[Derek66]

Have a 92 Vit - 16ga motor - it expired on the weekend spun no.1 bigend - have found a crack in the journal between cylinder 1 & 2 -

I would have liked to have got hold of another 16ga but I have noticed a guy on here has a 16gb - my question is - will my 8valve head go on the 1994 g16b block and will the ancillary items like alternator, starter etc fit straight over.

Am in Tassy

[eldo]

nah mate pretty sure the g16b is a 16 valve, best bet is to get a whole new upgraded donk from a later model with injection and 16 valves, also can use a baleno engine..........if it was me i would just get another g16a and drive it, is it worth spending 2 grand on it?

[Ben_Sierra]

Blocks are the same IIRC...

Pistons are different though...

[lukes_89]

just do a straight swap between the 2 engines its not that hard and you will benefit in the long run.

[Derek66]

I appreciate the responses - the vehicle is in very good nick, I am not interested in increases in performance or anything, I just want it back going, I have tried searching for a G16a motor but havent been able to find anything quickly.

There seems to be more of the B's around, but I dont want to be mucking about with the changes, I just want to get it back in order and quickly. I just need either a complete reasonable engine, or another block. When I noticed that "Datso" on here had a B I thought maybe I could get hold of that and swap my gear over onto that ( head (8v) etc) and go from there.

I just need to know for sure that the B block is a straight swap for an A.

[royce]

the head will fit and I believe the different pistons still clear

but the blocks have some value if they aren't leaking and I am sure the cranks swap over so why not just put the crank in your engine?

[Derek66]

royce wrote:

the head will fit and I believe the different pistons still clear

but the blocks have some value if they aren't leaking and I am sure the cranks swap over so why not just put the crank in your engine?

Because there is crack in the block between cylinder 1 & 2 - I have to get, at the very least, a new block now, so that I can put my gear back into it, or another complete motor - Thanks for taking the time to reply, appreciate it.

Regards

Derek

[oozuk]

8v head will bolt straight on fine to the 16v bottom end
all items will fit, just have to change over the bottom timing belt crank pulley with the 8v one as there different square tooth vs round tooth timing belt


Short answer YES LOL

[BlueSuzy]

Is someone abit testy..

YES

[royce]

journal isnt part of the block

getting short about somthing on a free service will not see you get much help either

[Derek66]

Ha - I certainly wasnt getting short, testy or anything else- I just thought that if I put up the post wanting a yes/no question/answer I would get more response. I thought maybe the way I was wording my question was no good - so I changed it. The responses made me laugh- but I am happy with the info I got back it is going to be helpful.

You also have to remember its Friday, (everything shut in Tas on W/ends) and if I got an answer it would help in deciding whichoption and what gear I might need to get.

I really do appreciate the answers. I am now in a bit of quandry, I have found a 16Valve EFI Motor for $450 - it was in a vehichle that appears to have hit a stump and the bottom pulley is bent, but I can see that the bolt positons on the pulley are all intact, but ( there is always a but) the the casting on the block where the power steering bolts on is broken on the front bolt, and there is a snapped off bolt in the lower side bolt hole, and the top hole is broken - I would have to work out how to make a bracket to overcome those breakages to run my power steering.

The a/c is removed and I am trying to work out if I could use those bolt holes to make a bracket ( I am not sure if a photo will appear - am new to all of this) but if it does it shows the bolt problems

The Wrecker said I could take the motor home for the weekend to suss it out.

[royce]

I personally would not use that motor as there are oil lines cast in behind there as well as coolant that could crack through later

infact a member here jsut got rid of a vitara due to a coolant leak right there

[Derek66]

Okay Royce, I think you have nailed the decision for me -

I had only had the Vitara for a fortnight, it is in very good condition - and just what we wanted - then the motor went - it was a private purchase from an associate so I cant make any fuss really - and the seller isnt aware of what happened.

I really just need a block, as I have sent the crank away for testing, because I was going to rebuild it, then I found the crack in the block last night when I was cleaning it.

I see there is a complete 16a on ebay but it is in Vic and the guy wants it picked up. It is annoying being in Tas - sometimes.

When the opportunity presented to pick up a complete motor, it was so tempting, I just want to get it going so I can get out and about again.

Thank you very much for your advice I do appreciate it, and will be taking it on board

Derek

[royce]

Could you take the block to the engine guy and see what they say? it might be worth testing it and repairing it, even on the mainland G16 blocks are getting hard to find due to them being chucked out with small problems

[Ben_Sierra]

People on ebay are normally pretty happy if you arrange a courier to do the pick up for you.

If you shop around you can probably get a pretty good freight price.

[bron5on]

Where in tas are you? I have a 1.6 16v in the shed that someone gave me. I want the head but you're welcome to the block. Not sure of the condition of the block itself only told that has done a big end bearing so the guy replaced the motor. I'm on the north west coast, near enough to burnie.

Edit: Sorry, am half asleep, you're after a g16a. Don't know much about similarities between the 1600s, this one might not be any good to you!

[Derek66]

I will attempt to PM you - I have had to learn a lot about these G series motors, in a hurry - I would definitely appreciate the block, I have just found out that the crank has been hammered 20 thou and may not be suitable for a regrind.

I am chasing a block/crank now.

[Derek66]

I am now advised that an Exchange engine - short ( rocker cover to sump) is $2240 here in Tas

I have been given a price of $990 for a motor with 160K out of a 2000 model Baleno - with a fuel injected head,but no loom or ecu for $990 - seeing as I wanted to fit my head ( carb) it is an expensive block and bottom end.

Am pursuing some other avenues.

[Rusho]

For a grand just go the injected engine. I know you said you didn't want to but taking off injection to put on a carb seems like big step backwards to me. It might seem like a stuff around now but in the long run it would definately be worth it. Smoother, more reliable and fuel efficient than a carb version. Jmo though. Good luck with the fix up buddy

[Derek66]

Rusho - you may be right, I am not really up with fuel injection = just basic carb stuff. From what I have worked out and looked at the ECU is the small black box undert the glovebox ( had a look at a wreck) with the wiring disappearing behind the dash I am thinking about but wonder what I could stuff up.

Have spen between 9am and 3.30pm driving to look at donor vehicles - but they are estates with in excess of 300k - one of them was rolled on Thursday - I am awaiting the outcome of an insurance claim on that one -

I think that there is enough info on this site to assist me putting the EFI in - in fact the more I look at the moe it makes sense.

[royce]

there is not way I would inject a carb vit unless the bits were real cheap and for a vit, its just easier to sell and buy an injected one

[Derek66]

Royce, I am now chasing up a complete motor, I am finding EFI motors and as my vehicle was originally a Carb set up, I have had to read up on converting to EFI, my motor is stuffed_ I have to accept that, so after two weeks of ownership I am now having to look at this option

[Derek66]

royce wrote:

there is not way I would inject a carb vit unless the bits were real cheap and for a vit, its just easier to sell and buy an injected one

Royce I noticed tha you said there was no way that you would inject a carbed vit -

I am looking for sound advice. On this site ther are many comments that fuel injection is the only way to go. I initally didnt want to go that way because of complication, however I was faced with the problem that of al the motors available in Tas they were EFi motors and I was paying for the 16v head and injection gear, and I thought well why not.

I started reading the posts about putting EFI motors in - and it appeared the wiring was the hard bit, but everyone raved about the off road capability.

The vitara is in very good nick and had 154k on it when the bigend spun. As I said I had it a fortnight, which made it all the more disappointing -

Is it your suggestion that I just buy one of the available motors at $990 remove the EFi head and put my Carbed head & manifold on and go from there. I removed the head complete with manifold carb, and distributor when I removed my motor, becuase I thought I may have been looking for a cracked piston, so the swap over of heads would be quick anyway?

I would appreciate your opinion on the best option noting that the vehicle is in good nick, it will not be flogged and it was worth $4k a fortnight ago! It is not our daily driver, it was to be a recreational use vehicle.

[royce]

I am not saying that injection is no good, I have an injected vit and its great

I am saying I wouldnt convert a carby one, on a sierra you are adapting a loom and making a lot of stuff up that some people get right, some people not so right, on a vit you have the option of it all being factory, there is no way you can make a carb one injected cheaper and doing a better job than the factory did

by the time you buy an engine, full wiring loom, tank, high pressure lines, all the little bits that are different you will have spent more than you would of by losing money selling yours and buying another

are there any carby swift bottom ends around where you are? that might be an option to get you going

[steak_knife]

No.







Yes.


Listen to Royce, he know's stuff

[Derek66]

Okay, it will go back to being carbed, I travelled up the North West today and picked up the block Bron5on had lying in his shed, I will pull that apart and see if I can salvage the block and crank, and then start again.

The motor that had the broken bolts etc that I put in the picture on the othe page was available to me with a loom and everything else for $450- but that had the suspect block and crank from impact damage.

For the amount of work the vehicle will do the advice about remiaining with the carb makes sense.

Just before my motor expired I had some odd occurences, which I will have to try and nut out, when I turned the headlights on the idle increased to 2500, I noticed if I turned the lights of, but then turned the steering wheel there was an increase in revs. This is odd and I hope it is gone when I put this all back together.

Thank you for the information and assistance provided through the forum, it has been magic. Hopefully, it will all go well from here, I will post the upshot of it later - I hope

Regards

[bron5on]

Is it power steer? If so the carby will automatically "idle up" when it senses steering input. Same too in the case of the lights being switched on. 2500 rpm is a bit high though i would think. My sierra (when it had the original carbied 1.3) used to idle at 800 then pick up to around 950 when the lights were switched on. In short the idle increasing is normal, it just shouldn't be that much. Not real familiar with the workings of the carby or how the idle up is actuated but someone on here will know. There should be a few threads on here regarding idle problems. They're not uncommon. BTW, hope the block turns out ok! Cheers!

[royce]

yeah the idle up is normal, infact its rare that its still working and is a simple adjustment to reset it to where you want