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Post Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 6:40 pm 
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as above
i left at 4.15 this morning and got 15klm before the car started to loose power then it stalled. after 2 min it started again and drove 1/2 way home before happening again. restarted after a few min and drove home no worries.
all filters and plugs are 2 months old carb kit is 2 days old.
this has happened a few times before. but only on the hwy i drive 130 klm a day for work never a problem.
when the engine stops it just winds over and over not starting but if you leave it a few min it starts easy.
any ideas please?

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 6:57 pm 
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mine did this, it had a blockage in the fuel line. grab an air compressor and pull the fuel line off your carby and blow it back through, take off your fuel cap also as it might just pressurize the fuel and all come flying back at you and spill all over a hot motor.... :lol:

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 8:27 pm 
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Or your ing module.

31zook could be on it tho, I had one do the same, I just reversed the pole's on the elec fuel pump till I had the time to pull the tank out....

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 8:43 pm 
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have blown out fuel system problem still there pumps up fine new mech pump 6mths ago.
will go shopping later for coil, condenser, dizzy cap. to try and eliminate any spark issues.

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 10:14 pm 
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fucken fuck thats not a good start to ya trip mate.

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 10:20 pm 
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it has to be a fuel problem i recon. maybe the filter is a bit blocked or
there is water in your fuel. if you have a bung in your tank let a ltr or so out
and see if there is water in it.

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 10:25 pm 
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I would go for another drive and when it stops rip the coil lead off and hold it a bit away from a metal part of the block and crank it over to see if there is spark, if there isnt then it gets a bit harder to look but it might be a module

if there is spark pull the ait intake off the carb and give the throttle a squirt to see if fuel comes out, if not start looking for blockages, try removing the fuel cap to see if it goes straight up

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 10:39 pm 
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If you need anything let me know!

I have some fairly new Leads here. Carb bits, etc.

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 11:49 pm 
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new cap,rotor button,coil not running
accel pump working fine,tank drained 1 month ago
yellow spark wants to go but can not yet

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 11:56 pm 
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give the carby a few taps with a hammer around the needle and seat.

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 11:58 pm 
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Try some start-ya-bastard or similar to see if it kicks. It may have spark but is it strong enough? What fuel are you running? How much is in the tank? Does the motor have good compression? Is the timing right?

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Post Posted: Mon Jun 21, 2010 2:59 am 
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o/k it lives does 110kmh in an 80 zone loaded up.
replaced the rotor button , dizzy cap and coil.
pulled all electrical conecters apart and put them back together.
goes better now than for a long time.
thanks for all your help
will leave in the am

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Post Posted: Mon Jun 21, 2010 3:13 am 
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8)

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Post Posted: Mon Jun 21, 2010 4:49 am 
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thats a bonus. :D

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Post Posted: Mon Jun 21, 2010 9:50 am 
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possibly a blocked idel jet, change the middle two ignition leads and let it back fire a few times shuld clear it out

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Post Posted: Mon Jun 21, 2010 10:46 am 
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jacca wrote:
possibly a blocked idel jet, change the middle two ignition leads and let it back fire a few times shuld clear it out


why put your motor under such stress?? at best thats just asking for chewed out valves or setting your air filter on fire

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Post Posted: Mon Jun 21, 2010 11:49 am 
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shakes wrote:
jacca wrote:
possibly a blocked idel jet, change the middle two ignition leads and let it back fire a few times shuld clear it out


why put your motor under such stress?? at best thats just asking for chewed out valves or setting your air filter on fire


you both are equally as stupid as each other.
a blocked idle jet will not cause a car to lose power or stop while accelerating .
changing the ignition leads to cause a backfire will only bandaid the problem
crossing the leads over will not cause burnt valves , and would be very unlikely to catch the air filter on fire.

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Post Posted: Mon Jun 21, 2010 12:13 pm 
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I've seen a couple of filters on fire admitedly they were oil based ones.

I never said anything about burnt valves. ;) I have personally witnessed backfires tear off intakes, bend flapper style MAF's and even crack valves (they were already burnt out and this was just the icing on the cake, but how many 1.3's are there out there in good nick?) I have also heard story's of spun bearings/siezed motor's from a severe backfire which I would guess were more timing related than just swapping leads, but why put your motor through un-needed stress?

edit: bad spelling :oops:

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Post Posted: Mon Jun 21, 2010 1:15 pm 
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seriously dude , whos been reading you your bedtime stories.

spun bearings and seized motors are not caused by backfires , these failures occur when the film of lubrication between the engine bearings and the crankshaft are compromised by either low oil pressures or tight/excessive tolerances (or general lack of maintenance)
this is probably one of the most extreme backfires you could imagine (nsfw , swearing) caused by a 75 shot of nos going off in the intake.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kQWQnMgMvaE
nothing but the rubber intake ppe was damaged , not even the air flow meter (hot wire type) , taped the hose up and drove home.

did well over 150 runs with a 75 shot of nos , stripped the engine apart to decompress , and it was like brand new.

cracked valves occur with constant and sudden changes in combustion temps


edit : ohh yeah my oiled K&N didnt even catch on fire !

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