[thompson_2986]

Hi every one,

I wanted to make a subject about RUF or half RUF that everybody could look at and then maybe it could make its way to the tech section. So a basically RUF for dummy type of thing, instead of searching for hours.

I'm an accountant and yes I do get dirty working on my zuks but there are something’s that I would like to mod on the zuks but I need good directions and pics, half RUF is one of them.

My zuks is a WT ’93 sierra with 30inch Federal MT, 2inch BL, 2inch extended Shackles, Fairmont amp and 12ich thermo fan. I have the commo/hiace shocks and extended brake lines sitting at home.

So if everybody who has done either one of these mods can you please send detailed pics and tell me how to approach it.

Ideally this is what I want or something like this from rocky road:
http://www.rocky-road.com/ruf.html
But isn't worth considering because would kill me in dollars for shipping.


Cheers

Tom

[want33s]

Have a look through my build thread.. or Alex's
"Half RUF" Basically you just redrill the rear perch and run 100mm shackles.

[thompson_2986]

Had a look through your build thread Want33s and the there is a section that I'm guessing has the information that i want but can't see it because it's all black. This is about half way down on your 1st page.

Where abouts do I drill the rear perch in relation to the normal hole??

[want33s]

Mine is a 1.0 NT chassis and I drilled 20mm back & 20mm up. Your WT is a different shape and you won't have enough meat if you redrill like I have...



Alex achieved the same result by removing the perch and turning it around then welding it back on.

[Geepee]

http://auszookers.com/index.php?name=Fo ... pic&t=4269

This is Alex's build

[v.w.dave]

on a W/T if you go back 20mm and up 10mm it works just fine I have mine like that and have helped 2 others do the same. Also I have found that if you run 2" ext. shackles on the front 2" lifted springs on the rear with standerd length shackles on the rear it will sit flat and give you great flex.

[mika]

RUF- some comments

I'm looking to do a full ruf aswell so any more info will be great

[thompson_2986]

v.w.dave do you any pics?? or could you take some?

[zooker]

Heres a link to my RUF thread using suzuki carry van rear springs
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... ry+springs

[v.w.dave]

mine are exactly like zookers. my shackles are a little lokger and I have standard rears not carrys. works out the same though

[MrRocky]

i havent redrilled mine at all, i used 2" lifted rears and 2" boomerang shackles, but removed 2 of the leafs so theres only 3 in the pack now.
Dont forget you may need to add a front tailshaft spacer so the slip yoke dont fall out when flexed up. Longer shock mounts are also needed to get the full benifit of the extra flex. On road rides alot better as well.

[thompson_2986]

Are people measuring from the old hole center or the edge??

Zooker i really like those carry van springs. What model are they from??

[want33s]

MrRocky wrote:

i
Dont forget you may need to add a front tailshaft spacer so the slip yoke dont fall out when flexed up.....

No you won't... As the diff drops, the slip joint closes up, not opens.
It swings in an arc off the rear bush.

[zooker]

thompson_2986 wrote:

Are people measuring from the old hole center or the edge??

Zooker i really like those carry van springs. What model are they from??

An old one

[Red89]

want33s wrote:

MrRocky wrote:

i
Dont forget you may need to add a front tailshaft spacer so the slip yoke dont fall out when flexed up.....

No you won't... As the diff drops, the slip joint closes up, not opens.
It swings in an arc off the rear bush.

How ever on flat ground if the diff has moved far enough forward you may be running on the end of the spline which will tend to destroy the end of it.

[zooker]

Red89 wrote:

want33s wrote:

MrRocky wrote:

i
Dont forget you may need to add a front tailshaft spacer so the slip yoke dont fall out when flexed up.....

No you won't... As the diff drops, the slip joint closes up, not opens.
It swings in an arc off the rear bush.

How ever on flat ground if the diff has moved far enough forward you may be running on the end of the spline which will tend to destroy the end of it.

I had my front diff about an inch forward of stock with the carry rear springs up front and I still had plenty of spline left. I actually bought a .75" driveshaft spacer but I couldnt fit it in else the shaft would have bottomed out.

[eldo]

simple question guys, im thinking of doing a half RUF soon, do i need to move the shock mount?

[Moph]

eldo wrote:

simple question guys, im thinking of doing a half RUF soon, do i need to move the shock mount?

Simple answer - no you don't, unless you move the front diff forward so much that the shock binds on the mount (normally okay up to 1"). You may find though if you use the stock mount that you can't actually fit a long enough shock in there to use all the articulation you've achieved via the RUF.

Check my thread re shocks for RUF here. I didn't want to move / replace the shock mount because I don't have the fab skills or spare cash to get it done. So I worked with the shock mount and *for my particular zook* found that I could fit a new shock in the standard mount that would provide for all the travel I gained out of the RUF. This is not necessarily the case for every car though and you really need to cross it up without shocks once you've done RUF to work out exactly what shock length you need, and whether you can achieve that with the stock mount and/or bumpstop extensions.

Hope that helps

[eldo]

well since i have a lwb i dont want to stretch it out much more, using the specs for the springs i should have the front diff moved forward on a standard rear leaf by about 35mm. fronts are 470mm to centre and rears are 505mm. i also have to use an extended shackle, correct?
from what i have read its also best to have a near verticle shackle angle when not flexing, also moving rear mounts back will help with the 35mm forward position, hopefully making it more like 15-20mm. anyone have a link to a perfect example of a half ruf done the right way where shackle angles and rear monts are all done perfect?

[Moph]

I plated mine because I wanted to extend the rear mount further back than it could be drilled, to keep the diff closer to the centre of the spring with the 1" diff relocation I wanted. Here is the template I used"



You definitely don't want shackle angle to be near vertical when not flexing. This would mean you had bugger all parts of nothing in terms of droop (because the shackle is already near vertical). The greatest droop comes from having the shackle near horizontal, but then the ride will be really harsh over bumps and the shackle will likely invert.

I read up on it and found the general consensus was 45-50 degrees measured from the vertical. I aimed for 50 degrees (see below) and that's about exactly what I ended up with using 100mm eye to eye shackles (30mm longer than standard).





Flexed up shackle angle is now like this:



More info and pics in my build thread. Not the 'perfect' RUF you're looking for but should give you some ideas.

[JrZook]

Moph wrote:

Flexed up shackle angle is now like this:

Loving the flex limiting strap there

[Moph]

Haha yup good isn't it? Actually still had a slight amount of play in it but will be replaced before the Zook sees any use.

[lukes_89]

thats why im getting 5" extended brake lines by the looks of that line you could probably play a song on it haha

[TZAR]

lukes_89 wrote:

thats why im getting 5" extended brake lines by the looks of that line you could probably play a song on it haha

just get swift or vitara ones any where up to three times longer

[tanshi]

i use hyundai excel lines. 6 inches longer and have a protective spring to stop them wearing through accidently

[Moph]

I want to keep them as short as possible though ... longer lines = spongier brake pedal and poorer braking response. Might have a look for some new KE70 Corolla rears / Swift fronts which apparently fit straight up and are 4" longer. Would prefer 2" extended though...

[S13RR4]

want33s wrote:

Have a look through my build thread.. or Alex's
"Half RUF" Basically you just redrill the rear perch and run 100mm shackles.

does doing this move the diff at all??
or is that why your redrilling it backwards?? to move the diff to original position??

[alex]

S13RR4 wrote:

want33s wrote:

Have a look through my build thread.. or Alex's
"Half RUF" Basically you just redrill the rear perch and run 100mm shackles.

does doing this move the diff at all??
or is that why your redrilling it backwards?? to move the diff to original position??

the diff will move forward a lil depends on how far you move the hole backwards . you change the rear mount to stop the diff going too much forward

[S13RR4]

alex wrote:

S13RR4 wrote:

want33s wrote:

Have a look through my build thread.. or Alex's
"Half RUF" Basically you just redrill the rear perch and run 100mm shackles.

does doing this move the diff at all??
or is that why your redrilling it backwards?? to move the diff to original position??

the diff will move forward a lil depends on how far you move the hole backwards . you change the rear mount to stop the diff going too much forward

ok cool, I want to do a RUF when I lift my sierra for the extra flex and ride comfort but dont need to clear bigger tyres so was hopping to do it without moving the diff cause I dont wanna create other problems

[tanshi]

i have never found an issuse with brakeing. can still pretty much stand it on its nose at full pedall on 33s