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Post Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 7:39 am 
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Hey guys a few questions for the experts.

Installed a Locker the other day to the exact instructions in the manual (well I'm 99.9% sure I did), got a diff guy to set up all the pre load and back lash. He told me the diff was pretty worn and that the teeth would not even mark the paint they were that bad but never the less he set it up best he could.
So I drive up to Wombat today to test it out. Seemed to click and bang all they way up in exactly the same fashion desdcribed on the forum.
I found a nice little skid pan type area and decided to test it out in 2 wheel drive.
Done a couple good donuts then seemed to just start single spinningand clickin its head off. Could not get it to lock at all. I drove all day and it pretty much just single spun the whole time with a few instances where it did lock up for about a few seconds. Mind you this was in very loose slippery mud.
Could hardly take off in 2wd without it clickin like crazy. In 4wd it would still click but no where near as bad as in 2wd.

Then towards the end of the day just after I pulled over to inspect the car I noticed that 2 of the rear drum brake bolts had stripped off and the other two were loose. Fixed them all up but the locker still wasn't any better. Not sure if the lack off locking or all the clicking sheered the bolts off but it seems that way to me. I know 100% I did the bolts back up the other day.

I got home just before and drove to a spot where I done some slow full lock u turns and going right the right(inside wheel) slip/grips like a mini spool so I assume thats working right. When I do a left U turn the left(inside wheel) does not slip/grip it just rolls like an open wheeler but clicks off it's head.

Now- Could the fact that the diff teeth are all worn and the settings(backlash) are shit possibly be the reason the locker isn't working like it should? Or is there a possiblilty that I installed the locker wrong? I know I have put the little double springs in the locker and pins in the right holes. I put the shims on the back of the couplers. The only thing which I thought of just before was I didn't grease the bearings on the diff but I though that the oil would lubricate those?


Has anyone got an idea on what could be my problem?

Cheers in advance guys


Christian

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Post Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 9:11 am 
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the diff itself will have very little to do with the way those crappy lockers work.

when you put the locker in the carrier what was the feeler gauge measurement to determine the shim thickness required for the sidegears?


you don't just slap the shims back in, all the components must be measured to determine the correct thickness to use, as each side may vary. is it the model with couplers or without?


even after it is simmed right 6 months or so down the track when the shims wear it will start doing it again. something they don't tell you when you purchase one!

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Post Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 11:51 am 
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Ah well that makes sense.

I did reuse the origianl shims and I did notice some small play in it but thought it would be fine. Silly me hey.

I'll get onto it straight away as I devistated by todays performance or lack off I should say. It ran better with the open wheel centre, although when it did lock man was it sweet.


Thanks Joeblow

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 1:46 am 
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I installed my lockrite using only a hammer! (ok maybe some other tools) Anyway, I didn't measure/check shit and I've had no dramas.

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 5:29 am 
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Oh you suck! Tell me your secret!!!

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 7:16 am 
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TUFY wrote:
Oh you suck! Tell me your secret!!!


Live's in Qld, it's nice up ere.. :P

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 4:58 am 
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Lol na I'll be right,

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 17, 2010 10:27 am 
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are you guys talking about the LOKKA brand? i was just reading their spiel about how wonderful they are, would appreciate some real world truths and stories about them

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