[lauby]

I have this cage and a couple of questions.





As you can see, it's a bit higher than the cab roof. Previous owner mentioned is was done this high
to increase the head room for rear seats, i want to modify it so the top of bar aligns with the top of cab
roof or maybe 20 to 30mm above.

The verticals have a slight curve and so do the top horizontal bars. The option of simply chopping 100mm
or so out of the verticals and welding it back to base plate is no good.

This is what i reckon has to be done. replace missing centre horizontal. Chop out the extent of red and
weld it back together.



My questions -

Do you think this amount of work is worth it ?

The green lines highlight the tight bend of the continuous hoops, i assume cutting the cage as proposed
now makes it nothing more than a very sturdy soft top frame, am i correct ?

With the mounting points along the top of the ute edge could this ever be rated as a roll cage to aid
in the rear seat mod plate ? ( notice the allowance for seat belt on the centre vertical )

no i have not been to a welder yet, looking for input here first.

Once done i'm going to get a canvas roof and zip of sides to enclose.

cheers.

[zuki]

lauby wrote:

I have this cage and a couple of questions.





As you can see, it's a bit higher than the cab roof. Previous owner mentioned is was done this high
to increase the head room for rear seats, i want to modify it so the top of bar aligns with the top of cab
roof or maybe 20 to 30mm above.

The verticals have a slight curve and so do the top horizontal bars. The option of simply chopping 100mm
or so out of the verticals and welding it back to base plate is no good.

This is what i reckon has to be done. replace missing centre horizontal. Chop out the extent of red and
weld it back together.



My questions -

Do you think this amount of work is worth it ?

The green lines highlight the tight bend of the continuous hoops, i assume cutting the cage as proposed
now makes it nothing more than a very sturdy soft top frame, am i correct ?

With the mounting points along the top of the ute edge could this ever be rated as a roll cage to aid
in the rear seat mod plate ? ( notice the allowance for seat belt on the centre vertical )

no i have not been to a welder yet, looking for input here first.

Once done i'm going to get a canvas roof and zip of sides to enclose.

cheers.

Hi,

If it were me I would do the cuts on the bottom part of the pipe and then weld the pipes back onto the flat. I think it would be way less work and probably look heaps better than where you have marked up in red.

David

[lauby]

zuki wrote:

If it were me I would do the cuts on the bottom part of the pipe and then weld the pipes back onto the flat. I think it would be way less work and probably look heaps better than where you have marked up in red.

David

The curves on the vertical mean if i cut 100mm of the bottom, it would then sit inside the ute edge. Also with the 7 bolt fixing along each side on the base, there are 2 bolt fixings to the cab - circled below. All mods has to be done above the cab roof line i reckon.

[Gwagensteve]

Whilst I wouldn't call that a "roll" cage, It's very nicely fabricated. Looking at the fit of the cage to the B pillar and the edges of the tub, I'd cut it at the bottom of the uprights, not the top as you are planning. It will look and fit fine cut at the bottom IMHO.

Steve.

PS if you want it to function as a roll cage, I'd reinforce the tub.

[Zook_Fan]

Quote:

The green lines highlight the tight bend of the continuous hoops, i assume cutting the cage as proposed
now makes it nothing more than a very sturdy soft top frame, am i correct ?

thats about all it is now. a proper cage will not mount like that, all that would be for is either roof storage or for a soft top frame. I would not trust it in a roll over

[Mick70b]

I agree with the other boys mate I would be cutting the 100mm off the bottom, much easier to re-weld to the flat surface.

Can I suggest you mark each post 100mm from the bottom and then measure across post to post to their outer edges and see if this measurement is the same as the measurements at the bottom of the posts as they sit now.

From the photos I think you will find it will still sit inside the cab, I think it will drop down near perfect to where the posts are now as the curve isn't too extreme. Then if need be redrill the holes on the front posts.

[lauby]

Mick70b wrote:

Can I suggest you mark each post 100mm from the bottom and then measure across post to post to their outer edges and see if this measurement is the same as the measurements at the bottom of the posts as they sit now.

ha, it seems i'm getting out voted here I'll mark and throw a tape over it tomorrow as suggested, cheers.

[MacDaddy]

Mick70b wrote:

I agree with the other boys mate I would be cutting the 100mm off the bottom, much easier to re-weld to the flat surface.

Can I suggest you mark each post 100mm from the bottom and then measure across post to post to their outer edges and see if this measurement is the same as the measurements at the bottom of the posts as they sit now.

From the photos I think you will find it will still sit inside the cab, I think it will drop down near perfect to where the posts are now as the curve isn't too extreme. Then if need be redrill the holes on the front posts.

And if it doesnt quite sit where the uprights are now, why not just pull/spread the uprights out a bit, i think the curve will still line up well if you did...

[lauby]

i've measured, the top bar has to drop 110mm to sit just above the cab. Also simply trimming base of uprights is no good, it will bring top corner vertically down when it should be *there ( see below pic ).



Back to plan A me thinks.

i'm off to find a guy with pipe, a hole saw, a bender, a welder, and some skill.
Recomendations for one on the gold coast appreciated, cheers.

[Fatzook]

just cut and shut it.

It looks like 32NB, so 25NB should slide up its guts. Just use a piece of the smaller pipe as an internal sleeve and plug weld it all aswell as welding the extension in. This will prevent the extension from cracking out around the welds. And if you bevel, or weld prep the ends of the pipe before welding, you should be able to linish the visable weld down so it looks as it does now.

Hope thats not too confusing.

[shep]

mate i find it best to not think about this sort of stuff. just fly into it with your grinder
and then glue it together. it allways works out fine in the end.

[Fatzook]

shep wrote:

mate i find it best to not think about this sort of stuff. just fly into it with your grinder
and then glue it together. it allways works out fine in the end.

You'd just weld a milk crate to it wouldn't you....

Dodgy bastard