back around stock gearing

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 10:47 pm 
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all the transfer mounts are the same for a coily to a leafy

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 18, 2010 8:52 am 
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guys, any easy way to determine the difference between a 1ltr and coily transfer case??? I have a coily with 1.6 carby motor and 30 inch tyres and my low range is good! http://s865.photobucket.com/albums/ab21 ... %20Sierra/

Sorry for the hi jack mate just didnt want to start a hole new thread.

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