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S13RR4
Joined: Sat Aug 22, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 1072 Location: Sunshine Coast
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 Posted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 1:52 am |
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my car has developed quite a severs vibration, heres how the story goes...
car had a squeak noise that seemed to have no cause-response. ie I couldn't identify what caused or under what conditions the noise would occur, seemed to be completely random.
replaced fan belt (which was barely still together) which reduced the noise but didnt completely remove it.
noise then got worse again and developed into a vibration. This was identified to be the universal joints on the main shaft had too much play(from Gearbox to Transfer), which made sense because the vibration only occured when gears were engaged (in nuetral no vibration)
was unable to get new uni's due to easter and having trouble identifying what model my car was (found out sj70 = sj413) and the vibration got worse, since its a daily driver I thought I should fix it asap,
I obtained an entire second hand shaft complete with uni's which I was told was in good condition and had good uni's so I put that in
currently the car has a vibration worse then before and vibrate's whether it is in nuetral or gear, is only noticable above about 30-40km/h
either the new shaft and uni's didnt fix the problem and I plan to rebuild the shaft that came out of the car with new uni's
or
the shaft fixed A problem (the unis that came out were ruined) but there was another problem that has worsened
or
changing the shafts over has caused another problem that is vibrating
the thing that gets me is that it vibrates all the time
hubs are unlocked and front shaft from tc to front diff is free.
any help would be great
wheel bearings?
wheel balance?
alignment?
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Junior_91
Joined: Tue Mar 17, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 1084 Location: Ipswich
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 Posted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 1:58 am |
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Check the unis on you jack shaft as well the one between the gearbox and the t-case AND your tail shaft as well, if not check your gearbox mount.
_________________ TWIN LOCK IT & JUST DRIVE!
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S13RR4
Joined: Sat Aug 22, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 1072 Location: Sunshine Coast
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 Posted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 1:59 am |
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they have a little bit of play in them
would that explain why its vibratong in gear and when in nuetral?
_________________ My Rig --> Click WWW
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v.w.dave
Joined: Sun Sep 27, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 1437 Location: The Hills Sydney
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 Posted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 2:07 am |
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recheck your work. check and make sure the shaft ends are correctly seated.
Find where the vibration is coming from.
Drive down a flat road and see if the vibration is more in your seat or your steering wheel. (seat = back of car steering wheel = front)
Did you take the front shaft out to replace the jack shaft? If you did did it come apart? if it did did you put it back together correctly? You may of put it back together or nocked off the balancing weights.
Did the jack shaft have the balancing weight on it?
Look at wat you have touched before you start looking to other things.
But once you have checked all that move on to the simple first like the wheel balancing and move on.
_________________ Snap-On Dealer let me know if you need anything.
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want33s

az supporter
Joined: Fri Nov 16, 2007 10:30 pm Posts: 8134 Location: Sunshine Coast Qld
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 Posted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 2:08 am |
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Bring the jackshaft back for a refund if it didn't help...
I did say both the jackshaft and rear shaft had slop in them but the vibration could be one, the other, or both...
Fix any apparent problem(worn uni's) and then look further.
Vibration felt like driveline to me and not wheel balance. Wheel bearings won't cause a vibration but a rumble.
Vibration whether in gear or not suggests to me rear shaft is the culprit... OR .. did you check the LH hub to make sure it is disengaging?
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S13RR4
Joined: Sat Aug 22, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 1072 Location: Sunshine Coast
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 Posted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 2:20 am |
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havnt checked LH hub but front shaft from tc to front diff moves freely so I assume its disengaging, any other way to check??
I didn't personnaly put the new shaft in ( my brother did) so I'm not sure if there were any troubles with install, will have to look at it with him tommorow night and see if we can identify a problem with it.
vibration seems to be whole car, steering wheel and seat
I dont thim my suspension bushes are all that great and my steering damperner is screwed I think - could this be adding to the problem??
_________________ My Rig --> Click WWW
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wyt91t
Joined: Tue Mar 24, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 134 Location: Wakeley
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 Posted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 4:11 am |
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check your tyres too, lift the car on jack stands then see if the vibration is still there..
i had a bubble on my tyre once that i went crazy trying to find drive it to th emechanic when i finally saved up the money and he saw the lump in my tyre straight away didnt i feel stupid...
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S13RR4
Joined: Sat Aug 22, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 1072 Location: Sunshine Coast
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 Posted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 1:03 pm |
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wyt91t wrote: check your tyres too, lift the car on jack stands then see if the vibration is still there..
i had a bubble on my tyre once that i went crazy trying to find drive it to th emechanic when i finally saved up the money and he saw the lump in my tyre straight away didnt i feel stupid...
thanks mate I'll have a look
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Scrawny

I live here!
Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2008 10:30 pm Posts: 10528 Location: Brissie
Vehicle: Popemobile
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 Posted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 1:17 pm |
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S13RR4 wrote: havnt checked LH hub but front shaft from tc to front diff moves freely so I assume its disengaging, any other way to check??
This doesn't mean that both hubs are undone, turning the shaft will just be turning the diff centre if one hub is still connected. Just pull the free wheeling hubs off altogether and go for a short drive.
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S13RR4
Joined: Sat Aug 22, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 1072 Location: Sunshine Coast
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 Posted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 2:08 pm |
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ScrawnC wrote: S13RR4 wrote: havnt checked LH hub but front shaft from tc to front diff moves freely so I assume its disengaging, any other way to check?? This doesn't mean that both hubs are undone, turning the shaft will just be turning the diff centre if one hub is still connected. Just pull the free wheeling hubs off altogether and go for a short drive.
ok I will try this, it does sem to feel like a worse version of the vibration that I feel when driving on the beach with the hubs locked in
p.s. how do I remove the free wheeling hubs?? is it just the 6 bolts on the outer most part (the ones that you showed me the other day Jas?)
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TZAR

az supporter
Joined: Tue Aug 01, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 3461 Location: licking some windows
Vehicle: LJ20 LJ50
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 Posted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 2:33 pm |
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or engage ONE and try and turn the shaft, then disengage that one and engage the other one and see if you can turn the shaft, then try the first one again with the other undone. Doing this will tell you if you have a hub that is not disengaging.
Also run your hands around the tyre SLOWLY and feel for any lumps, deformations etc or just go to your local tyre store and they can check them for free, will only take a minute
DO ONE THING AT A TIME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! this will help isolate the problem and make finding the cure very easy
_________________ Camels have nice toes
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Scrawny

I live here!
Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2008 10:30 pm Posts: 10528 Location: Brissie
Vehicle: Popemobile
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 Posted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 2:40 pm |
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S13RR4 wrote: ScrawnC wrote: S13RR4 wrote: havnt checked LH hub but front shaft from tc to front diff moves freely so I assume its disengaging, any other way to check?? This doesn't mean that both hubs are undone, turning the shaft will just be turning the diff centre if one hub is still connected. Just pull the free wheeling hubs off altogether and go for a short drive. ok I will try this, it does sem to feel like a worse version of the vibration that I feel when driving on the beach with the hubs locked in p.s. how do I remove the free wheeling hubs?? is it just the 6 bolts on the outer most part (the ones that you showed me the other day Jas?)
Yes, undoing the 6 small bolts on the outer face will allow you to remove the locking part of the hub. This will effectively render it fully unlocked.
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S13RR4
Joined: Sat Aug 22, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 1072 Location: Sunshine Coast
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 Posted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 10:19 pm |
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ScrawnC wrote: Yes, undoing the 6 small bolts on the outer face will allow you to remove the locking part of the hub. This will effectively render it fully unlocked.
ok, I should probably regrease it all while I'm in there too, will it be ok to drive the car with these off, the front of the car isn't going to fall of or anything...
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alien
Joined: Wed Mar 24, 2010 10:30 pm Posts: 16343 Location: Perth
Vehicle: '92 Sierra, 1.6efi, SPOA, 31s.
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 Posted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 10:44 pm |
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silly question - but the shafts - were they put back in phase?
_________________ 
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S13RR4
Joined: Sat Aug 22, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 1072 Location: Sunshine Coast
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 Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 2:35 pm |
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alien wrote: silly question - but the shafts - were they put back in phase?
not a silly question, I dont know for sure if they were, but its possible that they weren't.
The only way I can think to check is to undo shaft and rotate 90 degrees and try that, but then I dont know if the gb and tc need to be linned up, if so there are 16 different combinations between gb and tc, let alone all the different combinations including rotating the shaft into differnt positions. is there a beter way?
could it be that the new shaft isnt balanced for my car, therefore it would be best to rebuilt the one that came out of it and line that up better??
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alien
Joined: Wed Mar 24, 2010 10:30 pm Posts: 16343 Location: Perth
Vehicle: '92 Sierra, 1.6efi, SPOA, 31s.
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 Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 3:05 pm |
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usually theres a mark on each end that you line up... different places do it differently, but its usually obvious which two bits are supposed to line up.
_________________ 
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want33s

az supporter
Joined: Fri Nov 16, 2007 10:30 pm Posts: 8134 Location: Sunshine Coast Qld
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 Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 4:05 pm |
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alien wrote: silly question - but the shafts - were they put back in phase?
The jackshaft is the only shaft touched so far and cannot be misaligned.
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alien
Joined: Wed Mar 24, 2010 10:30 pm Posts: 16343 Location: Perth
Vehicle: '92 Sierra, 1.6efi, SPOA, 31s.
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 Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 9:22 pm |
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ah - sorry - misread that tailshaft was swapped.
_________________ 
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steak_knife

az supporter
Joined: Fri May 22, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 21335 Location: Smart Ass Island
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 Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 10:53 pm |
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want33s wrote: alien wrote: silly question - but the shafts - were they put back in phase? The jackshaft is the only shaft touched so far and cannot be misaligned.
I could give it a go 
_________________ I used to be indecisive,
now I'm not so sure.....
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S13RR4
Joined: Sat Aug 22, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 1072 Location: Sunshine Coast
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 Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 1:17 am |
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the first photo is the shaft in car, are the bits circled the balancing weights??
the second one is the shaft that came out, I noticed the gb end has two larger spaced spliens so it can only go in two different ways, does it matter which way as it probably hasnt been marked, also it has no balancing weights
also whats the quick how to on replacing uni, undo circlips obviously then just knock it through, any trade secrets?
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steak_knife

az supporter
Joined: Fri May 22, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 21335 Location: Smart Ass Island
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 Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 1:37 am |
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replaceing uni's can be easy for 20 in a row, then 1 will do you head in..
Get some one that has replaced em befor to show you how, Then go & drop as many pin's as wish. ( you will soon understand) 
_________________ I used to be indecisive,
now I'm not so sure.....
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