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Post Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2010 10:03 pm 
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Hey have any of you made your beedlocked rims?? I searched on here and couldn't find any. I am wanting to make some with a spare set of rims I have but I want some pics and ideas. As I have only just started to look into it what all is needed?

the reason i am looking into this is in the past 4 weeks I have rolled 4 tyres. before that time I had never had any.
Picks or links would be a big help.

Thanks

I know hit is kind of in the wrong place but it will be a fab post in time.

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Post Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2010 10:11 pm 
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I pit crewed for a supercharged outlaw car a few years back. From memory all the owner used was a hex head self tapping screw, like a roofing screw i guess. Holes drilled every few inches into the rim then into the bead if I remember correctly. I actually never did it and never saw it actually done, but it definately worked

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Post Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2010 10:15 pm 
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Rusho81 wrote:
I pit crewed for a supercharged outlaw car a few years back. From memory all the owner used was a hex head self tapping screw, like a roofing screw i guess. Holes drilled every few inches into the rim then into the bead if I remember correctly. I actually never did it and never saw it actually done, but it definately worked
Hmmm yahh but I did a bit of reading a while ago that said that do that can = highway death... hahahah not my kind of thing. I like slow speed crash's not high speed :)

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Post Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2010 10:21 pm 
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This thing ran a 1/4 in 7.01 @ 180-190 MPH never crashed. What is the reasoning behind it?? Don't doubt it, just curious. You could always buy a set of those Staun beadlocks??

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Post Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2010 10:31 pm 
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weld on kits can be had for around $100 per rim

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Post Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2010 10:34 pm 
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stauns are were its at best idea no problem with balancing with weights ect

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Post Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2010 10:43 pm 
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flaxton123 wrote:
stauns are were its at best idea no problem with balancing with weights ect

Guys over here have had problems with mud and rocks getting in the beads still with stauns. My externals cost $110 each I think ( minus bolts ), I got them done at a laser cutting place. Just give them the measurements and they cut it all up. Roctoy on Outers sells them too I think.

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Post Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2010 10:53 pm 
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the bead locks on both my bikes are just screws through the rim. :wink:

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Post Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2010 11:02 pm 
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the guy who make the roctoy rings also makes beadlock kits..

check out outerlimits

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Post Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2010 11:19 pm 
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on my 31 silverstone xtreems in have 8 12mm pk screws on in side and out, they have been proven in sss whinch chalenges a couple of years back on a hilux :wink: the reasone i run em is so the rim doesent turn on the tyre at low pressures or the valves stems will snap off, and also as a bead lock 8)

you can see em on the inside of the rim :wink:


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Post Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2010 11:22 pm 
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alex wrote:
on my 31 silverstone xtreems in have 8 12mm pk screws on in side and out, they have been proven in sss whinch chalenges a couple of years back on a hilux :wink: the reasone i run em is so the rim doesent turn on the tyre at low pressures or the valves stems will snap off, and also as a bead lock 8)

you can see em on the inside of the rim :wink:


Sierra lean much! i like your shockies angled down

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 16, 2010 1:25 am 
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I would be dubious to screws effectivness to lock the tyre to the bead for a 4wd, the force is pushing on the bead not spinning it like a drag car, and its easy to pull a screw out of a tyre sideways

like said, rings are cheap to buy but you cant balance them (or try the lead shot stuff) or stauns, which can still bust through

they all have good and bad points, the sikaflex that bonds rubber to steel is also good :)

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 16, 2010 2:24 am 
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royce wrote:
I would be dubious to screws effectivness to lock the tyre to the bead for a 4wd, the force is pushing on the bead not spinning it like a drag car, and its easy to pull a screw out of a tyre sideways

like said, rings are cheap to buy but you cant balance them (or try the lead shot stuff) or stauns, which can still bust through

they all have good and bad points, the sikaflex that bonds rubber to steel is also good )
Stika flex was what I was going ot try first. or rubber cement.

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 16, 2010 2:29 am 
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v.w.dave wrote:
Stika flex was what I was going ot try first. or rubber cement.


The brand tip top, thay make glue's & lube's for tyre's, ( think that's the brand) sell a glue that was made for sealing the beed, but it dose glue it on quite well.

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 16, 2010 2:31 am 
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Sutho wrote:
alex wrote:
on my 31 silverstone xtreems in have 8 12mm pk screws on in side and out, they have been proven in sss whinch chalenges a couple of years back on a hilux :wink: the reasone i run em is so the rim doesent turn on the tyre at low pressures or the valves stems will snap off, and also as a bead lock 8)

you can see em on the inside of the rim :wink:


Sierra lean much! i like your shockies angled down



There is no lean i spent lotsa time getting it not to lean :wink: its the camera angle :oops:

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 16, 2010 2:31 am 
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if you go with sika, ask for the ADHESIVE for rubber to steel, not the sealant, which doesnt glue

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 16, 2010 2:32 am 
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steknig wrote:
v.w.dave wrote:
Stika flex was what I was going ot try first. or rubber cement.


The brand tip top, thay make glue's & lube's for tyre's, ( think that's the brand) sell a glue that was made for sealing the beed, but it dose glue it on quite well.


yep tip top we got the stuff at work :wink:

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 16, 2010 4:58 am 
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Has any one one here used the screw through the beed idea on a car that is 50% offroad 50% on road??? how well did it hold up?

I am going to give the sika flex or tip top a go and go on from there.

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 16, 2010 1:44 pm 
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v.w.dave wrote:
Has any one one here used the screw through the beed idea on a car that is 50% offroad 50% on road??? how well did it hold up?

I am going to give the sika flex or tip top a go and go on from there.


I used that on my ole race car, beed's never came off at 12psi & flogging the bejebus out of it.

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 1:55 am 
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There is no way that I would be drilling holes in the rims and screwing self tapers into 100's of dollars worth of tyres. My tyres have gone down slowly with a self taper in the tread so how would it go with 10-20 of them through the rim and into the bead. I think it is a stupid idea, sikaflex is the way to go.

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 2:51 am 
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I'm trying sika on one of my Silverstones at the moment. I only did one for the time being in case It proves to be useless or even a problem. I am slightly concerned as to how hard it will be to remove the tyre from the rim at a later date, what are peoples experiences here?
(but looking at my tyres, I think the tyres will outlast the rims anyway :lol: )

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 19, 2010 2:17 am 
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2stroker wrote:
There is no way that I would be drilling holes in the rims and screwing self tapers into 100's of dollars worth of tyres. My tyres have gone down slowly with a self taper in the tread so how would it go with 10-20 of them through the rim and into the bead. I think it is a stupid idea, sikaflex is the way to go.



thats why you dont get too long screws, and i run tubes aswell it has held up a fair beeting with only 3 psi.

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 19, 2010 2:50 am 
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The screws are meant to go into the bead not through the bead to the inside of the tyre. Most tyres have quite a bit of meat there to screw into.

Mechanical ring type beadlocks I don't like so much as they typically only lock one side of the tyre. Stauns at least locate both sides of the tyre. But these also are a little prone to failure.

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 19, 2010 12:08 pm 
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you dont really need to lock the inner bead as its the safety bead side and is a lot wider surface, youd really need to push the tyre in a long way to push it off the bead

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 2:19 am 
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speedway bikes and sidecars run screws into their beads, they spin them at a great rate of knots. these are full blown 1000cc road bike engines powering the bikes, approx 170HP plus. im sure you could run small screws about 6-8mm long and not do any damage. in saying that though your not going to get me doing it unless my car was driven in low range everywhere and off road. best bet would to use some sort of urethane maybe on the bead and see if it helps. if all else fails use super glue

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 2:45 am 
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The damage comes from damaging the sealing edge of the tyre. Also can let water into the bead wire and cause rust and bead failure.

Sikaflex used to be a real pain in the arse to get the tyre off and then we had to clean up the rim before we could put the tyre back on again.

Pneumatic bead breakers on tyre fitting machines are pretty powerful. They can really force a tyre off.

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 2:12 am 
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and rip the shit out of the bead in the process

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 10:41 pm 
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i remember some guys that ride ATV's used to glue their tyres on as they only run low pressures, like down to 2 and 3 psi. maybe look for a glue in the states as atv's are massive over there

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 11:50 pm 
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just_cruizin wrote:
The screws are meant to go into the bead not through the bead to the inside of the tyre. Most tyres have quite a bit of meat there to screw into.

Mechanical ring type beadlocks I don't like so much as they typically only lock one side of the tyre. Stauns at least locate both sides of the tyre. But these also are a little prone to failure.


Yeah I understand the principal but half the guys on the forum have trouble screwing a rubber flare to a guard so I wouldn't be keen on them putting screws going into tyre beads, good point by Tzar, the bead has bands in it and these can be damaged with screws and water ingression via screw holes. I can guarantee that Qld Transport will defect you if you do this, if you are continually having this problem review your rim and tyre size as they may not be compatable.

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